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Old March 20, 2008, 08:16 PM   #26
DBotkin
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Join Date: December 14, 2006
Location: Omaha, NE
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Wow... anyone needing a chill pill, please take a seat... I thought it was light hearted and funny. But, hey, some things that would be funny as hell face to face don't always get interpreted as they're intended when in text form.

This is an interesting topic, though. I'm in the final stages of rebuilding my Remington 700, and re-installed the trigger last night. It may be a tad gummy, I can't really tell... I used some spray bore cleaner to flush it out, and put a couple drops of Smooth-Kote on it. Smooth-Kote seems to be very similar to Dri-Slide, which I also have a decades-old can of. Interesting to see the responses that pretty much affirm what I suspected.

I may re-clean mine using isopropyl or something, since I don't have any brake cleaner handy. I do have some flux remover if I can ever find the can, it's similar - will dissolve ANY sort of oil or grease and flush it out.
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Old March 20, 2008, 08:49 PM   #27
UniversalFrost
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Join Date: February 20, 2006
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lots of folks use rubbing alcohol (the pure grade stuff though) for flux remover on the circuit boards. So I am guessing your flux remover is just a very purified version of isypropal alcohol.
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Old March 21, 2008, 01:49 PM   #28
Inspector3711
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Join Date: February 9, 2008
Location: Puget Sound Washington
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Good thing I'm used to getting the finger. I am an Inspector after all.. Or is it traveling salesman? Either way, I'm used to it.
Isopropyl works well too, but the idea behind brake cleaner was to blast the crud out without having to tear it down. You could go with alchohol and compressed air but then most home compressors don't have dryers so you may be forcing some moisture into the assembly. Brake cleaner was just over $2 and was very effective. If you use it get the non chlorinated (less toxic) and shoot short bursts. As I stated earlier, this stuff can get your metal parts real cold. If they get cold then condensation will form and the rust problem comes up.
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