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Old March 24, 2007, 07:37 AM   #1
pistol-whipped
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Lee .223 factory crimp die?

It seems that my factory crimp die is to long.The shell holder touches the bottom of the die before the brass ever gets crimped.So what am I doing wrong?
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Old March 24, 2007, 09:41 AM   #2
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If I understand it correctly, contact by the die,with the shell holder, is what "activates" the crimping action. The more you screw it in, the stronger the crimp.
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Old March 24, 2007, 11:26 AM   #3
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I agree but mine never touches my shellholder.
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Old March 24, 2007, 01:04 PM   #4
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Are you sure you have the right die? I use the Lee FC die for my 223 and it contacts the shell holder before the ram is at the top of it's stroke. As it continues, the crimping process begins as the collet is squeezed into the neck of the cartridge. If your "die" doesn't contact the shell holder you may have the wrong die or your round is too long (OAL).
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Old March 24, 2007, 03:51 PM   #5
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Let me get this straight...the shell holder is supposed to contact the bottom of the die?About how much of the case neck is supposed to come through the other side? It seems that the crimp just slightly touches the case neck before I bottom out.Is that enough?
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Old March 24, 2007, 04:24 PM   #6
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I've got my .223 LFCD set in a Loadmaster Progressive. From the top of the lock nut, to the top of the die is .753". I'm trying to apply a crimp heavy enough to prevent set back in a Semi Auto.

If you don't contact the shell plate it cannot work, as the amount of force the bottom of the die receives , dictates how far in, the "fingers" pinch the case(visible if you look down into die.)
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Old March 24, 2007, 04:28 PM   #7
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I don't recall mine touching but I set it up to just barely close the brass over the bullet, not to really put a strong crimp on it.
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Old March 24, 2007, 04:29 PM   #8
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what are you doing wrong?

you should have bought a quality die.
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Old March 24, 2007, 04:44 PM   #9
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Ok,If I can't push the bullet back into the case with my fingers,so I assume that the crimp works.Now..How do I know how much or how little.These rounds are for a semi so I need a heavy crimp,right?
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Old March 24, 2007, 05:19 PM   #10
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I've been playing around with the "how much" crimp thing. So far, I can move them all pushing against a hard surface IF they have a Canalure. Those without a Canalure seem to hold and don't move.
I'm half tempted to go back to Roll Crimping ----But probably won't.
Lee wouldn't have put this on the market if it wasn't effective.
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Old March 24, 2007, 05:45 PM   #11
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I agree,Lee has always been good to me so far.
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Old March 24, 2007, 07:19 PM   #12
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The instructions say to get contact with the shell holder, then screw in a half turn, then try a sample crimp, and adjust (in, no doubt) from there. My hunch is you didn't go the extra half turn before trying to crimp...? As long as you have threading left on the die to screw it down more, you should have no problems.

The instructions also say that variations in brass length, so long as within trim-to specs, is not critical. Too short, Lee says, cartridges will not crimp. Too long, look out.

I have lee fcd for 4 pistol cartridges (9mm, .357 sig, .40, .45), and also for the .223, although I haven't used it for the .223 yet. I have used the others. At least as far as the pistol cartidges go, I am not convinced they offer a serious advantage over the taper crimp you get with a standard seater die, but they do give a bit more control over the seating and crimp stages, and they're cheap. I got the .223 fcd because I am going to reload semi auto cannelured rounds. I don't see any point to it for a bolt action.
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Old March 25, 2007, 03:04 AM   #13
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That's why I bought one,for AR target rounds.Everyone said it was better and made more accurate ammo.Once I paid close attention that the die flexes under pressure then it all made sense.
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Old March 25, 2007, 10:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
That's why I bought one,for AR target rounds.
I never crimp my target rounds. I thought target bullets don’t have cannelures. My Sierra Match Kings don’t.
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Old March 25, 2007, 11:58 AM   #15
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OK, I'm an idiot, mine touches...disregard ,my last brain fart comments.
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Old March 26, 2007, 08:45 PM   #16
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[enstorm]At least as far as the pistol cartidges go, I am not convinced they offer a serious advantage over the taper crimp you get with a standard seater die[/quote]

I also use the LEE FCD for 9mm. It doesn't use a collet to apply a taper crimp, just a "slug" that is pressed over the bullet and the mouth of the case to apply the crimp. What I like about the Pistol FCD is that it sizes the full length of the case after the bullet is seated. It "irons out" any bulge that may occur when the bullet is seated and insures that the round will chamber properly. No more need for a case gauge and no more FTF's.
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Old March 27, 2007, 09:55 AM   #17
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Quote:
Everyone said it was better and made more accurate ammo.
Not likely that "everyone" said that, as practically NOBODY crimps for competition.
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Old March 27, 2007, 11:15 AM   #18
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I use the Lee FCD for all pistol loads, and all 5.56X45 and 7.62X51.

And everyone that reads this forum knows how low my opinion of Lee is. So that tells you a lot about the FCD when an unabashed Lee basher uses a dozen of them.

Now if Redding made a FCD,......aw hell, let's not go there!
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Old March 27, 2007, 04:37 PM   #19
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Now if Redding made a FCD,......aw hell, let's not go there!


+1
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Will work for brass.

I apologise in advance for spelling errors.
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