Barrel floating issues!!

MailleMas · May 2, 2008, 09:08 PM

I have a pre-serial number Cooey model 60 bolt action repeater .22 cal. Tube fed, with a side mounted scope. I was messing about with free-floating the barrel and it turns out that was a REALLY bad idea. The single bolt that holds the action and barrel on the stock is too far forward. I removed the material from the stock before I noticed this. Now when I tighten it down, the action just tips up as the barrel dives into the stock

So apart from grinding my teeth, zip tying it down until I can bed the barrel, does anyone have any ideas for a fix? Beyond that, any tips on bedding it so that it still seats nicely with only the one bolt?

Thanks for any input, I'm kinda stuck atm.

SDLAW · May 2, 2008, 09:50 PM

Several layers of tape in the barrel channel should work for a quick fix.

elkman06 · May 2, 2008, 10:35 PM

Best idea is to get some Brownells acraglass and rebed the barrel. Buy it from Midway. elkman06
You are also gaining some valuable gunsmithing type experience if you value that sort of thing.

MailleMas · May 3, 2008, 01:11 AM

I do plan on rebedding the barrel as soon as I can find some compound. I have a marine fiberglass repair kit, but I assume that will not suffice? Local gun store didn't have a kit. For the weekend, I have just zip tied the action down onto the stock. Seems to sit nice and tight, and the barrel is allowed to float.

I suppose I should bed the action while doing the barrel... Do I just spread on the compound, assemble as normal and trim the excess out?

PS - the experience was why I tried to float the barrel in the first place - already shot well enough for my purposes. (I'd like to say that'll teach me to mess around with stuff that ain't broke, but it won't!) Mostly I wanted to play and figured, why not.

**Unclenick** · May 3, 2008, 12:15 PM

You might want to read up on bedding. The best bedding compounds are epoxy resins filled with metal or other substances such that event the small change in shape that epoxy experiences as it sets is mitigated (the filler means the only shrinkage will be in the resin between the particles and not across the breadth of the material). Probably the only commonly available product that comes close to fitting this criterion is standard slow-setting version of JB Weld (don't use the quick-setting type; it is too weak) or the fiber and metal-filled PC-7 that Ace and some other hardwares carry. A properly formulated bedding material, like Brownells Steel Bed or Bisonite should be tougher than JB Weld and PC-7, but JB can work surprisingly well, at least for a time.

You need a good release agent. It needs to be thin, so it doesn't interfere with the bedding getting up against the gun, but still makes sure the epoxy doesn't stick. Cooking spray, like PAM can work. Many industrial suppliers have commercial formulations. I've had great results using Johnson Paste Wax in the yellow can. Wipe it on thick and let it dry a bit, then buff the excess off.

If you have room in the wood, you can run a Forstner bit into the screw hole from the inside to make a widened recess that will accept a stack of washers. The washers can be built up until they just support the barrel where you want it. This poor-mans pillar can then be degreased and epoxied into position in the wood. The JB Weld can be used for the gluing, though the filler will add a little to the washer stack height, so you may prefer to use a clear slow-set epoxy for the washers, like T-88, which is a slow setting epoxy sold by the Woodcraft chain. Boat supply places, like West Marine also have good epoxies available. The clear stuff will hang onto the wood better. Keep the top washer wiped off and put the JB there. Wax up the screw as well as the barrel and screw it together for about six hours. Remove the screw and pop the barrel back out and look for any excess bedding or cement in spots you want to trim off with an Exacto knife. The Epoxy will still be possible to cut at that point. A week later it will be fully hard.

MailleMas · May 3, 2008, 10:12 PM

Unclenick, thank you for taking the time to post. I will read up more on bedding. Your poor man's pillar idea got me wondering if I could just epoxy 1 washer in and just put another nut on the bolt holding the barrel/action down?

I'm guessing the J-B weld route is the one I'll take, I can't imagine a .22 needed much tougher than that.

MailleMas · May 9, 2008, 01:16 AM

It's done.... some PC-7 and ALOT of Pam and hopefully I didn't stick my gun together!! That's really all I'm hoping for at this point. If the bedding didn't work I can always sand and re-try, so long as the epoxy releases... Wish me lots of luck.

Ifishsum · May 9, 2008, 02:34 AM

LOL I know the feeling of waiting for your first bedding job to dry and hoping it didn't stick to the action. If it doesn't come apart easy try putting it in the freezer (preferably a really cold one) for a few hours and try it again.

Alleykat · May 9, 2008, 09:21 AM

Marine Tex works fine.

MailleMas · May 9, 2008, 05:26 PM

Well, it came apart reasonably well. I think I'll need a touch up coat of epoxy once this one dries (its taking forever, 16 hrs and still a bit gummy). All-in-all I'm happy. I didn't wreck anything and I figure I can always grind it out if it doesn't work lol.

Note: PC-7 and Pam are not a good mix.... The Pam didn't let it release very cleanly. Next time I think I'll try the wax idea.

T. O'Heir · May 10, 2008, 10:57 PM

Geez, it's a Cooey. Bedding it isn't going to make it shoot much better. Mind you, it's a great rifle to teach yourself how to bed a rifle. The principals are the same. Use some folded cardboard(a couple of layers of playing card or cigarette package should do nicely.) in the barrel channel just aft of the end of the forestock for a quick fix. Mind you, barrel channels do not get bedded. Just the action. Even on a Cooey. Then, go buy an Acraglas kit(follow the directions on the box and leave it alone for 24 hours), bed the receiver and put a wee dab of bedding compound about an inch or two aft of the end of the forestock. Don't forget the release agent. You can either remove the trigger group or cover it with plasticene.
Come by here too. http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/

MailleMas · May 11, 2008, 10:16 PM

T. O'Heir - I know its only a cooey, but like you say, a good gun to learn with. Actually, the really funny part is that the dang thing shot extremely well BEFORE all this. Hopefully the status quo will be retained. I really only tried to free float the barrel to see how it went. Note: free floating went poorly. The bedding was just something to make the gun functional again. (well functional and prettier than 2 big zip ties around the action!).

thanks for the invite- I'll see you there.

May 2, 2008, 09:08 PM	#1
MailleMas Junior Member Join Date: April 20, 2008 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 12	Barrel floating issues!! I have a pre-serial number Cooey model 60 bolt action repeater .22 cal. Tube fed, with a side mounted scope. I was messing about with free-floating the barrel and it turns out that was a REALLY bad idea. The single bolt that holds the action and barrel on the stock is too far forward. I removed the material from the stock before I noticed this. Now when I tighten it down, the action just tips up as the barrel dives into the stock So apart from grinding my teeth, zip tying it down until I can bed the barrel, does anyone have any ideas for a fix? Beyond that, any tips on bedding it so that it still seats nicely with only the one bolt? Thanks for any input, I'm kinda stuck atm.

May 2, 2008, 10:35 PM	#3
elkman06 Senior Member Join Date: March 14, 2006 Location: Wyoming Posts: 885	Best idea is to get some Brownells acraglass and rebed the barrel. Buy it from Midway. elkman06 You are also gaining some valuable gunsmithing type experience if you value that sort of thing. __________________ "The right of the citizens to bear arms in the defense of themselves and of the state shall not be denied." Wyoming Constitution Article 1, Sec24 "Better to be tried by 12 than carried by 6"

May 3, 2008, 12:15 PM	#5
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,060	You might want to read up on bedding. The best bedding compounds are epoxy resins filled with metal or other substances such that event the small change in shape that epoxy experiences as it sets is mitigated (the filler means the only shrinkage will be in the resin between the particles and not across the breadth of the material). Probably the only commonly available product that comes close to fitting this criterion is standard slow-setting version of JB Weld (don't use the quick-setting type; it is too weak) or the fiber and metal-filled PC-7 that Ace and some other hardwares carry. A properly formulated bedding material, like Brownells Steel Bed or Bisonite should be tougher than JB Weld and PC-7, but JB can work surprisingly well, at least for a time. You need a good release agent. It needs to be thin, so it doesn't interfere with the bedding getting up against the gun, but still makes sure the epoxy doesn't stick. Cooking spray, like PAM can work. Many industrial suppliers have commercial formulations. I've had great results using Johnson Paste Wax in the yellow can. Wipe it on thick and let it dry a bit, then buff the excess off. If you have room in the wood, you can run a Forstner bit into the screw hole from the inside to make a widened recess that will accept a stack of washers. The washers can be built up until they just support the barrel where you want it. This poor-mans pillar can then be degreased and epoxied into position in the wood. The JB Weld can be used for the gluing, though the filler will add a little to the washer stack height, so you may prefer to use a clear slow-set epoxy for the washers, like T-88, which is a slow setting epoxy sold by the Woodcraft chain. Boat supply places, like West Marine also have good epoxies available. The clear stuff will hang onto the wood better. Keep the top washer wiped off and put the JB there. Wax up the screw as well as the barrel and screw it together for about six hours. Remove the screw and pop the barrel back out and look for any excess bedding or cement in spots you want to trim off with an Exacto knife. The Epoxy will still be possible to cut at that point. A week later it will be fully hard. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

May 3, 2008, 10:12 PM	#6
MailleMas Junior Member Join Date: April 20, 2008 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 12	Thank you Unclenick, thank you for taking the time to post. I will read up more on bedding. Your poor man's pillar idea got me wondering if I could just epoxy 1 washer in and just put another nut on the bolt holding the barrel/action down? I'm guessing the J-B weld route is the one I'll take, I can't imagine a .22 needed much tougher than that.

May 9, 2008, 01:16 AM	#7
MailleMas Junior Member Join Date: April 20, 2008 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 12	Well, there went nothin' It's done.... some PC-7 and ALOT of Pam and hopefully I didn't stick my gun together!! That's really all I'm hoping for at this point. If the bedding didn't work I can always sand and re-try, so long as the epoxy releases... Wish me lots of luck.

May 2, 2008, 09:50 PM	#2
SDLAW Member Join Date: January 7, 2006 Posts: 63	Several layers of tape in the barrel channel should work for a quick fix.

May 3, 2008, 01:11 AM	#4
MailleMas Junior Member Join Date: April 20, 2008 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 12	I do plan on rebedding the barrel as soon as I can find some compound. I have a marine fiberglass repair kit, but I assume that will not suffice? Local gun store didn't have a kit. For the weekend, I have just zip tied the action down onto the stock. Seems to sit nice and tight, and the barrel is allowed to float. I suppose I should bed the action while doing the barrel... Do I just spread on the compound, assemble as normal and trim the excess out? PS - the experience was why I tried to float the barrel in the first place - already shot well enough for my purposes. (I'd like to say that'll teach me to mess around with stuff that ain't broke, but it won't!) Mostly I wanted to play and figured, why not.

May 9, 2008, 02:34 AM	#8
Ifishsum Senior Member Join Date: September 15, 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,033	LOL I know the feeling of waiting for your first bedding job to dry and hoping it didn't stick to the action. If it doesn't come apart easy try putting it in the freezer (preferably a really cold one) for a few hours and try it again.

May 9, 2008, 09:21 AM	#9
Alleykat Junior member Join Date: July 26, 2007 Posts: 3,668	Marine Tex works fine.

May 9, 2008, 05:26 PM	#10
MailleMas Junior Member Join Date: April 20, 2008 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 12	Well, it came apart reasonably well. I think I'll need a touch up coat of epoxy once this one dries (its taking forever, 16 hrs and still a bit gummy). All-in-all I'm happy. I didn't wreck anything and I figure I can always grind it out if it doesn't work lol. Note: PC-7 and Pam are not a good mix.... The Pam didn't let it release very cleanly. Next time I think I'll try the wax idea.

May 10, 2008, 10:57 PM	#11
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Geez, it's a Cooey. Bedding it isn't going to make it shoot much better. Mind you, it's a great rifle to teach yourself how to bed a rifle. The principals are the same. Use some folded cardboard(a couple of layers of playing card or cigarette package should do nicely.) in the barrel channel just aft of the end of the forestock for a quick fix. Mind you, barrel channels do not get bedded. Just the action. Even on a Cooey. Then, go buy an Acraglas kit(follow the directions on the box and leave it alone for 24 hours), bed the receiver and put a wee dab of bedding compound about an inch or two aft of the end of the forestock. Don't forget the release agent. You can either remove the trigger group or cover it with plasticene. Come by here too. http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/ __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

May 11, 2008, 10:16 PM	#12
MailleMas Junior Member Join Date: April 20, 2008 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada Posts: 12	T. O'Heir - I know its only a cooey, but like you say, a good gun to learn with. Actually, the really funny part is that the dang thing shot extremely well BEFORE all this. Hopefully the status quo will be retained. I really only tried to free float the barrel to see how it went. Note: free floating went poorly. The bedding was just something to make the gun functional again. (well functional and prettier than 2 big zip ties around the action!). thanks for the invite- I'll see you there.