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Old June 11, 2007, 01:02 PM   #1
V4Vendetta
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How do you bolt down a safe?

I purchased this safe from Dick's sporting goods a while back.

http://www.stack-on.com/securityplus...-16blk-cb.html

I looked at the bottom & saw no holes to put bolts through & it did not come with any.

What do I do?

Thanks for the help.
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Old June 11, 2007, 01:21 PM   #2
SOSARMS
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Think i'd try super glue !!



Sorry....had to do it....
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Old June 11, 2007, 01:23 PM   #3
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That does not look like the type of "stack on" that you bolt to the wall or floor. That looks like a gun safe, not a gun locker.
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Old June 11, 2007, 01:27 PM   #4
Mike Irwin
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Are you sure there's not a bolt hole in the bottom under the carpet?
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Old June 11, 2007, 01:28 PM   #5
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it looks like you are going to be spending some time with a good quality drill and a sharp drill bit....

Buy quality hardware to bolt it down. You would be surprised at what thieves can steal no matter how heavy it is.
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Old June 11, 2007, 01:30 PM   #6
V4Vendetta
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Quote:
That does not look like the type of "stack on" that you bolt to the wall or floor. That looks like a gun safe, not a gun locker.

:barfon't tell me I spent $350 on a cabinet. Lie if you have to but don't say that. To the some people that's a small amount but to me it's like a billion dollars.

If it's not built to be bolted down, is there a way to weld something to it or to fix it so that it can be bolted to the floor.

EDIT: Mr. Irwin, that was the first thing I checked.
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Within each one of us there is a inch of hope, of will, of integrity. We must never lose or give away that inch. For within it we are free.
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Old June 11, 2007, 01:35 PM   #7
MDman
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I have got a double door 10 gun locker from stack on, and was going to bolt it down till I realized how heavy it was with my stuff in it. Put a few thousand rounds into the safe and I doubt anyone is going to move it.

and I am not saying you bought a gun cabinet or locker, I am saying you bought a safe. I was under the impression you did not bolt those to the floor due to their weight.

Last edited by MDman; June 11, 2007 at 01:49 PM. Reason: oops
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Old June 11, 2007, 01:47 PM   #8
V4Vendetta
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The safe is fairly heavy but it's not THAT heavy.
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But I being poor, have only my dreams. Tread softly. Because you tread on my dreams.

Within each one of us there is a inch of hope, of will, of integrity. We must never lose or give away that inch. For within it we are free.
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Old June 11, 2007, 01:56 PM   #9
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If your sure there aren't any predrilled holes in the bottom...I would give Stack-On a call...see what they suggest. If you don't get anywhere with that drill four holes in each corner of the bottom. In my safes I use half inch concrete anchors...they look like threaded bolts with a "nail" on top that you drive down into the anchor body once it is in position. Of course you will have to drill holes into the concrete floor using a concrete drill bit and preferably a hammer drill first.
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Old June 11, 2007, 02:13 PM   #10
tulsamal
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I had to dig through some stuff to find the bolt holes in my safe. Just to be sure you aren't missing them, why don't you tilt the safe over and look at the bottom? It should be obvious then whether it is pre-drilled or not!

Gregg
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Old June 11, 2007, 02:30 PM   #11
V4Vendetta
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I'll double check that when I get home tonight gregg.
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Old June 11, 2007, 03:37 PM   #12
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I read somewhere that most gun "safes" sold in the US today are really only qualified as lockers. They're not constructed in a manner that meets the definition of a safe.
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Old June 11, 2007, 04:02 PM   #13
wayneinFL
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If you're sure there are no holes in the bottom, You'll have to drill some holes. If it's anything like my Sentry the bottom is soft steel and easy to drill.

I don't know what kind of floor you have, but my safes are bolted to concrete. I usually use the 1/2" anchors I use at work. But I think one of my safes is bolted down with tapcons, anmd I don't think anyone os going to pull that one off the floor.
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Old June 11, 2007, 08:54 PM   #14
Hedley
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The body's skin is probably 12 ga at best, so drilling would be easy. Just make you a hole.
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Old June 11, 2007, 09:32 PM   #15
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get a nice hardened bit and drill some mounting holes
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Old June 12, 2007, 01:15 AM   #16
cloudcroft
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MDman,

Don't underestimate thieves...one of them can handle at least a 350-pound safe, a couple of guys can do better.

Rememebr the rule: If your safe weights less than your car, bolt it down. Fill it with heavy stuff, yes, but still bolt it down...and/or bolt multiple safes together.


V4Vendetta,

There probably ARE bolt holes under the carpeting...I have never seen a safe like that come without holes as the makers KNOW they have to be bolted down. Even my 1000-pound Liberty came with pre-drilled holes.

Stack-On safes (Sports Authority carries them also) are almost identical to Sentry safes (WalMart has those). In fact, from what I can tell, both are probably made in the very same factory. The Sentry safes come with holes in the bottom and back...I am sure the Stack-On safes do, too.

Get back to us and let everyone here know...

[EDIT: It says here there are "Pre-drilled mounting holes for easy attachment. Fastening hardware is included." -- http://www.stack-on.com/securityplus...fes/index.html ]



Hedley,

The bottom of the safe is probably thicker steel...maybe 3/16" or 1/4", unlike the sides.

-- John D.
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Old June 12, 2007, 06:15 AM   #17
Hal
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"Don't tell me I spent $350 on a cabinet. Lie if you have to but don't say that"

&

"I read somewhere that most gun "safes" sold in the US today are really only qualified as lockers. They're not constructed in a manner that meets the definition of a safe."

What you have is not a safe - probably not a cabinet either.

It's a residential security container.

A fellow TFL member, who's in the safe business, went into great detail about the differences.

(Don't feel too bad though,,,most of the "safes" sold are also residential security containers - including my $900 Browning.)

More to the point - the strength of these "containers" is their deterrent effect. They aren't secure in the sense that they can't be broken into. They can be. What you want to do is make it as time consuming as possible to break it open, or tear it loose and drag it away.

Secure it to both the floor and if possible a wall behind it. Place it so that someone with a pick axe can't get a good swing at the top &/or sides/back and a cable can't be looped around it and attached to a come-along.

Two smaller "safes" bolted together are better than one large one.
Why? Simply because bolted together they can't be rolled/moved through a doorway.

Thieves - in general - want quick in, quick out. Make it as time consuming and attention drawing as possible for them to get into or drag off your "container".

OR

Pony up a few grand and a few hundred for a real "safe".
$350 should just about cover part of the cost to have someone move it into place for you.

"Rememebr the rule: If your safe weights less than your car, bolt it down. Fill it with heavy stuff, yes, but still bolt it down"

I've got $5.00 that says that with a $20.00 come-along I could tear out and move even the heaviest RSC.

I'm not saying that to be argumentative.

My Browning weighs ~ 600 lbs. with the door on. I had 2 guys at the gun shop help me load it into the back of my truck.
I moved it off the truck, across the living room, down the stairs into the family room and across the floor of the family room all by myself. W/out the aid of anything except my own two hands. & I'm an "old guy" that's really fat and out of shape.
Leverage and balance are the keys - plus the time to put them to good use.

Yes - I moved it myself - but - it took a couple/three hours.
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Old June 12, 2007, 08:25 AM   #18
V4Vendetta
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Thanks for the help folks. I looked at the bottom of the safe last night & sure enough there were holes already in the bottom. Someone had covered them with black tape that blended in perfectly with the floor & my flashlight was low on batteries.

Now I just need to go get the bolts as they did NOT come included. It doesn't help that the owner's list they gave me was in Spanish only. Fortunately numbers are the same as in English or otherwise I'd have never gotten the thing open.
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But I being poor, have only my dreams. Tread softly. Because you tread on my dreams.

Within each one of us there is a inch of hope, of will, of integrity. We must never lose or give away that inch. For within it we are free.
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Old June 12, 2007, 11:47 PM   #19
cloudcroft
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V4Vendetta,

You're welcome.

BTW, I would use better bolts than what usually come with such safes/RSCs...longer and thicker ones to be sure with some serious washers (large fender washers if possible)...and serous bolt-anchors.

Also, put the safe in a CORNER so it has to be pulled toward the thief rather than in the middle of a wall where a thief can rock the safe (push it) and break loose the bolts using leverage...unless you are bolting it to the wall (most safes like these have holes in the back, too) instead of the floor...or do both.

And I was going to say, for the size safe/RSC you got and paying $350 for it, no, you didn't get a sheet-metal gun cabinet...they're much cheaper.

Good luck,

-- John D.
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Old June 13, 2007, 12:00 AM   #20
Mike Irwin
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One final thought...

Use 4 bolts, one in each corner. A 5th bolt in the center would provide all that much more protection against it being ripped from the floor, as well.
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Old June 13, 2007, 11:15 AM   #21
brickeyee
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Wedge anchors or sleeve anchors have about the best withdrawal ratings.
Larger sizes of these are used to retrofit guard rails on highways.
Use the largest size that will go through the holes in the safe.
They also allow you to position, drill, vacuum clean, and then set the anchors without moving the safe again.

DO NOT use lead shield type anchors. They are VERY weak in tension (produced by prying up the safe or tipping).
The safe itself is all the 'tool' you need.
It gives a nice lever if you push sideways up high on the safe.
A corner is a good location to limit tipping, and anchoring into a wall will help.
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Old June 13, 2007, 07:47 PM   #22
Toolman
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If you have the room, or have a closet that isn't too crowded (yeah, I know, who does) you might consider moving the safe into the closet, bolting it down & framing it in. You can use sliding or bi-fold doors to cover it also.
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Old June 13, 2007, 11:02 PM   #23
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+1 on the washers. Get as big of ones as you can find. I actually cut a couple 4" square pieces of steel and drilled a hole in the middle to fashion really big washers when I bolted down a StackOn a while ago. I was a little concerned that the safe could be pried from the floor. With only the small washers that typically come with anchors I thought they could be pulled right through the bottom of the safe.
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Old June 13, 2007, 11:29 PM   #24
cloudcroft
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Yes, and framing it in forces thieves to attack it from the front, a safe's strongest side becuse there is no access to the sides, back or top.

Also, if the safe will be permanently mounted in a particular location, you can use cut-to-length threaded rods epoxied in the concrete mounting holes (clean holes well and get ALL the dust out first)...that's a good way to resist pulling the mounts out of the holes.

The "mounting hardware" that usually comes with these safes is ridiculous...it IS best to think up a better way and get better bolts, washers and anchors.

-- John D.
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Old June 14, 2007, 02:55 PM   #25
tegemu
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I have one about the same size. I called a professsional locksmith. He came over with all the correct tools and hardware, repositioned the safe and bolted it down, cleaned up and was out the door in about 30 minutes. $83.00 and worth every penny.
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