J Frame hammer replacement

Tom2 · November 6, 2005, 08:39 PM

I just got a 36-1 with the 3 inch barrel, cheap, something I have wanted in the past. The gun is in excellent shape, but the previous owner bobbed the hammer for CCW training. But it was cheap, and I could not resist. I have worked on my other J frames in the past, mostly disassembly, cleaning, and action jobs consisting of lighter coil springs. Nothing advanced like cutting sear angles or stuff that requires an expert. But I would like to get a new hammer assy. from Brownells and install it to make this gun original config. Are there any problems I will run into with this? I believe it is a later model from the 70's or 80's. Can I expect a factory new or NOS part to be close enough to work OK? Thanks.

greeneggsnham · November 6, 2005, 09:21 PM

shouldn't have any problems, and if you ever want to get rid of it, please put me first on your list. thanks. by the way, may i buy the bobbed hammer from you?

Dfariswheel · November 7, 2005, 01:55 AM

You get no guarantees on "drop-in" revolver parts.

Unlike autos, revolvers are pretty much 100% fitted at the factory.

PROBABLY a new hammer OF THE EXACT TYPE AND VINTAGE of the original will fit without much work, but again, no guarantees.

Occasionally, a new hammer will have problems like push off, or will simply not operate properly without some gunsmithing.

One good move would be to spend $30.00 or so on a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual".

This is a REAL pistolsmith's reference that shows IN DETAIL exactly how to fit a new hammer the right way.

This is money well spent, and even if you never intend to work on a S&W, I consider it to be necessary gear for a S&W owner just for the info on how to check the revolver for problems.

**Mike Irwin** · November 7, 2005, 11:10 AM

"PROBABLY a new hammer OF THE EXACT TYPE AND VINTAGE of the original will fit without much work, but again, no guarantees."

That can't be stated strongly enough. You have to make sure that the hammer is the right period.

Of the 4 hammer replacements I've done on S&W revolvers, as long as the hammer has been from the same engineering change, it's fit and worked well.

As an experiment some months ago I tried swapping out hammers on a 10-3 and a 10-9. No joy.

Tom2 · November 7, 2005, 08:25 PM

Thanks for the replies. I have a copy of the Jerry K. book somewhere around here. Guess I will invest in Brownells new stock part and hope it is the correct one-at least they list it under 36-1. Or I could pimp the gun and get stainless hammer and trigger?-nahhh. Then pearl grips.

(Actually I would like stag horns, but I cant find Sq. butt J types) Has the factory grips-I will at least look into neoprene. Anyway, I will probably put in a spring kit also, and adhere to Jerry's safety checks. And make sure I get good primer hits. BTW I would part with the bobbed hammer. Looks in fairly decent shape for a non smith job? Just a little trace of stub left with cold blue or something on.

November 6, 2005, 08:39 PM	#1
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,644	J Frame hammer replacement I just got a 36-1 with the 3 inch barrel, cheap, something I have wanted in the past. The gun is in excellent shape, but the previous owner bobbed the hammer for CCW training. But it was cheap, and I could not resist. I have worked on my other J frames in the past, mostly disassembly, cleaning, and action jobs consisting of lighter coil springs. Nothing advanced like cutting sear angles or stuff that requires an expert. But I would like to get a new hammer assy. from Brownells and install it to make this gun original config. Are there any problems I will run into with this? I believe it is a later model from the 70's or 80's. Can I expect a factory new or NOS part to be close enough to work OK? Thanks.

November 7, 2005, 11:10 AM	#4
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 14, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 33,157	"PROBABLY a new hammer OF THE EXACT TYPE AND VINTAGE of the original will fit without much work, but again, no guarantees." That can't be stated strongly enough. You have to make sure that the hammer is the right period. Of the 4 hammer replacements I've done on S&W revolvers, as long as the hammer has been from the same engineering change, it's fit and worked well. As an experiment some months ago I tried swapping out hammers on a 10-3 and a 10-9. No joy. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

November 7, 2005, 08:25 PM	#5
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,644	Glad someone was reading this! Thanks for the replies. I have a copy of the Jerry K. book somewhere around here. Guess I will invest in Brownells new stock part and hope it is the correct one-at least they list it under 36-1. Or I could pimp the gun and get stainless hammer and trigger?-nahhh. Then pearl grips. (Actually I would like stag horns, but I cant find Sq. butt J types) Has the factory grips-I will at least look into neoprene. Anyway, I will probably put in a spring kit also, and adhere to Jerry's safety checks. And make sure I get good primer hits. BTW I would part with the bobbed hammer. Looks in fairly decent shape for a non smith job? Just a little trace of stub left with cold blue or something on.

November 6, 2005, 09:21 PM	#2
greeneggsnham Member Join Date: October 19, 2005 Posts: 85	shouldn't have any problems, and if you ever want to get rid of it, please put me first on your list. thanks. by the way, may i buy the bobbed hammer from you?

November 7, 2005, 01:55 AM	#3
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 6,575	You get no guarantees on "drop-in" revolver parts. Unlike autos, revolvers are pretty much 100% fitted at the factory. PROBABLY a new hammer OF THE EXACT TYPE AND VINTAGE of the original will fit without much work, but again, no guarantees. Occasionally, a new hammer will have problems like push off, or will simply not operate properly without some gunsmithing. One good move would be to spend $30.00 or so on a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual". This is a REAL pistolsmith's reference that shows IN DETAIL exactly how to fit a new hammer the right way. This is money well spent, and even if you never intend to work on a S&W, I consider it to be necessary gear for a S&W owner just for the info on how to check the revolver for problems.