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Old June 13, 2008, 09:06 PM   #1
joshua9578
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skeet choke & shot size?

hey everyone, still trying to figure my winchester 1300s choke out. ive started shooting trap and skeet. i have asked a question about thechoke on here before and have figured it out to be an imp cyl. a few guys on here have told me that is a good choke to have for skeet, but now i am hearing certain chokes perform best, or give a better pattern with certain size shot. is there any rule of thumb or simply trial and error?
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Old June 13, 2008, 09:14 PM   #2
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For skeet, Use Imp.Cyl or Skeet(Cyl.Bore) and #9 shot. Thats pretty much the standard. For trap, Use Imp.Mod. or full and 7 1/2 or 8's. You want a high pellet count for skeet because it close shooting and you dont need a large pellet to bust em'. Use larger shot(7 1/2) for trap because its longer ranges and different angles of flight. Good luck and practice,practice,practice.
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Old June 13, 2008, 09:25 PM   #3
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alright thanks, im practicing as much as i can get out, but i have to answer the call of the fishing season at the same time.
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Old June 14, 2008, 07:46 AM   #4
Jeff Mulliken
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You and the targets wont know the difference between an Imp Cyl and a Skeet choke. Dont spend any more time worrying about choke. Just focus on your technique.

By the way a skeet choke is not "cylinder". cylinder is zero constriction and a Skeet choke is typically 5 thousandths and an Imp Cyl is 10 thousandths.

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Old June 14, 2008, 08:31 AM   #5
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Jeff, I know their different but to the average shooter it doesnt make a real big difference. And it saves them a little money instead of going out and buying a new tube when cylinder is close enough for them to get the feel of it. Then later if needed, they can invest in a "skeet" choked tube. Joshua, For now, I would stick with the Imp.Cyl tube and you should be fine. And I got the fishing itch also im and headed to the shore tommorow to hit the surf for some Stripers.
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Old June 14, 2008, 12:09 PM   #6
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Just an interesting bit of trivia: Cylinder choke has constriction, too.
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Old June 14, 2008, 05:47 PM   #7
joshua9578
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since we are on the subject, is there anywhere that shows a picture of the patterns of the different chokes? i can understand when someone tells me one is good for skeet or for small game, but i think if i seen a diagram or some sort of illustrated description it would be easier to know the different chokes and their uses.
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Old June 14, 2008, 06:25 PM   #8
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Joshua - see if this works for you:

http://www.briley.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=51

scroll down some to see the spread
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Old June 14, 2008, 10:48 PM   #9
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Gotta jump in. Check Remington's site. Their skeet choke is -.005". I.e. it is .005" larger than the bore. When someone told me this, I had to check. It is true, at least for mine. Or so says my caliper.

http://www.remington.com/products/ac...hoke_specs.asp

Point being, the only real measure is the amount of constriction relative to your bore.

Terms like Skeet, Skeet I, Skeet II, Cylinder, Improved Modified, light modified, etc. have different meanings depending on who manufactured them.

That's why I prefer Angleport tubes. They are marked with the bore diameter, and the amount of constriction in thousandths. This seems a lot clearer to me.

With all that said, the only way to really tell what is happening is to pattern your gun with the different chokes and loads that you will use. Every gun is something of a rule unto itself. Identical shotguns with the same choke and load will likely pattern differently.

If you take the time to pattern, then you will KNOW what is happening. Otherwise you are really just guessing.
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Old June 15, 2008, 09:19 AM   #10
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skeet load

My Savage Fox side-by-side has modified & improved bores. I think 7.5 shot is ideal for skeet & trap. I prefer trap shooting. I recommend full loads to reach out down range. I agree that you should not put too much emphasis on the round, but concentrate on your stance and technique. I train youth at our Scout camp to point their index finger with their forearm hand towards the flight of of the clay pigeon, and to allow the clay to fly out a bit before nailing it.
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Old June 15, 2008, 08:13 PM   #11
joshua9578
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thanks oneounce, that sort of diagram is exactly what i was lookin for. i know chokes and shells mean nothing if my technique is worthless, but ive only been out probably five or six times. ive thought about taking some sort of lessons just to get a good foundation to build on. from what ive heard your never too old to take a couple lessons. the last time i went out, i shot a few rounds with an older guy who had just retired and started to get into the sport. he said a few lessons, books, and magazine articles taught him ten fold what he had learned by going out with his company a couple times a year. plus i have a good forty five years on him, so there is plenty of time for me to figure everything out. thanks guys.
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Old June 15, 2008, 08:51 PM   #12
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When you get bitten by the shotshell reloading bug you will learn much about patterns and different powders for tailoring your pattern to the barrel you are shooting. In a nutshell, if you want tighter patterns from your barrel shoot Green Dot, and if you want more open patterns shoot anything else.
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Old June 16, 2008, 12:05 PM   #13
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My two cents. If you really insist on using a pump shottie to shoot skeet and trap - then you should get a couple chokes suitable for skeet (cylinder and a skeet 1, maybe skeet 2 or improved cylinder - but you probably won't need them with such a short barrel gun), a couple chokes suitable for trap distances (probably an improved modified and modified for your type of gun but if this is the really short barrel you may want to go even tighter), and go pattern the gun first with some 7-1/2 to 8 shot for the trap, and 8, 8-1/2, or 9 shot for skeet. That will help you define where your densest shot string is going and you can then adjust accordingly where you will be placing your rear sight (you) on the stock for your best sight picture and put the most pellets on the bird. You can use a heavier shot if you want for your second bird so you can reach out a little further. I cannot use a pump for doubles - just pulls me off the gun and I lose the bird - good luck to you, it is great fun no matter what you decide to use.
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Old June 16, 2008, 12:45 PM   #14
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barrel length and chokes are not related, cylinder or full will do the same constriction, (assuming diameter the same), whether the barrel is long or short;

That being said - use a SK, or similarly open, choke for skeet, and mod or tighter for trap and you'll do fine - remember to pattern chokes with your shells. A one ounce shell with #8's will work fine for both for starting out. As you progress, you'll pick up pointers on shells, chokes, barrels, stance, etc.

Short barrel shotguns ARE harder to swing as smoothly on a target than a longer barrel.

shoot safe and have fun!
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Old June 16, 2008, 03:25 PM   #15
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Like others told you - every barrel and every choke is a little different. On a Benelli super sport with their crio barrel a CYL coke is about .005 / on my Browning O/U's a skeet choke is about .005 Just because a choke is marked Skeet you can't really assume it's .005 / you need to check your chokes and pattern your chokes and barrels to really know what you're getting for patterns and point of impact.

My all around load for Skeet, 16yard trap and sporting clays is 1 oz of 8's at about 1225 fps ( in 12ga ). A lot of my buddies load 7/8 oz of 8's or 9's at 1150fps as their primary shell - especially if they're recoil sensitive. Even 7/8oz of 9's are plenty at 16 yard trap singles in a 12 or 20ga for that matter. A general guideline - at a kill range of 20-30 yards use 9's / 30 - 40 yards 8's / beyond 40 yards I go to 7 1/2's - trap shots from 16 yard line you are shooting the bird as it rises ideally, and they are around 35 yards before they start to level off.
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