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Old August 21, 2016, 11:19 PM   #1
Metal god
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Savage model 99 take down trigger . Please help

Hello . I have a model 99 250/3000 ( 250 Savage )that I believe was manufactured in the early 1900's , somewhere in the teens . It's very used lets say . It's stock has been broken and repaired as well as someone drilled holes in the receiver for a scope mount with what looks like a hand drill . So although old and kinda cool . Not really worth much .






My issue is I believe the trigger is worn out . My cheep trigger pull gauge says it's at about 1 pound . That seemed way to light for a trigger pull of that type of firearm . So I took it to a local gunsmith here in San Diego and he confirmed it's right around one pound . I asked him to do what he could to get it up to at least 3 pounds and I'd prefer 4 pounds . He said He'll take a look and see what he can do . That was 19 months ago and he's still not got around to it . At the time I knew he was very busy and understood it could take as much as a year to complete . Now that we're pushing 2 years I'm going on Thursday to pick it back up .

This brings me to my question . What do I need to do and or get to give this firearm a stonger trigger pull . I have some mechanical aptitude so if I could I'd like to give it a try and fix it my self . How ever if you guys feel the firearm is rather complex or I'll need some high end specialty tools . I'll just take it to another gun smith .

Any help or ideas is appreciated

Thanks Metal
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Old August 22, 2016, 08:57 AM   #2
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There's a couple websites with serial numbers. According to savage99, yours was 1918/1919. Given the damage done be the previous owner, I wouldn't be surprised if that brainiac filed the sear. In any case, my advice would be find a new smith. A quick check did not reveal any drop in aftermarket triggers for the 99, but that doesn't mean parts are unavailable. I own one 99 in good condition, and I have replaced and adjusted a number of triggers myself on other guns. But I personally would not feel comfortable messing with the trigger on the 99.
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Old August 22, 2016, 06:56 PM   #3
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That is a good call. 99's have a lot of leverage on the trigger group. They pop up on ebay and Gunbroker now and then, but be careful, they are probably as worn as the one you have. Or worse, as legionierbill said, sometimes people take a grinder to all the parts in the trigger group. Check it out. Maybe the firing pin spring was cut off or something else is wrong. There is probably a video on the internet showing how to disassemble it in the proper order. It does not look as if you can hurt anything on it anymore. The only absolute is the stock screw. ABSOLUTELY use either a special screwdriver made just for the 99 stock screw, or find an old tire iron that has a screwdriver tip on one end. I have seen a LOT of cracked stocks caused by using a screwdriver that was too small.
I have two .250's in the "Fix it when I get time" closet now for about two years. I know I have a .300 in there too. I guess I am almost as bad as that gunsmith.
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Old August 22, 2016, 07:11 PM   #4
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Must be a common problem with these old boys

Quote:
Not really worth much .
Don't sell these short as they are great rifles. I only regret selling mine, years ago. You have the brass rotary mag which is rarer than the newer ones. If the bore good and overall, in good shape, it's worth the effort. Took my first Alabama buck with one just like this. .....

It's ironic that I had the identical problem with mine. I had a welder build the metal back up and I trimmed it down. Prior to the repair work, there were time when it fired as soon as you closed the action. You had to go slow and easy. The fix was minor and corrected the problem. Understand that this was over 25yrs. ago. A friend of mine bought it for $60.00 at a garage sale and then sold it to me for $100.00. ......

Be Safe !!!
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Old August 23, 2016, 12:32 AM   #5
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Thanks you all , I'll be getting it back on Thursday and I'll give it a little tinker and see what I can see . I'll do a bit or research before hand for sure .
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Old August 24, 2016, 12:30 PM   #6
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Do some research and learn exactly how those guns operate; it is not as simple as a '94 Winchester, and very easy to get the gun so it goes off while being closed.

Jim
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Old August 26, 2016, 12:53 PM   #7
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"...Not really worth much..." Um, don't let the Savage 99 guys hear you say that. Feisty bunch so they are. They might come for you. snicker.
There's a 1917 vintage 99 TD on Gunbroker sitting at $750.00 right now. Finish isn't worn off though. DO NOT COLD BLUE YOUR'S.
As mentioned, sounds like somebody tried to do a trigger job without knowing how. You probably need another trigger as well as a sear. The latter being a Sear Bracket Assembly(sold out at Gunparts) vs just a sear.
Savage99.com is the place to rummage around.
Exploded drawing. http://stevespages.com/ipb-savage-99...)-99e-99f.html
Manual is here. Download the one for the Savage 1899. The one for the 'Solid Frame' is useless. http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm
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Old August 26, 2016, 07:15 PM   #8
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Let us not confuse him. The solid frame and T/D frame parts in the receiver are the same. One of the .250's I have in the closet is a solid frame. The Model C is the newer model. That drawing from THE GUN PARTS is misleading. I think that "Serial numbers above 1 million" is wrong.
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Old August 26, 2016, 07:20 PM   #9
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Let us not confuse him. The solid frame and T/D frame parts in the receiver are the same. One of the .250's I have in the closet is a solid frame. The Model C is the newer model with the detachable magazine. That drawing from THE GUN PARTS is misleading. I think that "Serial numbers above 1 million" is wrong. What the heck is a sear bracket assembly?
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Old August 27, 2016, 02:18 AM   #10
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James , Yes that is the plan .

Thanks T.Oheir I did get it back but have not had the time to look at it yet . Likely going to have a look this weekend at some point .



[IMG][/IMG]

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Old August 28, 2016, 03:33 PM   #11
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the stories it could tell

If only it could talk, looks like it could tell about lots of hunting trips
bb
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Old August 29, 2016, 04:57 PM   #12
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Yes, there was one on Gunbroker a while ago that probably would have told a story about the owner backing into it while it was leaning against a tree.
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Old September 12, 2016, 02:00 AM   #13
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UPDATE

Hey guys and maybe gals , Finally got to breaking down the rifle to take a look . I have several pictures for you guys to look at .

Sorry I don't know the official terms for the parts because the blow up picture seems hard to read/identify the parts to the gun but I'll try

TRIGGER SEAR





HAMMER


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Old September 12, 2016, 02:11 AM   #14
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Update continued , How they mate up

How they engage each other








The first set of pics and this last one , Looking at the trigger sear specifically looks worn and or rounded . I'm assuming that surface should be perfectly flat and square to the hammer surface all the way to the tip . How ever the last 1/8" or so clearly rounds off .

What say you guys and what do I do next besides clean the living snot out of this thing ? I was looking and if that sear is still safe ??? what about modifying or replacing the trigger spring to be a monster to create more resistance when pulling the trigger ???
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Old September 12, 2016, 08:27 AM   #15
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It's been a long time since I've had my 99 apart to see what the internals look like, but that does seem to be a bit more wear than is normal.

I seem to recall that there is a slight bevel on the sear, but that looks extreme.

"what about modifying or replacing the trigger spring to be a monster to create more resistance when pulling the trigger ???"

If it's unsafe, that's not going to make it safer.
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Old September 12, 2016, 01:34 PM   #16
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I had a couple other observations . One is how far off set the two pieces are when cocked .

The other goes to
Quote:
Originally Posted by James K
Do some research and learn exactly how those guns operate; it is not as simple as a '94 Winchester, and very easy to get the gun so it goes off while being closed.
Although the trigger is VERY light . I cant get it to drop the hammer unless the trigger is pulled . Giving it a good jarring or even slamming the lever closed does not cause the hammer to fall . I know it does not mean it's safe and I wont consider it so untill more work has been done on it but I would have thought with how light the trigger is that I could cause it to drop the hammer with out pulling the trigger .
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Old September 12, 2016, 04:51 PM   #17
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That angle on the sear should not be there. If it was worn that way it would not cover the whole flat. When the stock is off, you can see that the area that catches on the trigger IS the angled area. Personally, I would not feel comfortable with it like that. The whole concept of a lever action is a fast second shot. I never wear gloves that are heavier than cotton when I use my 99's for hunting because I had a "Fast second shot" one time. It is a real eye opener.
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Old September 12, 2016, 04:54 PM   #18
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That angle on the sear should not be there. If it was worn that way it would not cover the whole flat. When the stock is off, you can see that the area that catches on the trigger IS the angled area. Personally, I would not feel comfortable with it like that. The whole concept of a lever action is a fast second shot. I never wear gloves that are heavier than cotton when I use my 99's for hunting because I had a "Fast second shot" one time. It is a real eye opener. As far as building it up, maybe. I never did because there were always plenty of used ones around. First you have to figure out what kind of material it is.
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Old September 12, 2016, 11:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
That angle on the sear should not be there. If it was worn that way it would not cover the whole flat.
You know I was thinking that same thing . At the same time I was not sure the problem was not the the two parts are off set from one another . It may be common practice in old guns or even guns in general but it seems odd to me that the two parts don't mate up in line but off set .

So why if they do not rub together in that area is the sear worn the same all the way across ?

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Old September 13, 2016, 04:32 AM   #20
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Somebody took a grinder to it. The engagement is offset in every one I have pulled apart.
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Old September 13, 2016, 07:15 AM   #21
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That's actually the proper amount of offset for a 99's sear/hammer engagement.

But I agree, it really looks like someone went in there with some abrasive tools that never should have been.
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