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Old April 3, 2009, 10:18 PM   #1
taylo
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Join Date: March 29, 2009
Posts: 18
Scope Bases for a Marlin 1895G - Leupold 1x4

I am new here. Thanks again for all the great healp!

I purchased a Marlin 1895G 45-70 Guide Gun. I purchased a Leupold VX-II 1x4x20mm foir the gun. I have this same model scope on a shotgun and I love it. SO I figured I would stick one on this too. I see a few on here with the same set-up.

The rifle will come tapped for the scope mount and I would really like to do it myself. I know I may waster a few rounds but that is fine with me if I can do it myself.

I need to know and/or looking for suggestions for the bases. I think the way to go is with a low mount. Many seem to like the 1895G with a low mount and it seems logical.

So what kind of bases do I need/want? ANy other tips are more than welcome and thanks again.

Rob
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Old April 4, 2009, 03:23 PM   #2
PetahW
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Join Date: September 19, 2008
Posts: 4,679
I followed the K.I.S.S. principle when I scoped my Guide gun, and stuck with what's long been the gold standard for Marlin rifles - A one-piece Weaver #63B rail with a set of low Weaver rings.

They are in just about any supplier's catalog, like MidwayUSA or Brownell's - as fitting Marlin 336's.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=189486

.

Last edited by PetahW; April 4, 2009 at 03:31 PM.
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Old April 4, 2009, 04:09 PM   #3
taylo
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You rock Petah!
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Old April 5, 2009, 08:50 AM   #4
PetahW
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Join Date: September 19, 2008
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Since it sounds like this might be your first shot (pun intended) at scope mounting, there's a few points worth considering.

After removing the filler/plug screws from the mount locations - TRY every screw in it's mounting hole !

IOW, dry-mount the base first, and make sure that no screw tip protrudes through the action top to impede bolt operation. (If one/more does, grind/file it a little shorter)
It's best done with the bolt removed.

The front screw holes are blind, IIRC - due to the barrel threads below, and those screws usually need shortening.

All screw testing is done via inserting one screw at a time only, snugging it, and trying to wriggle the scope base.

If the base is loose with the one screw tight, the screw needs shortening until it holds the base snug.

When one's fixed, remove it, and proceed to the next screw for a repeat, until the entire base fits snugly.

After screw fitment, remove the base/screws, and de-grease all screw threads (screws AND receiver), plus the top of the receiver & bottom of the base with laq thinner.
Use a drop of blue-colored Loc-Tite on each screw thread, and re-install the base/screws tightly with a properly fitting screwdriver.

When setting the scope & rings, first mount only the lower ring halves on the base.

Before tightening the ring half to the base, apply finger pressure, to bias the front ring towards the muzzle end of it's mounting tolerance/play, and the rear ring towards the butt end.

Tighten the rings in those extended positions, and they will return to very close to the same zero if later removed with the scope installed in them.
Do not loc-Tite the ring-to-base sttachment screw(s).

Lay your scope in the lower ring half, and check for a non-binding ring alignment, and good eye relief (noting fore/aft position) while manually holding the scope in place.

Once it's good to go, install the ring top halves, also Loc-Tite-ing the screw threads - adjusting the reticle for plumb while keeping the previous eye relief notation in mind.

Good Luck on your "project".

.
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