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Old February 8, 2009, 09:18 PM   #1
Rokky
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Raven Arms MP 25 Auto

I have a Raven Arms MP 25 auto and would like to know where I can find out when this gun was manufactured. It is classed as the "Old Model" and it is chrome, walnut grips, and has the slide saftey rather then the up and down saftey. It has a 6 digit serial number. I understand that the early models were pot metal and the later models were steel. I have no idea what this gun in made of.
Thanks.
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Old February 8, 2009, 09:30 PM   #2
Tommy Vercetti
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Wikipedia has everything you'd ever want to know about it and more
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Old February 8, 2009, 09:34 PM   #3
Johnc
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A good place to start may be Phoenix arms. I believe they bought what remained of Raven.

http://phoenix-arms.com/
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Old February 9, 2009, 12:01 AM   #4
Rokky
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Raven MP 25

Johnc
I checked the Phoenix Arms website and only their home page comes up. Cannot bring up therir contacts page or products.
I wonder if they are out of business also?
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Old February 9, 2009, 12:02 AM   #5
Rokky
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Raven MP 25

Tommy,
I will check it out.
Thanks.
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Old February 9, 2009, 12:23 AM   #6
Rokky
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Raven MP 25

No luck on Wikipdedia.
I'm mainly interested in finding out if my gun is pot metal or not.
If I could find a production list with the serial number layout it might give me an idea.
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Old February 9, 2009, 01:57 AM   #7
luvsasmith
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I do believe it is made of some sort of less than standard quality firearm metal.
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Old February 9, 2009, 02:29 AM   #8
laytonj1
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If it's steel a magnet will stick to it. If it's zinc, it won't.
Davis (same line as Raven and Jennings) used Zinc for their slides IIRC.

Jim
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Old February 9, 2009, 09:22 AM   #9
martin08
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All you ever wanted to know about Ravens and even some stuff you don't want to know.
http://www.bryco-jennings-jimenezarm...forum.php?f=19

I own three Ravens of the type (slide safety) you describe. They are accurate, fun to shoot and fully reliable little guns. That being said, I would not stake my life upon any of them. I do not trust the sear/internal firing pin/safety set up enough to carry with one in the pipe. The safety is to easily moved from a pocket or holster carry, and the firing pin can be easily released with a moderate jolt from a drop. But fun to shoot? Heck yes! Fishing tackle box backup? Most certainly. It won't rust.

The Zamak (zink alloy) frames and slides are not a major concern for cracking on this .25acp gun compared to similarly manufactured .380's and 9mm's such as the Davis, Cobra, Jennings and Lorcin. The Raven just isn't powerful enough to strain its frame. And the cromed slide models are smooth operators.

It's a Saturday Night Special. Google "Ring of fire guns" and you'll get load of anti's views. Made in Kalli before being sold to Phoenix Arms.
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Old February 9, 2009, 05:59 PM   #10
Rokky
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MP 25

Thanks Martin,

Your right, I have heard this gun was a disaster with walnut hand grips.
But after field stripping it and giving it a good cleaning I found it to be a slick little gun.
As I mentioned previously my serial# is 6 digits and most I have seen are 7 digits.
This leads me to believe I have an older gun whether that's good or bad I don't know.
They say some were pot metal, but I don't think my is. it just doesn't feel that way.
one thing that has been mentioned is the frequency of broken firing pins.
I found a place that sells firing pins for the MP 25 and they are reproductions made of steel.
Is that better then the original?
Should I buy a spare or two, or any other parts like springs, extractor pin, etc?
I will check out the website you listed and thanks.
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Old February 9, 2009, 06:31 PM   #11
martin08
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Though they may feel heavy, Rokky, they're still made of zinc alloy. And I wouldn't worry much about stocking up on spare parts unless you lose or break one. They are actually quite tough and many thousands are out there for parts availability.

I just have fun with them - for as long as I can afford $18 per box!
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Old February 9, 2009, 06:52 PM   #12
Rokky
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I did check out: http://www.bryco-jennings-jimenezarm...forum.php?f=19 and that is a great place for Raven information. Thanks.
I had previously found parts on Gun Parts Corp and there firing pins are reproductions at a little over $15. plus shipping. Also, I to found the safety on mine, which is the slide type to be less then trustworthy.
The gun I got was a gift and never used. It was a little stiff until I cleaned the gun and now it works good, maybe to good.
I would never carry the gun with one in the chamber.
The safety is just to easy to move.
When I strip cleaned the gun I did not break down the trigger assembly.
Is this tricky?
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Old February 9, 2009, 08:39 PM   #13
Tom2
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Dude, you do not want to fully disassemble a Raven pistol, IMO. Flush it out with spray gun cleaner or something. I still have my Raven from 1983, but the reason I have not sold it is because the money I would make probably would not buy me a good box of premium ammo these days. It shoots and works so I just set on it. Actually, if there is a gun buyback, I will strip off the resaleable pieces and take the 50 bucks for the vulture picked carcass. If you have problems with malfunctions ever, try a new mag. The mag springs can go weak and cause feeding problems. And new mags are like 5 bucks or something. Yes you can do the magnet check on the frame and see what it is made of. You only have two choices, apparently. Don't use a magnet near the barrel as the barrel is a steel liner in the alloy frame and the magnet might stick to the barrel shroud due to the steel core anyway. I think it is assembled with pins. Steel pins in zinc alloy could be hammered out, but the soft metal might make for a loose fit when you reinsert them. Not worth the trouble to take apart unless the gun is broken, you can get parts for a dollar or so, and you have nothing better to do.
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Old February 10, 2009, 07:51 AM   #14
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The trigger assembly is a pretty simple mechanism to clean without taking out and can be accessed easily through mag well with a spray cleaner equipped with a straw nozzle. The pin does come out easily and it's not hard to re-align and re-pin, but the soft metal might have to be peened to keep it held in place as mentioned by Tom2.

To thoroughly clean, you might remove the right grip and slide, depress the sear with your thumb, and pop off the sear cam on the upper rear of the frame. A little sanding on the under side of the cam arms can make the trigger action feel much smoother and lighter. Watch for the spring under the sear!

The sear can also be polished a little on the bore surfaces only and the bore in the frame can be swabbed out with a Q-tip. Please don't clip the sear spring or polish the the flat surface of the sear, or you may get an unwanted slamfire.

All in all, it's an easy gun to strip and re-assemble. Keep her clean and have fun!
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