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Old September 13, 2005, 01:01 PM   #26
zeisloft
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123, I'm no salty dog at this but this is the stepwise loading process I have come to figure works best (for me). It seems to streamline the process and (for me)saves time and $. The most important thind (for me) is seating depth. Use a comparator as discussed above as the OAL of the bullet will vary from type to type and lot to lot. But the ogive is the same. You dont need all the fancy tools, but they help. Seat a "dummy round" (no primer/powder) further out than you expect necessary. Color the bullet either with a sharpie marker of by holding it over a candle to put a soot residue on it. Chamber the round and extract it, you will notice the color is rubbed off at the ogive of the bullet. Seat it a bit deeper and color it again, repeat till you are barely rubbing the color off.
Pick a powder, any acceptable powder. pick a mid line powder weight. Load 5 at this seat depth. Crank your bullet seater down about 1/4 turn and load another 5 and repeat and repeat and repeat...I usually make 5 or 6 sets of 5 all with the same powder weight, bullet, primer, and brass. Very important RECORD THE LENGTHS keep good records.
Shoot, and take your time (think cool barrel). Which ever depth gives the best group is the best depth. Dont be discouraged if the best group is 2" and the worst is 5", this is still the best seat depth.
Now work the powder, try different weights and types. Find the best groups then experiment with primers.
Keep us posted with your results. This method has given me groups as small as .1335 out of a stock CZ .222. Good luck.
~z
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Old September 15, 2005, 07:22 AM   #27
Hello123
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Zeisloft, that is a fine reply, thanks. The frustrating thing was that was basically how I worked up my load, only I started with adjusting the powder first. Now I need to rework seating depth, with the bullet shape change that occured.
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Old September 15, 2005, 09:07 AM   #28
zeisloft
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Have you picked up a compairator yet? Trust me, it will save alot of time and components($).
~z
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Old September 16, 2005, 10:39 PM   #29
Hello123
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compairator? What is it?
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Old September 19, 2005, 05:34 AM   #30
Foxman
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The Stoney Point bullet seating comparator and a chaep digital caliper is all you need with a 270 modded case. The instructions are clear and easy to follow and you are using the bullets you are going to shoot.
I use 60grs with CCI 200 primer RP or Norma cases an seat the Hornady 130gr spire point bullet .025" off the rifling. this gives .5" -.75" groups in my rifle depending on how good I am on the day.
The H spire points are very good and cheaper to practice with too. I have killed plenty of deer with these and all have been one shot kills.
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Old September 19, 2005, 11:16 PM   #31
270Win
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my handloads

59.0 grains of H4831SC... Winchester WLR primers... Winchester brass, as well as leftover brass from some surplus ammo I had lying around (HMC, I think). My rifle (Remington 700 ADL) prefers 130 grain Hornadys or Sierras... results in roughly 3030 fps, give or take a few. Very good accuracy - 3/4" at 100 yards from bipod.

This is one of many, but is my favorite. For 150 grain bullets, I decrease to 57.0 grains.
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Old October 23, 2006, 07:42 PM   #32
Hello123
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Load finally complete...

60 grains of H4831SC, 130 grain N. Ball-Tip, Winchester brass, Federal LR primers, total length of 3.374 inches...groups around 1/2 MOA.
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