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Old November 22, 2008, 01:00 AM   #26
kiloxj
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No Wolf

as posted earlier wolf is for AK's well bc they have suck loose actions they dont gum up. The cleanest(not very clean) but cleanest steel cased 223 is the brown bear and silver bear. And its a 62 gr HP. Now on all steel cased sheaper ammo the laquer is the problem in the fouling and carbon build up in the bore and your (well mine does) boltcarrier will gum up after 1-200 rds then a few jams might occur. Use hopes elite gun oil on your bolt but not in excess or a grudge will form and your day is over until your bore and boltcarrier have been cleaned to a point and relubed. Overlubing will work but its a mess, the proper lube job will casue eventually a few jams. I have found for practice or just to go shooting with out really no target is the ULtramax remanufactured brass casing. 150 Rds. for 43.00 with tax a Dicks Sporting. So even though its remanufactured its great pratice ammo and i have 350 rds so far and my ar hasnt jammed once, and the bore is still shinig chrome to a point. 300 of a laquer steel cased will shut down a improperly maintained ar in 4- 60 rds. I am an ocd ex marine when it come to cleaning weapons but i hate carbon. 240 buks for 900 rds of brass remanufactured for practice is not a bad price and keeps your weapon on the range onger without help from hoppes #9 and a little powder blast. my Opinion, and thats all it is. I found a guy trying to sell 1000 rds of wolf for 400, what a DB. i hope its some secret cia crap that has a sensor so u never miss, or he is an idiot
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Old November 22, 2008, 01:04 AM   #27
hoytinak
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My Mini-14 and M16 are dissapointing me pretty bad, I've shot in the upwards of 10K rounds of Wolf through each and they haven't quit on me yet....still waiting.
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Old November 22, 2008, 01:14 AM   #28
kiloxj
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Huh

Must have gotton clean ammo and have a real loose action, when i was in iraq i clared a hodgies damn ak and the bolt literally came out without diassemble, i laughed my ass off then had the AAV run over it, but no wonder its tolerate. My buddy got 500 rds wolf. never clared 28 rds in a mag without a jam. then i would trow silver bear in there and no problem. Then mine started jamming with Silver Bear, and i noticed i needed new gas rings on my bolt, Screw that i took a torch and hoseclamp and now the are good as new. All weapons have their flaws. The cheaper the ammo the more carbon build up and jams probably, but i cant afford to shoot brass everytime i go shoot. I'v got about the same a=mount through my rifle and ti will group like it did the day i got it. And our RRA NM whoots just as good asany of our colt Sporter mAtch Hbars. The sp1's are a little different bc of the ultralight barrels. To each his own and all weapons have a flaw, its up to the shooter to learn his weapn and control it. I cleaned my A4 in Iraq twice in 7 months. Boltcarrier group and bolt with hopes once a convoy and a pull w the boresnake. Not one jam in 7 months
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Old November 22, 2008, 10:33 AM   #29
Bartholomew Roberts
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Quote:
Now on all steel cased sheaper ammo the laquer is the problem in the fouling
I keep seeing people say this (almost as if they haven't read a word anybody else posted before offering their thoughts on the matter); but I haven't yet seen anybody offer any information to support his conclusion.

Here is the information I have offered against this conclusion:

1. I've seen polymer-coated steel cases stick just like the lacquer-coated steel cases.
2. Hornady uses lacquer-coated steel cases that look just like Wolf exterior-wise; but don't stick
3. I have never seen a case where the lacquer melted off, even when I put lacquer coated cases into an oven and cooked them at 500F for an hour (that is 100F shy of cook-off temperature in an AR15 for AN HOUR).

Perhaps one of you that keep suggesting that lacquered cases are the problem will explain HOW you reached that conclusion instead of simply stating it as fact?
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Old November 22, 2008, 11:29 AM   #30
Skans
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Quote:
I've seen polymer-coated steel cases stick just like the lacquer-coated steel cases.
I used to only shoot brass in my Carbon-15 pistol, and when it got dirty, cases would stick in the chamber too. Clean it and it worked fine - it just doesn't like to be dirty, that's all. So, I've been shooting the poly-coated wolf in it and, so far, not one has stuck. If functions flawlessly, so long as I keep the chamber and bolt clean.

My AC556 isn't as finicky as the Carbon-15 pistol. I can shoot hundreds of rounds of Wolf thorugh it with no hick-ups whatsoever. Ammo isn't the problem in the AC, out-of-spec mags are. I had to work on a beta mag for a couple of hours, filing small amounts of the feed lips off a little at a time for a couple of hours until I could get it to run smoothly. The first time I popped that betamag in my AC, I couldn't even force the bolt carrier back. All it took was a lot of patience, a flat file, and 2 hours of filing and testing at the range.
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Old November 22, 2008, 03:07 PM   #31
RockyMtnTactical
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Quote:
Wolf is for AKs and Makarovs, to torture a western design with it is cruel to our fine rifles.
I don't even like to shoot it in AK's and Mak's.

Bear and Barnaul are much better QC-wise.
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Old November 22, 2008, 07:34 PM   #32
Bartholomew Roberts
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Quote:
I used to only shoot brass in my Carbon-15 pistol, and when it got dirty, cases would stick in the chamber too.
First, I think your stuck cases have more to do with the barrel chamber in a Carbon-15 pistol than the type of ammunition used.

Second, the polymer cases I saw stuck where in a 5.56x45 chrome-lined chamber in a Bushmaster 16" rifle. They were sticking from a sparkly-clean chamber after only about 100 rounds. Not only that; but the fouling was excessive - hardened chunks of carbon the size of bolt lugs falling out of the upper upon disassembly. This is not a case of improper maintenance. It isn't a case of lacquer coated ammo either.

Whatever causes the sticking case problem with Wolf (and the general problems with reliability), it isn't the case coating based on everything I have seen.
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