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Old March 15, 2009, 11:51 AM   #1
Lavid2002
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Broken Rifle, Cannot remove from bedding material.

I just bedded my 10/22 and tried to get it out of the bedding material. When I gabe it a couple wacks on the BBL with a rubber mallet it didnt budge So I figured I should get a better place to wack at. The trigger guard seemed like it would pop the action right out, but it just broke into 3 peices. I feel like such an idiot how can I get this rifle out of the bedding material?

-Dave
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Old March 15, 2009, 12:06 PM   #2
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I think its in here forever : ( Im really stressing this
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Old March 15, 2009, 12:26 PM   #3
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If the problem is due to an insufficiency of bedding release agent applied to the metal, find a chest freezer. Leave the rifle in overnight. The metal will often contract enough that the adhesion to the bedding material is weakened or broken.

If somehow you created a mechanical lock, e.g., by not using modeling clay to keep the bedding material out of any holes or slots or etc., causing the material to infiltrate those voids, the metal may be locked in place so that it will never come out. The only remedy is to destroy the stock.

Regards,

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Old March 15, 2009, 12:46 PM   #4
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Rifle is out, I worked screwdrivers down the BBL in increments intil it slid out. It didnt "crack" out like all the other videos. IT kind of gewed out. There is epoxy on the action, BBL, etc... Big mess. Maybe I didnt use a good epoxy?
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Old March 15, 2009, 12:56 PM   #5
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My dad loves using epoxy in projects and swears by and exclusively uses the west system... sounds like one component may have "expired" or not enuff hardener. The west system uses "calibrated" pumps for each component.
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Old March 15, 2009, 01:42 PM   #6
Lavid2002
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Once I get this thing cleaned up ill try again witha better release agent and a different epoxy. Until then....this crap is everywhere. I can sand it off the stock, but how can I get it off the action without harming th finish? Any fun chemicals available?
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Old March 15, 2009, 01:54 PM   #7
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been there done that use Marine tex for bedding and lots of kiwi nuetral shoe polish for release agent visit Rimfire central for more advice on bedding the 10/22

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Old March 15, 2009, 01:59 PM   #8
hogdogs
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Vinegar is the solvent for skin clean up, acetone may be a bit better and doesn't melt most plastic.
will be worth a try on the metal for sure. My father said a hard plastic spatula may help on the metal as the epoxy won't stick and easily cleaned up as you go...
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Old March 15, 2009, 02:00 PM   #9
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http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
This is a liquid not paste epoxy.
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Old March 15, 2009, 02:04 PM   #10
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He also said he uses original style aqua net hairspray. And his buddy uses honey {as a release agent}
Brent

Last edited by hogdogs; March 15, 2009 at 02:16 PM. Reason: forgot {}
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Old March 15, 2009, 02:14 PM   #11
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Get a piece of hard plastic, like thick plexiglass. Shape it into a chisel and start chipping

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Old March 15, 2009, 02:28 PM   #12
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Sweet I never thought of using plastic and plexiglass. DUH Thanks guys! I also found a new trigger guard at brownells.
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Old March 15, 2009, 06:00 PM   #13
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I got a kit from Acraglas around here somewhere that has all the stuff in it including release agent. Tell me, though, what exactly is the benefit from bedding a common .22 rimfire rifle like the Ruger, unless the stock is actually a bad loose fit? Something proven.
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Old March 15, 2009, 07:20 PM   #14
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Hairspray will work as a release agent, as it's PVA (polyvinyl alcohol), which is what most release agents are.

You're probably better off buying some real release agent and spraying it with an airbrush, though you can apply it with an old t-shirt. You want it to build up a film.

When I bedded actions, I used plain old paste wax. You can tape over any holes (like, say, the ones in the sides of 10/22 actions and trigger groups) before you start, so the epoxy wont flow in.

If you decide to use something like West Systems, you can add something like cabosil/fumed silica to thicken it. You should try sanding this stuff once the epoxy kicks- it's like sanding a rock. The long hairs in cabosil is the same stuff in asbestos, but it it really makes epoxy incredibly strong.

If your epoxy comes out gummy, you probably got the mix ratio a little wrong. Follow the manufacturers directions- does it need a 4-to-1 by volume mix, a 25% by weight, etc? A cheap digital scale is always a good idea. Mixing cups are cheap at your local composites store- I use Tap Plastics, but you probably have something similar where you live.

You can gouge out gummy epoxy and clean the area with solvent, or Goof Off, and try again. I've definitely been there.
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Old March 15, 2009, 09:08 PM   #15
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Being born anal about such things...i use about ten coats of the release agent from acra glas. Still tight.
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Old March 15, 2009, 09:36 PM   #16
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I don't recall the brand,but I found an aircraft paint stripper that said it disolved epoxy paint.

Someone asked me fit a slightly different bbl to a forend that had been glassed.I tried it,and it removed the accraglas from the wood.
I would assume if it is for aircraft,the aluminum would be safe.It will likely take more than one application,you only get so much penetration
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Old March 15, 2009, 11:34 PM   #17
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I second the deep freeze. The colder the better, the longer the better.

If you can't find a deep freeze that will work, see if you can find a couple of pounds of dry ice.

I've seen several rifles pulled out of bedding material that way.
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Old March 16, 2009, 07:16 PM   #18
Lavid2002
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I went to the store and bought some aircraft paint stripper. Klean-strip Aircraft Remover. Took about three coats but a brass wire brush, and a pleziglass scraper did the job. I then hit my action with some 1,000 grit and got it real shiny :P As for the stock, I sanded it down and beleive it or not it holds the rifle pretty tight still. I think ill keep it the way it is. I have 2 10/22 stocks so ill now bed the other one...then ill move on to my savage.

Quote:
Tell me, though, what exactly is the benefit from bedding a common .22 rimfire rifle like the Ruger, unless the stock is actually a bad loose fit? Something proven.
Practice makes perfect and I would MUCH rather mess up on my 250$ 10/22 than my 1,200 savage. Also....its cold and rainy here....why not :P it will add some weight to my .22 and benifit me with the off-hand. Also it will eliminate play in my trigger guard assembly from side to side.
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Old March 17, 2009, 01:38 PM   #19
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If you bedded the barrel channel, take that out too. You bed the action out to under the chamber area of the barrel only.
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Old March 17, 2009, 01:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
If you bedded the barrel channel, take that out too. You bed the action out to under the chamber area of the barrel only.
I'd shoot it with the bedding 'fore I removed it from the channel. Sometimes the full bedded barrel shoots very well.
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Old March 17, 2009, 01:59 PM   #21
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Rubbing alcohol (the stronger, the better) will effectively dissolve and remove uncured epoxy.
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Old March 17, 2009, 02:46 PM   #22
hardhit
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Here's a good article on rifle bedding using Devcon 10110 and Kiwi shoe polish as the release agent.

www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
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Old March 17, 2009, 03:49 PM   #23
brickeyee
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The solvent for cured epoxy is MEK.

We use it for removing IC packages, dissolving PC boards, examining epoxy dipped components, etc.

It can take some time, and is more effective if heated (no flames though).
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Old March 17, 2009, 04:06 PM   #24
Lavid2002
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Quote:
I'd shoot it with the bedding 'fore I removed it from the channel. Sometimes the full bedded barrel shoots very well.
Ill slap it in the fiberforce stock I have, shoot a group at 50 yards, then slap it in the stock ive been working on and shoot a group. The BBL is now floated, I think it will help.

As far as asthetics go, Ive been sanding and cutting and drilling and painting this stock and this rifle is really starting to some allong. Ill post a picture in a day or so. There wont be a trigger group but youll get the general Idea :P
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Old March 17, 2009, 08:22 PM   #25
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Not always...

Quote:
If you bedded the barrel channel, take that out too. You bed the action out to under the chamber area of the barrel only.
Granted, that's a good rule of thumb for centerfire rifles and rifles with steel receivers and threaded-in barrels.

Depending on how this particular 10/22 is configured, however, you may want to support more than the typical 1" of barrel chamber end that is normally bedded.

Why?

Because with a 10/22, the receiver is aluminum, and the barrel shank is held into the receiver's front end by nothing more than a wedge and two allen bolts. It's an interference fit, not threaded, and susceptible to a lot of flexing and subsequent slop.

Hanging the weight of a free-floated barrel from a 10/22's bedded aluminum receiver is not conducive to accuracy or longevity. You're looking for an extra measure of stability when glass-bedding a rifle, and the 10/22 requires a bit of extra vigilance.

When the practice of hanging heavy, large diameter target barrels on Ruger 10/22s began in earnest several years ago, this became a topic of concern. There were several solutions, some of which are adding a second barrel bedding point in the forend, bedding the entire barrel, etc.

I went with the latter on all my 10/22 conversions. I settled on free-floating the receiver, bedding the trigger group, and bedding the barrel the entire length of the stock's barrel channel. The idea behind this approach is that the flexible aluminum receiver is simply a raceway for the blowback bolt to ride back and forth in, and not particularly structural in the general 10/22 scheme of things. True, it's attached to the barrel, but doesn't add as much to the accuracy equation as does the barrel itself, which I consider the backbone of the popular Ruger rimfire.

Bedding the barrel full-length has its own problems, particularly if it's not attached to a synthetic or laminated stock, which are less prone to warpage or expansion/contraction with changing temperature and humidity. My preference is heavy laminated stocks, so I'm not worried about lack of stability. I use Devcon Marine Epoxy, with either powdered aluminum or stainless steel added. Brownell's Acraglas is also a fine product for the job.

It's not a bad idea to peruse the www.rimfirecentral.com forum, and see what works and what doesn't. Chances are that folks there have tried darned near everything.

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