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Old March 3, 2007, 01:43 PM   #1
KDM
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Reloading ???...no laughing!

Just starting to get into reloading, and I mean "just starting". I have no knowledge base. I know what a reloading press and dies look like , but that's about it. I'd like to reload for my 375 H&H, a CZ550.

I was given an RCBS Rockchucker, Lyman Universal case trimmer, Lee primer tool, and other sundries. Purchased an RCBS 2-die set, the proper size shell holder, an RCBS caliper, a Barnes reloading manual, and the correct pilot for the case trimmer. Think I have most of what I need, 'cept components.

My question is this (finally)...where can I find info about reloading the 375 H&H, specifically? The Barnes book gives recipes, but nothing on how to set up. RCBS's info pamphlet is too generalized. I'd like to know: taper, roll, or no crimp; resizing requirements; proper bullet seating and headspacing; other important stuff I know I'm neglecting. Again, really basic stuff. Don't need a treatise, just info that'll get safe (for me and the rifle) loads.

BTW, in amongst that box of reloading stuff I was given was a boatload of 270 Win bullets... 90-160 grains, mostly Sierra with a couple boxes of Speer and a partial Hornady. All the boxes are open, but appear to be mostly full
(80% +). Anybody want 'em? I won't use them...$20 and you pay shipping.
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Old March 3, 2007, 02:05 PM   #2
mrawesome22
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I've heard most people start out with The ABC's of reloading. I just did a bunch of reading here and when I had a question just asked these nice folks and had answer's in no time. Sounds like you have most of the stuff you'll need minus a scale. And components of course. Do you have case lube? You'll need that too. You probably won't be crimping. You can if you want. But most people don't with bolt action rifle cartridges. I would not have bought that Barnes book unless you plan on only using Barnes bullets. I buy these little pamplets called One Book/ One Cartridge. They have photocopies of all the bullet makers load data from each manufacturers book. They are only like $6. They also have powder manufacturers data so you can compare all the different data. Bullet seating will be determined by how close you want the bullet from the rifling. And that is determined by which OAL (over all length) is most accurate for your rifle. Here's a great way to determine where to start with OAL.

Take a empty case. Cut a vertical slit in the neck, barely into the shoulder, with a hacksaw. Barely seat the bullet you want to use in this case with your hands. Chamber this round in your rifle. Eject it with your hand covering the ejection port. Take it out and measure it from base to tip with your calipers. This will give you MAX OAL (over all length) for that bullet. In other words, this bullet is touching the rifling. Now you can experiment with different seating depths. I've found that my rifle usually gives best accuracy .030" away from the rifling. But you'll just have to experiment as to what shoots the best out of your gun. This method works very well and you don't have to waste money on a Stoney Point guage.

Good luck and we'll wait for all of your questions to start rolling in LOL.
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Old March 3, 2007, 02:07 PM   #3
Mike Irwin
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You absolutely need a scale.

I suggest one of the RCBS models.

Different powder manufacturers have reloading information on their websites.

The Hornady reloading manual gives some very good step by step instructions, as well.
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Old March 3, 2007, 07:41 PM   #4
FM12
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Don't do ANYTHING without a scales setup...NOTHING!! Make sure you are using the proper powder charge!!
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Old March 3, 2007, 07:46 PM   #5
KDM
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Oh, no way! I might not know my way around a reloading bench yet, but I'm versed enough to know what an overcharged cartridge can do. Forgot to mention I received a scale as well...not too confident in its accuracy, so I'll be hitting MidwayUSA shortly. Thanks for the concern.
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Old March 3, 2007, 08:15 PM   #6
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I would go buy a Speer 13 reloading manual and read the "how too" section in the front of the book. I suggest the Speer 13 because they use real rifles and pistols for their load testing unlike some of the others who just use a universal receiver. I started with a Speer 10 and needed only to read the "how too" section to make my first loads in '06. If you question your scale maybe a set of check weights might be a good idea.

Be sure to follow the safety steps when working up loads. Those who go right to the top of the chart often find they are in trouble..... Remember you are your own QC. Load sloppy and you will have sloppy ammo.

Keep a note book on your reloads. After you have been reloading for awhile you can use it for trouble shooting and it will help keep you from repeating mistakes.

You don't have to reload a whole box of 50 to try out a load. I load a mim of 5 to check to make sure the load is safe. When working up for group size, I load ten to give me 2 groups of 5.

Don't get all tightened up when different charges show a difference on the target even though you scope is sighted in.

I find a load my rifle likes and stay with that load. Primers can also make a difference on group size as does bullet seating depth.

Quote:
This method works very well and you don't have to waste money on a Stoney Point guage.
I went about it a little differently until I got the stoney Point gauge. I've found for me it's hardly a waste of money and use it everytime I load for long range with my AR.


As a reloader, you will find you will look at a rifle or pistol a little different as you know a set of dies will make it easy to shoot.

Good luck
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Old March 3, 2007, 09:12 PM   #7
Dave R
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+1 On Speer No. 13. The How to section is well done.
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Old March 4, 2007, 12:03 AM   #8
armedtotheteeth
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Get a powder drop and a trickler. I loaded for a long time using a piece of paper to trickle powder into my scale. What a damn waste of time. I got smart and invested $50 in a RCBS powder drop and trickler. I set the drop to drop about .3 grains less than the load i want, then i use the trickler to "tweak" it in. I do this for all loads of rifles. Pistol rounds i am a bit less picky with. But still try to get them very close. My drop is usually within .2 grains every time. That is why I use the trickler.

OH BAD bad stuff happens if you shoot a bullet that is too long in your rifle. Just check your OAL vedy vedy closely
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Old March 4, 2007, 09:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Forgot to mention I received a scale as well...not too confident in its accuracy, so I'll be hitting MidwayUSA shortly. Thanks for the concern.
Get a set of check weights when you order your scale.
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Old March 4, 2007, 10:13 AM   #10
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There is a sticky for new reloaders at the top of the forum. Read through that and buy a couple of the books it lists to learn what all is involved in reloading. Once you're done with that, you'll have a lot better idea what you're wanting to do and what to consider related to equipment you don't have now that you'll need.

I would also suggest getting a Hornady Lock N Load bushing conversion kit for your Rock Chucker. You replace the reducer bushing in the top of the Rock Chucker with the Hornady bushing and then you can use the Hornady Lock N Load bushings to set your dies up once, then quickly remove and replace them with a twist and click. Saves a lot of time changing dies on a single stage press.

Regards,

Dave
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Old March 4, 2007, 10:21 AM   #11
KDM
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Thanks, you guys. I'll check out the sticky, then get the Speer #13. I found a 300 H&H / 375 H&H reload book at MidwayUSA...it got poor reviews, but I'll pick it up as well.
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Old March 4, 2007, 10:25 AM   #12
Gbro
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The last time i reloaded 375 H&H was the 1st time i did compression loads, That did result in a mild case of the "pucker factor" at the range.
What kind of scale is with your gear? as from the sounds of it you acquired some quality equipment.
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Old March 4, 2007, 11:22 AM   #13
Dondor
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Get at least two good reloading books if it hasnt been stated already.

My preference is for the Speer and Lyman books. Both are chock full of information.
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Old March 4, 2007, 11:44 PM   #14
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I am going to start loading .270 win. I have both the Lyman and Speer books. Just re-read the rifle loading section the other night. It really helped me a lot, not only on what I need but also how to do it. Ended up spending a large amount of cash at Midway.

PS About how many .270 bullets are we talking about? I will take them for $20 plus shipping. (you can PM me)
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Old March 5, 2007, 07:07 AM   #15
wicker
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My first reloading information, when I began loading as year ago, was in the form of the Lyman 48th Edition Rleoading Handbook. It was very informative. I liked the fact that the manual contained loads for bullets from many different companies, not just Lyman's.

Of the books I've seen it's the one I'd recomend as a first.
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Old March 5, 2007, 08:17 AM   #16
Vartarg
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Sierra

Sierra produces an excellent "how to" video....the "advanced" one by David Tubbs is very helpful, and gives a beginner a good visual picture of what's what......
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Old March 11, 2007, 08:05 PM   #17
jsflagstad
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I Like the Lee book

The Lee 2nd Edition manual is very complete and very good, and very inexpensive....

JSF
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Old March 11, 2007, 08:41 PM   #18
nikandr23
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toGoogle..
nice looking page..
http://webpages.charter.net/375magnum/load.htm

tables for different bullets, powder.. Velocity
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Old March 13, 2007, 07:33 AM   #19
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The NRA does have some reloading instructors and one might be in your area. If you think they might be helpful check and see if there's one near you.
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