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Old April 10, 2008, 02:34 PM   #1
brockgl
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What kind of knife set will I need to hunt?

I am brand new to hunting, and I want to buy a knife set that will allow me to do everything I need when it comes to field dressing. I want to get all the type of knives I will need for birds and large and small game. I plan to hunt rabbit, deer, turkey, and lots of other birds. Also squirrel, and other small game. Any suggestions on brands and types of knives that are 'must haves'?
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Old April 10, 2008, 02:51 PM   #2
deanadell
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I have found an original "Wyoming Knife" to be indispensable

http://www.wyomingknife.com/knives.htm

for anything smaller than deer, a good sharp single blade lockback. I personally use a Buck Squire.
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Old April 10, 2008, 02:58 PM   #3
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This is all you need. Look at Outdoor Edge Game Processer Kit.
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Old April 10, 2008, 03:07 PM   #4
W. C. Quantrill
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Well, first of all forget about brands. What you need is quality. Quality is defined by the type of steel used in the blade, the heat treat, the resulting Rockwell hardness of the blade, and then more to the personal note, the blade shape.
The old standby steel by which all others are judged 440-C stainless. It is a high carbon, high chromium alloy steel that started the custom knife business. Other good quality steels following along this line are 154 CM and ATS-34. These are the same steel, one an American steel and the other a Japanese steel. Lately makers have swung to AUS-4, AUS-6, AND AUS-8. These are steels used by the "Brand name" knife makers, fairly good steels but suited to easy and fast machine manufacturing methods.

Probably the most copied and most carried knife going is the Loveless drop point. I was down in Riverside a couple years ago and stopped and visited with Bob Loveless, and he said that now all his knives are going to collectors and are bringing around $2000 each. So, if you arent able to swing that for a 3-1/2" bladed knife, then you will need to settle on a copy.

A good using knife does not need to be over 4" long blade. It should also have a drop point, or it will snag and cut the paunch and guts while butchering, ruining the meat. The resulting trade off on the blade is the hardness which helps determine the ability of the blade to stay sharp. The harder it is, the longer it stays sharp, also, the more difficult it is to resharpen. A blade stamped R-56 will sharpen easier than a R-60, but the R-60 stays sharper longer. This is the range of hardness you need to select for.

This brings you to 1. a brand name knife, or 2. a custom made knife. The custom makers get $300-500 for the same knife design that they franchise out to the brand knife maker who sells it for $50-$75. The difference is that the brand name seller has the knives made in China by machine and slave labor.

Good brands are Benchmade, Lone Wolf, Columbia River Knife and Tool, Case, Fallkniven, and Buck for hunting knives. Benchmade and Lone Wolf is excellent quality but expensive for what you get. Fallkniven is an import but top shelf. Case is the old standby, and I find Buck to be my last choice, an old line brand but using clip points, and being tempered very very hard. I have seen Buck knives break by being dropped on concrete. That leaves Columbia River or CRKT which is in my book the best bang for the buck. Their designs are excellent, especially the Russ Komer designs, their steel is excellent, and they stand behind their products unquestionably. They keep their prices down by using Chinese manufacture to their specifications.

Study what is out there. Study the steel qualities. Make a selection based 1. on blade shape, and 2. on steel quality, then find the brand that gives that to you for the best price.
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Old April 10, 2008, 03:13 PM   #5
taylorce1
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I use a folding Bucklite knife or my Helle Odel fixed blade knife for the chores of gutting and skinning. I find a Wyoming saw a great item to have as well for cutting through bone. I use just a regular old fillet knife $8 from Wal-Mart for most of my meat processing needs. A good knife is very important but learning how to keep one sharp is probably more important.
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Old April 10, 2008, 03:21 PM   #6
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I carry a Buck 110 daily and I buy all my kitchen cutlery at yard sales. Folks will buy a set of junk knives and sell the old carbon steel stuff for a buck or less each. Since my wife thinks sharp knives are dangerous, she calls all the good knives His and never notices when they are outdoors for butcherin' duty. I will buy most any american made knife and if it won't take or hold a good edge I let it go...
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Old April 10, 2008, 07:13 PM   #7
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Buck makes affordable, quaility hunting knives. You don't need any thing fancier or more expensive but beware, you'll be tempted.
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Old April 10, 2008, 07:35 PM   #8
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W.C., my CRKT M60 SOTFB says it's made in Taiwan.
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Old April 10, 2008, 08:02 PM   #9
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This is what I use. (It is B in the picture.)
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Old April 11, 2008, 04:15 AM   #10
predator86
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any folding knife with a blade of 3-4 inches in length with a good lock back design will work fine as long as its sharp....
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Old April 11, 2008, 05:53 AM   #11
qajaq59
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Quote:
A good knife is very important but learning how to keep one sharp is probably more important
Oh boy, is that true........
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Old April 11, 2008, 07:42 AM   #12
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Buck 110.
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Old April 11, 2008, 09:11 AM   #13
Art Eatman
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Me'n' predator 86. I've gutted many a deer and skinned them out, with a 4" folding Solingen pocketknife. Tap the back of the blade with a rock to split the pelvis bone. And, truth be told, most of the butchering, too.

Main thing is "sharp", with steel that will hold an edge. Most any decent carbon steel and a medium fine stone will let you disassemble most any critter.
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Old April 11, 2008, 12:52 PM   #14
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Only thing I hate about folders is getting the gunk out of them after using them.

Anyone have any tricks for this?
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Old April 11, 2008, 03:45 PM   #15
RedneckFur
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I've never had any trouble taking deer apart with a Buck 110 folder or a Case "yellow handle" folding trapper. It doesnt take a giant knife to do it, just a good, sharp one.
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Old April 11, 2008, 03:56 PM   #16
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Just stay away from the big Bowie knives yea, they look cool and I have seen many people that are ill informed take one to the field to TRY to clean a deer. I say try because it is much too big and unwieldy and they usually butcher the job. Stick with the above mentioned suggestions, a 3-4" blade is all you really need, folder or fixed blade, stick with a "big name" knife company (buck, case, etc...) and you should be fine. Also as others have said, learn how to keep it sharp.
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Old April 11, 2008, 05:13 PM   #17
Art Eatman
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"Only thing I hate about folders is getting the gunk out of them after using them."

Scalding hot water and a toothpick.
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Old April 11, 2008, 06:16 PM   #18
MeekAndMild
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Quote:
Tap the back of the blade with a rock to split the pelvis bone.
A smallish chunk of firewood works just as good with less chance of scratching the blade.
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Old April 11, 2008, 06:28 PM   #19
davlandrum
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Art, similar to what I do - just seems there would be a better way. I am wondering if peroxide might work...guess I'll just have to try it.
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Old April 11, 2008, 07:02 PM   #20
taylorce1
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You could always get one of those folders with interchangeable blades. Remove the blade when you clean it and probably get a tooth brush down in there.
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Old April 11, 2008, 07:13 PM   #21
Pahoo
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For small game, I use a Juno, by Buck or 110 or Sod Buster. For bigger work, I use a Puma White Hunter or small hand ax. However, I do not split the pelvis on deer till I'm back to camp or home and after I skin.

Be Safe
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Old April 11, 2008, 08:41 PM   #22
MeekAndMild
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Scalding hot water and a toothpick.
Dish soap and somebody else's toothbrush.
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Old April 11, 2008, 09:17 PM   #23
flyboy14
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I always carry a leatherman tool at work, and in the field. The last new tool I bought has a guthook, and a bone saw on it. Bone saw works perfect for cutting through the brisket on deer, and the guthook is awesome. I own countless knives, but the leatherman is the only one I carry every day. You do not need a huge knife to field dress deer. What you need is a SHARP knife!
Case, buck, gerber, puma, all make good blades with good steel, it is just like guns, you can do the same thing with a ruger, that you can with a weatherby.
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Old April 11, 2008, 09:24 PM   #24
W. C. Quantrill
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Turkeyhead

Yes all the CRKT knives are made in Taiwan. I know Rod Bremer personally, and have been to their plant in Portland as well as Benchmade and Lone Wolf. I used to write for a couple knife magazines in a previous life. Rod spends quite a bit of time in China overseeing the Quality Control on his knives, and making sure that the heat treats are proper.

My every day carry is a CRKT Carson M21-14. It isnt designed the way I'd like for a hunting knife but it opens faster than a switchblade and it is a good all around general knife. Sometimes I carry a large Benchmade AFO auto. It is handy for a one handed knife, but captures the attention of the fish and game nazis.

I have handled most of the knives of the name brands, and for the money spent there isnt a better deal out there than the CRKT knives.

The most versatile, and comfortable knife in the hunting camp is the CRKT Bwana, a large folder by Russ Kommer. It has the drop point, it is an open frame design and all the crap goes on thru and drops out. It has proper sweep to skin and enough straight edge to slice. It is a high carbon 420J stainless and will do a complete butchering job with little touchup.

http://www.agrussell.com/knives/by_p...ska_bwana.html

Several have asked about getting the gunk out of a folder. That is simple. Dont buy a closed back folder. I love the Case Sod Buster, but it is closed back and traps stuff in it. The Buck 110 is probably the design that got the folder craze going, but it is closed, and it has that nasty clip point. The new knives are open designs. There is no spring along the spine, it is open. Stuff doesnt collect in there. When ya get home, rinse it out and you are good to go.

Another feature I like about the CRKT knives, especially the Kommer designs are the hollow ground blades. The hollow grind does not drag in the meat like a flat grind. Did I mention that I do not see a clip point knife having any practical use in a hunting camp as far as field dressing is concerned? A clip point is a sharp up turned point. Its only function is to poke holes in guts and fill your body cavity with digested $#!t, and ruin your meat. Select a good main knife and a back up and you dont need a knife system.

Sharpeners are one thing not mentioned here. In this arena there are two sharpeners, the CRKT and the Lansky that are worth mentioning. They will form up your cutting edge at the proper angle and hone it smoothe enough to hold it. They are also light. Weight is a main factor on all that you do in and around the hunting camp.
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Old April 12, 2008, 03:55 AM   #25
qajaq59
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Quote:
Only thing I hate about folders is getting the gunk out of them after using them.
An old tooth brush helps a lot.
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