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Old July 5, 2010, 07:48 PM   #3126
laytonj1
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Model 15-4, serial 5K4xxx, TT, TH, TG, 98%, no rust, very light cylinder line.
DOB and value?
1972. Around $400 to $450.

Quote:
I just acquired two old smiths, can anyone do a dob please.
32 long 303xxx
38 special 95k7xxx
Any other info anyone has on tje 32 would be appreciated.
The 38 is 1981.
As for the 32, if it's a round butt then it's a .32 Hand Ejector 3rd Model.
Serial numbers ran from 263001 in 1917 to 536684 in 1942.
If it's a square butt, then it's a .32 Regulation Police (pre war).
Serial numbers ran the same as above.

Jim
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Old July 5, 2010, 09:37 PM   #3127
epiclemons
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I saw a Smith & Wesson Model 1-1/2 / 2nd Issue. (32 Rimfire). s/n 86068. what year is that from?
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Old July 5, 2010, 10:38 PM   #3128
epiclemons
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nevermind.

"The factory referred to this model as the New Model 1-1/2 and
it is an improved version of the 1st Issue. It is somewhat similar
in appearance with a few notable exceptions. The barrel is 2.5"
or 3.5" in length, round with a raised rib. The grip is of the
bird’s-head configuration, and the 5-shot cylinder is fluted and
chambered for the .32 Long rimfire cartridge. The cylinder stop
is located in the top frame instead of the bottom. The finish and
grip material are the same as the 1st Issue. There were approximately
100,700 manufactured between 1868 and 1875."

Found my answer
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Old July 6, 2010, 04:34 PM   #3129
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Good Afternoon! I just came across a pinned and recessed S&W Model 57. Serial number is N876xxx. It has a wooden box original grips and a nice set of Nill grips on her. Any info on the old gal would be appreciated!
Thanks,
K
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Old July 6, 2010, 08:09 PM   #3130
streetmaster
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Hey guys. I recently inherited a Model 67-1 .38 special stainless. Could you tell me the born on date, and maybe what it's worth, it's used - signs of light wear but taken care of. Oh, and is it safe to use +P loads? Serial# AVC7XXX

Also, it says on the barrel ".38 S&W Special CTG, what does the "CTG" mean?

Thanks in advance,
streetmaster

Last edited by streetmaster; July 6, 2010 at 08:32 PM.
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Old July 6, 2010, 11:37 PM   #3131
laytonj1
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I just came across a pinned and recessed S&W Model 57. Serial number is N876xxx.
N8XXXXX ran from 1980 to 1983.

Quote:
I recently inherited a Model 67-1 .38 special stainless. Could you tell me the born on date, and maybe what it's worth, it's used - signs of light wear but taken care of. Oh, and is it safe to use +P loads? Serial# AVC7XXX

Also, it says on the barrel ".38 S&W Special CTG, what does the "CTG" mean?
AVC7XXX = 1987.
Values range around $300 to $400 depending on condition.
+P's are okay but might accelerate wear with extended use.
CTG = cartridge.

Jim
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Old July 7, 2010, 10:34 AM   #3132
ntumbagahan
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i just acquired a SW 38 special airweight ctg from my grandfather
i beleive the serial number 80277, can someone please provide me with some info on this particular gun
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Old July 7, 2010, 11:04 AM   #3133
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ntumbagahan: You sound just a bit unsure on the SN - the definitive SN on S&W revolvers will be found on the bottom of the grip frame. Assuming that 80277 is correct, then your .38 Chiefs Special Airweight (the full model name) dates from 1956 (1955 production ended at approx. SN 75000 and 1957 production started at 117770). In 1957, when S&W started numbering their revolver models, it became the Model 37. It has an alloy frame, which reduces the weight compared to the regular steel-frame .38 Chiefs Special (Model 36), hence the "Airweight" designation. Some early Airweights had alloy cylinders as well, and those are not safe to fire, but based on the SN provided yours is well beyond that period.
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Old July 7, 2010, 11:07 AM   #3134
laytonj1
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i just acquired a SW 38 special airweight ctg from my grandfather
i beleive the serial number 80277
Have to figure out the model first so two questions:
Is it a 5 shot or 6?
Assuming you correctly took the serial number from the underside of the grip butt, is there a letter prefix a few spaces before the numbers?

Jim

Edit: Hey Flyfish, good to see you back.
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Old July 7, 2010, 11:15 AM   #3135
ntumbagahan
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Layton i beleive it is a 5 shot, and there is no letter prefix, hope this helps
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Old July 7, 2010, 11:16 AM   #3136
FlyFish
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Thanks, Jim - nice to be back. Been to Italy for a couple weeks on vacation - crazy drivers, but very good food and wine.
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Old July 7, 2010, 11:21 AM   #3137
laytonj1
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Layton i beleive it is a 5 shot, and there is no letter prefix, hope this helps
Then FlyFish's response is right on.

Jim
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Old July 7, 2010, 10:23 PM   #3138
T_hess
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Ive got a 38 special S&W that i found in a relatives house after they passed away and was wondering what year it was and what model it could be.

On the barrel it reads, 38 S&W special ctg, and it is a 6 shooter. The serial number is 204xxx, no letter prefix. Thanks in advance
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Old July 7, 2010, 11:09 PM   #3139
oldmanair
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I found a model 10 or Pre model 10 nickel 5 screw with a 4" barrel sn# 470729. no letter prefix or suffix. Can someone tell me the DOB?
Thanks
The New Guy
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Old July 8, 2010, 07:58 AM   #3140
FlyFish
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T_hess: You have a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 - 3rd Change (pre Model 10) from between 1909 (starting SN 146900) and 1915 (ending SN 241703).

oldmanair: Yours is the same gun (in your case 4th Change, however) and the SN places it in the wide range listed in SCSW from 1915 (SN 241704) to 1942 (SN 700000). You can interpolate between those numbers and get a closer approximation to the actual year of production, but it will only be an estimate. The book lists the nickel finish as being worth a premium, btw.
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Old July 8, 2010, 08:33 AM   #3141
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FlyFish
Thank you SO much for the info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old July 8, 2010, 10:58 AM   #3142
labratt104
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Smith and Wesson Model 17-3

Serial number 8K53xxx

Can anyone tell me the year of manufacture?

Thanks in advance
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Old July 8, 2010, 11:01 AM   #3143
T_hess
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FlyFish, thanks for the fast response. Is there any specifications on ammo to use, should i stay away from +p loads? Im sure i will anyways, but just wondering for safety reasons. Also, do you think its possible to estimate a value? Thanks a lot
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Old July 8, 2010, 03:52 PM   #3144
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T_hess: S&W didnt' start heat treating the .38 M&P cylinders until around SN 316000, so I would advise against shooting any +p in yours. I doubt that the gun is going to kaboom if you do, but a fine old revolver deserves a bit of TLC, so sticking to any standard .38 Special loads would be the right thing to do. Value depends a great deal on condition, so it's not possible to give you a definitive estimate, but if it's in very good to excellent shape you're probably in the $400 to $500 range.

labratt104: 1975
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Old July 8, 2010, 04:33 PM   #3145
labratt104
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Thank you very much. Much appreciated.
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Old July 8, 2010, 08:11 PM   #3146
streetmaster
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AVC7XXX = 1987.
Values range around $300 to $400 depending on condition.
+P's are okay but might accelerate wear with extended use.
CTG = cartridge.
Where would the accelerated wear be concentrated? And how much is "extended use"? I have a good amount of standard .38 special ammo, but I also have a fair amount of +P, should I avoid it when doing target practice? I have no idea how much this gun has been used since 1987. How can I tell?
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Old July 8, 2010, 08:46 PM   #3147
laytonj1
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Where would the accelerated wear be concentrated? And how much is "extended use"?
Good question. With my brothers gun it showed up as excessive endshake. But, that was after shooting almost 2000 very hot (as in stupid), over maximum handloads.
I'm not an expert but I would imagine a general loosening of tolerances due to the metal peening from the heavier pounding the gun would receive from hotter loads.
That said, I have heard many folks claim to have shot thousands of +P loads and have zero problems. After all, some the "K" frame S&W's are also chambered in 357 Magnum...
I guess my thought would be this, if you're just target shooting then why chance it, just use standard 38's. The target won't know the difference.
For personal defense and practice for personal defense then use the +P's.
I wouldn't worry about it too much and I'm sure you'll get allot of different opinions on the subject.

Jim
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Old July 8, 2010, 09:30 PM   #3148
streetmaster
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So basically, the K frame is identical between the .38 special and .357 mag. I think the +P loads are probably mild when compared to the hot loads made by re-loaders making their own. I just want to practice shooting with +P's AND standard .38 specials so I can be proficient with both. Because I know they won't hit in the same place.
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Old July 14, 2010, 11:33 AM   #3149
jcc1100
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Hello...I just inherited a S&W 38 Special model 64, serial number D612xxx. Can anyone provide a year and the best ammo for home protection? Thanks for any help.
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Old July 14, 2010, 06:55 PM   #3150
laytonj1
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S&W 38 Special model 64, serial number D612xxx.
Serial numbers ran from D510001 in 1973 to D659901 in 1974.

As far as defense ammo goes there are allot of differing opinions. Me personnally, I use Buffalo Bore:
38+P would be safe in your 64,
http://www.buffalobore.com/index.php...duct_list&c=22
And standard 38 for aluminum guns,
http://www.buffalobore.com/index.php...duct_list&c=23

Jim
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