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Old December 5, 2002, 05:50 PM   #26
AK103K
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Thanks for the tip Rocko. Now where were you when I ordered the 48 sayno's for $84??
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Old December 6, 2002, 01:20 AM   #27
tw1112
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eap

Yeah it was for the new e2e, but their sale has ended and now it is 68.00 so 77.00 shipped. They had it for 61.20. Thanks for the heads up on the other places to buy though!


rocko

Thanks for the tip...I will have to try this out tomorrow.
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Old December 6, 2002, 07:13 AM   #28
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Here it comes. The inevitable Botach post.

I've had good luck so far with Botach; having said that, my next shipment will probably be shipped to Singapore by mistake.

However, you just cannot beat this deal:

http://www.botachtactical.com/streamlight.html
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Old December 6, 2002, 04:01 PM   #29
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I had a good experience with botach too..it was recent. Although one of the products I ordered was not instock, I was promptly notified via email and was able to get my shipment quickly. Then again that's what I heard about them. Sometimes you will get everything....the next you might not.
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Old December 7, 2002, 01:44 PM   #30
eap
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erich, yeah i know. surefire's get confusing cause they have too many damn models, finishes and designs! you have to add $9 for the hard anodize III finish at LPS.
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Old December 7, 2002, 10:25 PM   #31
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Ahhh!

Now it all makes sense! Well, Gina still hasn't ordered, so I'll tell her what to expect - and that she should hurry! (I want my light! )
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Old December 8, 2002, 06:20 AM   #32
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I run a UTL on my USP (got a really good deal from a distributor a couple of summers ago) and a SureFire E1 (I think, the pocket model with 1 123 lithium battery in it) for ~ $55. Own several large MagLites but I have yet to get a decent 2AA MagLite. Sooner or later the small Mags seem to quit working and yes, I know about keeping the o-ring lubed and bulbs replaced. What I am dreading is when the E1's bulb goes out on me. It is more powerful than a 3 D cell MagLite so I am fairly happy with it.
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Old December 8, 2002, 09:41 AM   #33
Size15s
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E1(e) MN01 Lamp Assembly - Reliability and Bulb Life -

The "E Series" Lamp Assemblies (MN01 & MN03) are perhaps the most reliable and stable of all SureFire's Lamp Assemblies.
The way to extend the bulb life is to have a spare and keep it as close to you (& your SureFire) as possible. Simply by carrying the spare, the current bulb thinks to itself - "Well I'm not going to die just to justify my master carrying my mate around all the time!"
If Lamp Assemblies could talk...

Al
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Old December 9, 2002, 10:35 AM   #34
Erich
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eap, I owe you one! My wife ordered me the correct light - I'll have an E2e HA in the stocking come Christmas morning!
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Old December 9, 2002, 05:44 PM   #35
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erich, i'm not sure why but ok! glad i could help, i think.
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Old December 9, 2002, 10:17 PM   #36
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Size15s, thanks for the information. Something else to stock up on, along with lithium batteries.
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Old December 9, 2002, 10:36 PM   #37
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LED flashlights are the wave of the future. Long battery and bulb life, shock resistant, etc.

Here's more than you ever wanted to know:
(scroll down left column to FLASHLIGHTS)

http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledleft.htm
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Old December 10, 2002, 04:55 PM   #38
Size15s
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LED "type" light is the future I agree. However, if you want the same output as incandescent bulbs, you're not going to get any more runtime with LEDs. True, LEDs don't waste battery juice in the form of light-heat, but the electronics needed to regulate the juice in these new LED light also wastes energy - heat too is a very important factor.

It would appear that Luxeons are very robust and one would expect a longer life compared to bulbs. However, I bet as LED technology gets to, and goes beyond the bulb, we'll realise there's no such thing as free light.

I wish I could be proven wrong. I just don't want to get my hopes and expectations up to high.

Al
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Old December 12, 2002, 04:12 AM   #39
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I recently picked up a Surefire E2e SG (satin gray). It's a very nice light (i like the shape of the SG better than the HA model). Picked it up for $58 from brightguy.com

I like it better than my 6z, and it has become my daily carry. Scorpion resides by the bedside .

I keep waiting for a blackout to play w/ all my light toys

Sam
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Old December 18, 2002, 08:03 PM   #40
Zak Smith
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223 -> 2x 123

I tried buying the #223 battery and splitting it into two 123A cells.

Physically, you have to rip the plastic case off. This took a couple minutes and a needle nose pliers.

What you are left with are two 3V cells that are easily removed from the dual housing. They are not insulated, and the main body surface is connected to the negative (-) terminal. This means that if you insert these two cells directly into your SureFire, they will turn on immediately because the cell jackets contact the inside of the tube, which is normally the connection from the negative terminal (through the switch) to the front of the light, and thus the bulb.

So, you must insulate them with electrical tape. Two laters of tape is TOO MUCH and you will not be able to remove them once you've jammed them in there. If any part of the jacket is not covered, there is the possibility the light will become activated if the cells are pushed against the inside of the tube (due to shock, whatever).

-z
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Old December 18, 2002, 08:28 PM   #41
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About the 223's - there seems to be two types of housing. I've seen both types in both Duracell's and Energizers. One type of housing (the one smithz got) is completely solid. The 123 cells in these are uninsulated and the housing itself is somewhat of a pain to get off. The other has two open areas on the sides, running paralell to the two 123 cells. The cells in these are already insulated just like a 123 (except there is no printing on the insulation). These housings are also easier to get off since you can usually start to pry it off at the opening. Still, for the amount of potential money saved is worth the extra time of pulling these apart. It really only takes a couple of minutes per 223 at most and you can easily save $2-$3 per pair.

Unfortunately, if you order online for maximum cost savings, it is pretty much luck of the draw as to which type you get, I guess. I've gotten both types from the same places... Not sure if one design is newer than the others. I've never really had problems with either type, however. So far I've used a single layer of electrical tape as insulation for the uninsulated ones and never had a problem with it falling off. I suppose it could be an issue if you need to leave it in a hot car or something and the glue softens up... I've also meant to try shrink tubing - this will be the best solution, though it will add some to the cost. You also could probably use this to make large cell - use one piece of tubing for 2 or three batteries.

Rocko
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Old December 18, 2002, 09:41 PM   #42
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Thanks for the comments, rocko.

So it looks like the insulated type that you've seen is what we would prefer to get in the #223's: both easier to separate and insulated! Hooray!

When confronted with the "non-insulated" type with the robust shells, an insulator is required to prevent any part of the outside of either cell from touching the inside of the flashlight barrel, which is metal. Failing to do so will cause the circuit to complete and the light to shine.

I just devised a way to "sleeve" the non-insulated cells which is cheap and easy. Find a piece of "Tyvek" that hasn't been chewed up very much. This is the material used by the post office for their "Priority Mail" envelopes. Make sure you use used envelopes, 'cause misusing postal materials is a crime.

Cut a square approx 65mm x 67mm. Two cells are approx. 67mm long. Wrap the square around the two uninsulated cells with the 65mm length around the circumference of the cells. Next, insert the cells into your surefire. Make sure the Tyvek doesn't bunch up, and that it's still covering the leading edge of the first cell, as you insert them. Complete the insertion and close up the light as normal.

You can adjust the "tightness" of the fit by increasing or decreasing the "overlap" of the two ends of the Tyvek square. At 65mm, there's just enough overlap so that the cells will drop out, and I can fish the Tyvek out of the surefire with my finger. Adding a small piece of clear packing tape to "close the circle" and connect the two ends of the Tyvek square added too much thickness, and insertion was thwarted.

Hope this helps.
Another idea I like is some very thin tubing into which the two cells would be inserted. It's going to have to be really thin, as the Tyvek I used was about 0.004 - 0.005" in thickness.

-z
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Old May 26, 2004, 06:29 PM   #43
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I'm gonna buck the trend and not promote surefire, they screwed enough people (like anyone who was a Surefire Dealer who didn't have a Brick and Mortar store) last year they are off my purchase list.

Princeton Tec 40, about $20.00, lifetime warrenty, takes AA batteries. waterproof to 200 feet.

Brinkmann Legend LX, again, $20.00 at Wally World, get your replacement CR123's from www.batterystation.com. I paid $26.00 for 20 inc shipping from Iowa to North Idaho.

Brinkmann also makes a rechargable one but the name escapes me at the moment. Rebel?
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Old May 30, 2004, 06:40 AM   #44
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Like Nanaimo, I'm a bit miffed at SF, though I can't deny that they make a great product. The only model I consider I good buy is their G2Nitrolon, but it really needs to have a lockout tailcap if you want to carry it around.

The best bang for the buck that I've seen, to date, is the Pelican M6 LED light. I just picked one up at the gunshow and I am very pleased with the quality. The red tailcap lets you know it's an LED light and not incandescent (which has black rubber), and this thing is bright!

I don't know if an LED can ever match a regular bulb for brightness, but I would put this light up against my 6P or G2n any day. What brightness the M6led might give up is more than compensated for by the fact that it is an LED, not a breakable bulb, and that it is a better buy. For the same money at the Surefire options, you get two batteries and belt case with the Pelican light.

For house clearing, bumps in the night, and general LE work, the Pelican M6 LED is more than enough. At bad breath distances, the brightness is sufficient to blind and disorient.

Look into it if you get the chance.
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Old May 30, 2004, 08:24 AM   #45
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Well...looking at the date this thread was started I would have to say a lot has changed since then....Surefire has offered up a dozen 123s for 15 bucks on their website and some new technology has surfaced with flashlights...I pre-ordered a new Streamlight Strion which is about the size of a Scorpion but is rechargeable...and the battery is lithium ion (no memory effect to worry about)....it is also brighter than the scorpion and has a metal housing instead of the rubber....check out southwestpublicsafety.com they have them the cheapest I have seen, 69.95 with charger...of course, it is not in hand yet and I pre-ordered mine in April so we will have toi wait and see.

http://www.southwestpublicsafety.com...hargeable.html
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Old June 3, 2004, 08:37 PM   #46
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Quote:
I'm gonna buck the trend and not promote surefire, they screwed enough people (like anyone who was a Surefire Dealer who didn't have a Brick and Mortar store) last year they are off my purchase list.
I agree with that.
Quote:
Princeton Tec 40, about $20.00, lifetime warrenty, takes AA batteries. waterproof to 200 feet.
Brinkmann Legend LX, again, $20.00 at Wally World
Both excellent buys in inexpensive but well made flashlights.

Quote:
The only model I consider I good buy is their G2Nitrolon, but it really needs to have a lockout tailcap if you want to carry it around.
Because of the crappy tailswitch I wouldn't buy the G2 again. Mine went on in my coat pocket and almost set me on fire. The Brinkmann Legend LX is a much better light at a lower cost.
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Old June 4, 2004, 07:41 PM   #47
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Well..I dont like LED's...I do like, for a "house...what if.." light is the Streamlight TL-3. The new Strion is a very well designed light, and I've been using it on-duty for a few weeks, and i've been VERY impressed by it. Highly recommended. It's a bit brighter than a Streamlight Stinger, but not as bright as a 6V lithium powered light, i.e. Scorpion.

--dan
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Old June 5, 2004, 04:46 AM   #48
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For in-house use, I've really come to appreciate my newest acquisition, the Pelican M6 LED. Everybit as bright and well-made as the Surefires, it's a bit cheaper than the 6P and comes with a belt pouch.

Having said that, however, I have modified my M6 by adding a surefire lanyard ring (w/the Suarez finger ring in lieu of the wrist rope) and a Surefire m49 tailcap to replace the oem tailcap. The new t/c has a longer actuating stroke and, being constant-on, has a nice rubber ridge to protect the button from accidental contact. It increases the oal a hair, but it's worth it. Now I just have to find a pouch to carry it on my duty belt.

Box stock, the Pelican light is a dandy. I'm planning on getting at least one more, maybe three.
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Old June 5, 2004, 09:46 AM   #49
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The ultimate flashlight site: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubb...ubbthreads.php

All of the answers are here.
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Old November 26, 2004, 11:23 PM   #50
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I use mostly Surefires. The LED based Luxeon V models (Lumamax series and U2) are my favorite, and I use the L1, L2, and L4 often. With the L2, you have 7 hours of near-constant regulation on low mode (plenty of light for 99% of my needs), and also the option of high mode (very bright, but only 1/2 hour runtime).

I have U2s on order, and I expect to receive the Surefire U2s I ordered within the next two weeks. This is the model that has 6 regulated levels of output and uses a Luxeon V LED emitter.

I will still use incandescents on occasion, including 6Ps, Centurions, and Executive Elites.
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