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Old May 8, 2007, 04:57 PM   #1
Cpl Nobbs
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Case Lubes

been having a little trouble with case lubes for 30-06, using both RCBS and Lee dies. switched from RCBS Case Slick (because the price went WAY up and the amount went WAY down) to Hornaday OneShot (which has resulted in both sizeing dies being sent back to the manufactures to have the stuck cases removed). I like the spray lube. but I need something that is going to be reliable. (unlike OneShot), but a bit more cost effective than Case Slick.

I'm even willing to go home made. any recomendations?

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Old May 8, 2007, 06:31 PM   #2
Ifishsum
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A little tin of (Redding) Imperial sizing die wax will last you years and years and I've never stuck a case with it.
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Old May 8, 2007, 06:41 PM   #3
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is that something that can be sprayed on?
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Old May 8, 2007, 06:47 PM   #4
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Nope, I apply it with my fingers. Haven't had much luck with spray lubes.
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Old May 8, 2007, 06:48 PM   #5
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not my prefered method (space is tight as it is). but from reviews it's at the top of the list. thank you.
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Old May 8, 2007, 07:11 PM   #6
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+1 for Imperial sizing die wax! Not the fastest way to lube cases, but you can bet on that case coming out of the die if it went in.
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Old May 8, 2007, 07:31 PM   #7
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Another is Hornady's "unique" case lube, comes in a small tub. Use it the same way as Imperial. Used both and think that the Unique comes off easier then Imperial.
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Old May 8, 2007, 08:11 PM   #8
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+2 for the Imperial size wax. Rub some on your index finger and thumb and work it onto the case. Much slower than sprays, but I've never had a stuck case with it.
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Old May 8, 2007, 09:28 PM   #9
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Lee dies, Lee lube.
Imperial is also good. And applying with fingers, also gives, you an additional inspection. Before, you jam, that case in the die.
For rifle cases, this is best.
Pistol Carbide dies. Just jam, that case home.
Spray stuff is crap. Too many jammed cases.
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Old May 8, 2007, 09:36 PM   #10
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I use a RCBS case lube pad with RCBS case lube 2. Case Lube 2 is water soluble and wipes off with a damp rag. Might be a little more of a pain than spray on lubes, but I've never stuck a case in the size die either.
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Old May 8, 2007, 09:59 PM   #11
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Why would you send your dies back to the manufacture to remove stuck cases?
Screw the die into the press from the bottom, drill and tap the primer hole out to 1/4" 20.
A 1/4 20 bolt and a couple of washers and you are good to go, or you can buy a kit to do the same.
You are back to reloading in minutes.

I think the spay-on lubes are poor also. I use Lee case lube.
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Old May 8, 2007, 10:31 PM   #12
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If it's a Lee die, loosen the collet nut. And use a 3/16" punch and hammer.
Tighten collet nut. Buy Lee lube or Imperial.
And continue.
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Old May 9, 2007, 10:24 AM   #13
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Case lubes

Cpl Nobbs--One of these fora had a report that Hornady One Shot doesn't work well on .30-'06 specifically. No particular reason, but the report said that it doesn't. No personal experience here with the stuff.

My lubes have been RCBS Case Lube 2, and Imperial Sizing Die Wax. They both are slower to apply than the spray-on, but both work just fine with .30-'06 cases.

This may be one of those instances where the "easy, quick method" just doesn't work as well as taking yr time and doing it right.

I stuck a case once by forgetting to lube it at all. Got it out of the die with a punch. Felt really stupid about it. It happens. Good judgement comes with experience. Experience is what you get when you use poor judgement.
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Old May 9, 2007, 01:01 PM   #14
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I had to send them back to have the case removed because my Hornaday Case Remover didn't. and my gunsmith couldn't. and following the Lee Instructions bent the rod and didn't remove the case.

I've been loading 303 Brit for several years and never had problem one with stuck cases. probably over 500 rounds. not stuck case one. no problems at all until I switched to One Shot because RCBS Case Slick got a much smaller bottle and a much higher price.

One Shot seems to have become somewhat of a topic of conversation at my gun smiths because of all the stuck cases people have been having (seems most had been attributing it to bad dies. but when people began to compare notes the common denominator was One Shot.)

I'm heading to the big town down the road this afternoon, I'll look for some Imperial there.
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Old May 9, 2007, 02:51 PM   #15
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Never stuck a case with Imperial. I've tried some others and still haven't stuck any cases but I think I've saved myself a couple times by paying attention to the stroke and felt it being harder to stroke so backed off. There's a guy calls himself Bullshop up in AK and makes his own lube. I bought some from him and I think its lubricity is better than imperial (judged from stroke hardness) but its tackier and harder to remove.
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Old May 9, 2007, 10:20 PM   #16
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Over the years I've tried about every case lube ever made, then a friend introduced me to Imperial Sizing Wax. It's the best lube on this plannet,bar none.

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Old May 10, 2007, 12:21 PM   #17
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ok, you sold me! now all I have to do is find it. (I'm also going to try a formula I found online for a home made spray, Lanolin Oil and 99% Isopropl, I'll post a report.)
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Old May 10, 2007, 02:26 PM   #18
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I use Hornady's One Shot for all of my rifle cartridge reloading. I use it for 223, 30-30, & 308. I have never had a problem with it and it's easy to use.

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Old May 10, 2007, 04:10 PM   #19
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I mostly use one shot with no problems. I must admit though I keep a tin of Imperial around also.
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Old May 10, 2007, 04:19 PM   #20
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I won't ever use one shot again and I will tell everyone I meet of my troubles with it. nothing but problems with it. I've talk to many other local shooters who have also had rifle case problems with it resulting in badly stuck cases.

I'm glad you guys have been having good luck with it. but like a unrealiable firearm, I won't use it.
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Old May 10, 2007, 05:48 PM   #21
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believe it or not, but I was recommended to try pam on a few cases a few years back. I did on a set of .270 and 308 dies and it worked like a charm. I normally use the imperial or the rcbs, but I have reached in to the pantry at home when the other lubes were out and gave the cases a shot of pam (last time I used it was on a set of .338 win mag nickel plated cases). It works in s pinch.
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Old May 10, 2007, 06:21 PM   #22
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Pam, eh?

Universal Frost--Always nice to know there's a Plan "B" available!

What'd yr wife say when she went to make muffins and no Pam?

And how'd the cartridges smell when you fired 'em--tasty I'll bet!
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Old May 10, 2007, 08:53 PM   #23
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yeah, you have to clean it off pretty well, but it works when your reloading and run out of the "normal" stuff. I would not recommend as you primary lube, but will make do until the normal stuff arrives.
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Old May 10, 2007, 10:13 PM   #24
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Don't feel bad about the stuck case removal. I've had three I can recall, and not a one of them came out by standard means. Stuck case remover just tore the heads off. Same with a punch used like the Lee method. Heating them didn't work, either. Later, I had the brilliant idea to look up the linear coefficients of expansion for steel and 70:30 brass (case brass). It turns out the brass has a slightly greater coefficient. So, what you want to do before applying any removal method is freeze the thing for a couple of hours, then act really quickly to apply the removal method.

As to lubes, I now use a security blanket. I treat all my steel sizing dies with a permenant lube. Both Shooter's Solutions MolyFusion and Sprinco's Plate Plus work. If I miss a case with the lube, these products prevent it from turning into a disaster. Shooter's Solutions has a testimonial from someone who doesn't use case lube at all any more after applying their product. I've been too chicken to try that on purpose.

As to lube itself. I use Imperial on smaller batches. Redding owns them now, and you can buy it direct from Redding or from Sinclair International, among other places. If I am working on the whole season's supply of match ammo, I go with a spray. Make my own. I mix good old STP (blue bottle original formula; about a $1.50 at Walmart) 50:50 with odorless mineral spirits. Spray it on with anything that will tolerate petroleum based paint. I have also mixed the STP 50:50 with bar chain oil (for high tack) before thining with mineral spirits if I am going to leave it on the cases for awhile.
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