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Old April 30, 2008, 08:41 PM   #1
Ricklin
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Capper advice Please.

So what is the best capper for a 58 remmie. I bought one of the brass ones that looks rather like a snail, no go the cut in the cyl. is slightly narrower than the capper. I thought about opening up that cut a little, thought better of it, don't want a chain fire from that end.

Don't care about 'traditional' look, just something that makes it quick and easy, and pref. holds a bunch of caps.

If any of you remember my trials and tribulations getting this gun (sucky etailer) I did finally get it and put about 30 rounds through it. Grouped very well with about 30 grns. of black, wonder wad, and a .454 ball. Only thing I noticed was the back of the trigger guard is kinda hard one your fingers with 40 grns. powder, lots of smoke and fire tho. It appears 40 is about max. proly get 45-50 w/o a wad and grease instead. Seems like 40 is plenty anyway. Sweet revolver!
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Old April 30, 2008, 08:51 PM   #2
Hawg
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I don't use them but from my understanding none of them work well with 58's. Also a capper is not a seater. You still have to use your thumb or wood dowel etc. to fully seat caps.
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Old April 30, 2008, 09:08 PM   #3
FL-Flinter
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I don't like snail cappers. There are several different brands of stick cappers, the best ones have the spring steel fingers on the capping end and the thicker the steel, the better it will work. These can be a bit of a pain to fill with caps but a decent pair of needlenose tweezers will prove extremely handy. Get a few cappers, load them up at home so you don't have to re-fill the cappers at the range.
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Old April 30, 2008, 11:40 PM   #4
Fingers McGee
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I always use a snail/revolver capper on my Colts & clones. You can exert sufficient pressure with one to fully seat the caps, so a push stick is not necessary. They can be used on the Remmies; but you have to expand the opening so the capper will fit. A dremel tool and sanding drum will do the job.
Barring that, a stick capper with two springs works best IMHO.

The buck and roar of a 44 filled with 35-40 grains of fffg is a lot of fun; but for competition purposes - shooting five to seven stages in a day - 24 to 28 grains is all you need to hit the targets. It's somewhat cheaper that way & won't tire you out.
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Old May 1, 2008, 09:10 AM   #5
Pahoo
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I go back and forth between an older brass tube capper and a snail. Again, as stated, that only gets it on the nipple and you have to make sure it's seated properly. Once you develope your own technique, it will become easier.

Be Safe !!!
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Old May 1, 2008, 09:40 AM   #6
noelf2
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Ricklin- I did the same thing. Why didn't you make this post a month ago so I didn't buy one of those?

Opps, maybe I should have made a post so you didn't buy one....
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Old May 1, 2008, 10:09 AM   #7
Ricklin
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Good thing I saved the receipt

I am going to measure how much I would need to take off the cyl. to make the snail capper work, as I do kinda like the design. If it's only a few thou. I may undertake that little mod. Might be able to shave a little off the capper as well. After looking closely at the cutout I don't 'think' it could create a chainfire as the cutout is facing the top strap when firing. I guess it depends on how much metal I need to remove.

Fingers: Yup it is fun, but the groups def. open up as the charge goes up. I brought a buddy with me when I shot and he was poo-pooing cap and ball. So I loaded her up with 40 grns. and let him have at it, now he is a believer! I told him to get his S+W .357 out and we would have a little contest as to best group! He is not good with a handgun, and would always blame the weapon.

Thanks all for the input, and now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
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Old May 1, 2008, 11:02 AM   #8
mykeal
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Trim the capper. It's easier and it works. Just don't overdo it.

As for the chainfire issue - opening up the cylinder around the nipple won't have any effect on the probability of a chainfire from the rear of the cylinder, nor does the orientation of the fired nipple under the top strap have any effect. If you get a leak at the nippl, the plasma will envelop the back of the cylinder regardless of where the top strap is or how big the cutouts around the nipples are. Think of it as a ball of very thin liquid, like alcohol; it gets into everything, even if there is only a little tiny crack.
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Old May 2, 2008, 03:19 PM   #9
scrat
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flat bladed screw driver. i take a piece of double sided tape. rub it a little to remove some of the stickyness. then put a few caps on the bench. touch the screwdriver to one. then put the cap on. Then repeat. its sooooo easy.
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Old May 2, 2008, 05:26 PM   #10
JBB
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I always have to pinch #10 Remington caps to make them stay on, so a capper doesn't work for me. Its not a big deal when you get used to it.
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Old May 2, 2008, 06:04 PM   #11
long rider
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Get yourself a ted cash capper, they work well with remmys.
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Old May 5, 2008, 03:41 PM   #12
drdirk
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What is a Ted Cash Capper? I usually don't use one at all.
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Old May 5, 2008, 04:32 PM   #13
long rider
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OK as far as i know ted cash is not related to johnny cash
that was my poor sence of humer.
I was in a little gun store in ks some time back, near paola
this was a cool store for bp surplys, so i asked the guy for
a cap holder what would fit the remmy, and he said try this
he handid me this capper and on the pack it was in said
ted cash stright line capper ideal for remminton, actually
ted cash as a whole line of products for bp, but that is the
only place i have ever seen that name brand
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Old May 5, 2008, 08:09 PM   #14
mykeal
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Link to Track of the Wolf site with Ted Cash cappers:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(hpo...ID=1&styleID=1
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Old May 7, 2008, 10:43 PM   #15
byronw999
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I've had the best luck with this CVA capper for my Remmys: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=949569

Have 2 Ted Cash cappers and all they do most of the time is pop the end off and sling caps everywhere..
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