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Old April 27, 2009, 01:44 PM   #1
ArmedTheologian
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Aftermarket grips for a Ruger 22/45 MK III?

Does anyone have a link to shoot that will show me some options? I'm having a hard time finding anything...I don't even know if the Hogue slip-on will work or not.
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Old April 27, 2009, 02:03 PM   #2
PX4
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If it was the standard Mk III, Ruger has other grip panels for it. However, after seeing the exploded diagram for the 22/45 version of the Mk III, it looks like the grip panels are part of the frame and not replaceable. If there was any wrap around grips for it they would make the grip excessively thick.
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Old April 27, 2009, 02:04 PM   #3
ArmedTheologian
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The grip is indeed part of the frame, leading me to think that the only possible modification would be a slip-on grip. Any idea if Hogue makes one?
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Old April 27, 2009, 02:06 PM   #4
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I'm thinking that this is the only thing I can try.


Thought I'd see if anyone else knew anything I didn't.
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Old April 27, 2009, 03:36 PM   #5
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You may want to run a search on the different forums around here. It seems to me that someone had a link to an instructional mod where someone cut the factory grips off, and tapped out some holes in the frame, allowing 1911 style grips to be used on it. Don't know if that's your cup of tea or not, but it could be informative.

FWIW the factory grips are pretty darn thin, so a slip-on should work just fine. Of course, my MK III Target sports a fat daddy Hogue grip with a thumb rest, so I guess thin is up to interpretation.
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Old April 27, 2009, 05:51 PM   #6
chris in va
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I just used a Hogue slip on grip for my MkIII 22/45. Not sure why Ruger went so thin on the newer models compared to the MkII version.
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Old May 3, 2009, 02:42 PM   #7
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I think she turned out just fine...
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Old May 6, 2009, 05:42 PM   #8
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I just got in today a Houge Handall grip sleeve. It fits OK. Kinda loose around the back of the grip but I can live with it. I can't believe they molded in those grips when they advertise it as a 22/45. How much more would it have taken to just insert bushings so we could use 1911 type grips? And it is so thin in the grip area, what's up with that? I almost wish I had gotten a regular MKIII now.

I have seen write ups about folks using a dremel tool to remove those molded in grips and install grip bushings. Anyone know of someone who does this for others?

http://www.spokanister.net/Guns_22-45_Grip_Mod.html
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Last edited by Stargazer; May 6, 2009 at 05:54 PM.
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Old July 9, 2009, 09:13 PM   #9
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I got a set from teachtech, a member here that makes overlay grips for the22/45. He now has rubberized grips and they are a perfect balance of strength with the rubber feel. Almost feels like a set of Pachmyer(sp) rubber grips. Right now I have them held on with double sided sticky tape because I can not bring myself to take them off! It will be the weekend before I can tap and drill the frame. These pixs show the grips held on with the tape, when the screws are installed it will snug up to the frame tighter.









I got some base pads too. This guy actually molded totally new floor "plates" that have a good extension to them. Now the mag sets way easier and extracts way easier. Now the pistol feels like a real pistol.
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Old July 9, 2009, 10:26 PM   #10
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I modded a MkII 22/45 back in 2000 to take a set of 1911 panels. I ground the original serations off the grips and tapped the frame to take screws.

It's a little rough around the top of the grip panels, where the frame widens, but feels much nicer than the original grip.

Also ground down the "euronipple" that Ruger put on the original 22/45 trigger guard
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Old August 2, 2009, 10:01 PM   #11
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anything new on this post question?

anything factory available yet, i don't want to go cutting into my ruger! I am not skilled enough to do this.
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Old August 2, 2009, 10:18 PM   #12
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The overlay grips can be glued on with contact cement, no drilling or dremeling whatsoever. Most radius the bottom a little bit on the lower back sides so it contours with the frame better and isn't so sharp. That has been done with a new emory board, a file really isn't even required. You can order fake screws to glue into the screw cavities and it looks like it is real.

Specify rubber covered if you want that otherwise they come hard plastic. He has many colors to choose from.

I went ahead and drilled and tapped the holes for 8x32 screws and I used some thin strips of double sided sticky foam tape under the grips to aid in retention and to cushion somewhat. Some are using automotive double sided foam tape that holds emblems on. That stuff is almost permenant. I am going to get some of this super duper foam double sided automotive tape and the next time the grips are off I will replace that standard white sticky tape with the automotive stuff.

Just send this guy an email and ask questions for options. Nice guy to deal with.

Dominic.Notaro@csinet.net
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Old August 2, 2009, 11:40 PM   #13
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I wish someone would start doing a service for these. I'd love to get my 22/45 tapped and have a set of grips put on, Stargazer's Ruger looks SWEET. Im sure it wouldnt even cost that much either if someone did offer the service. I'm just not confident enough to try it myself, and i'd rather someone else be liable for the repairs if something went wrong.
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Old August 3, 2009, 09:51 PM   #14
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I bought teachtech's grips in powder blue and the magazine bumpers too. I like them and the price is unbeatable! A little sanding to finish up the rough edges and you are good to go. +1
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Old August 13, 2009, 12:58 PM   #15
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How thick is the plastic the screw threads into?

Could something like these be glued into place?

Rivet Nut, Anchor Nut
http://www.mcmaster.com/#anchor-nuts/=3683rf


Weld Nut
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90596a009/=3680gj


Tee Nut, T-Nut, Threaded Insert
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90598a041/=36857n
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