Best exterior care for blued guns

Rickmeister · February 26, 2002, 12:55 PM

So, what'll it be? Hoppes #9? Militec? Ballistol? Breakfree CLP? FP-10? KleenBore? RemOil? Mobil 1?...

What do you use to give your blued guns a shiny protective coating? I've heard that some of the above may actually damage the finish. Maybe that's what happened to me. KleenBore told me that their Formula 3 solution is "great" for this purpose. So I used it on my shiny new CZ-75. It now has a matte look---not ugly, mind you; just not what it looked like when I bought it. Problem is, I don't know if this is helping or hurting it.

Any tips?

Coronach · February 26, 2002, 11:03 PM

If its something I plan on handling a lot, I just spray Rem Oil on it and wipe it down. It may not be the best rust preventative, but it will certainly keep corrosion at bay until I handle it again and re-oil it. Plus it is cheap and easy to apply. If the gun is destined to sit unused in the safe for a while, I go for CLP.

Mike

falconer · February 26, 2002, 11:27 PM

I use Balistol spray on the exterior of all my guns. It's a good protective agent.

Nakano · February 28, 2002, 05:28 PM

Try Flitz metal polish. It is a non abrasive type that cleans and protects quite well. It will NOT harm the bluing of the firearm at all. I have used it on a regular basis when I have discovered corrosion setting in after removing the grips from my various blued revolvers. It removes and cleans off the corrosion/ light rust with only some little elbow grease. The proof is the brown on the rag.

It really works.

Nakano

Sierra1 · February 28, 2002, 09:18 PM

To touch on the last post, I use Flitz metal polish, but as a "top coat" I use their Rifle wax. Just like buffing out a car, and if you get fingerprints on the weapon they just buff right out.

Jaywalker · March 2, 2002, 05:20 PM

Breakfree CLP would be best, but it tends to be a little too messy. Oil is traditional, but not even the second best choice now. Apparently, oil tends to trap water underneath in the bottom of the micropores in the steel. The bottoms and the tops of these little micropores then act as small batteries which cretate a (very) micro current flow and result in rust.

Most custom knife makers use a dry cloth from Sentry Solutions www.sentrysolutions.com. Unless you plan on submerging your firearms in saltwater, you won't need the heavy-duty strength the SEALs use. I've used one cloth for years on knives and firearms in a pretty humid climate and have had no problems at all with rust.

You wouldn't want to cut food with something you've wiped down with the cloth, though. Steel and your fingers do retain a distinctive odor.

Jaywalker

C.R.Sam · March 2, 2002, 11:41 PM

Oil traps moisture underneath.
RIG displaces moisture and protects the metal.

I use a little dab of RIG rubbed into the wool of a small piece of sheepskin. Wipe gun down and it is protected. Ultra thin coat will do and not be messy.

Have kept blued guns in good shape in tropics, salt marshes etc. with RIG for over half a century.

Sam

slickpuppy · March 3, 2002, 12:47 AM

Balistol for guns I use a lot. It has been around for 100 years and was originally developed for the German military. The key ingredient in the stuff is medical grade paraffin.

Long term protection for guns I won't use for a few years get a good application of RIG and stored in a corrosion inhibitor bag along with dessicant.

DaHaMac · March 15, 2002, 09:36 PM

I'll ask, what is RIG?

I like the idea of the Flitz Rifle Wax, I'll have to look for some of that stuff.

Ledbetter · March 17, 2002, 02:59 PM

Different from their wax, Flitz polish has removed the blue from a Marlin Camp Carbine I used it on (internal part--doesn't show). It also is not a good rust preventative. The wax may be different.

The sentry Tuff-cloth, recharged periodically with Tuff-glide liquid, leaves the best protection and a dry, won't rub off finich.

Regards.

mdlowry · March 20, 2002, 09:48 PM

Quote:

I'll ask, what is RIG?

I'd like to know too. Can someone enlighten me?

I also shot some lead through a blued revolver and can see some deposited on the front of the cylinder. What would take this off?

bedlamite · March 20, 2002, 10:23 PM

RIG: Rust Inhibiting Grease. Comes in a yellow tube, works great. http://www.silencio.com/

If I'm not going to be using a gun for a while, I'll usually coat it with Sheath from Birchwood Casey. It seeps into the tight spaces quicker

For the lead deposits on the front of the cylinder, I use a brass brush and Hoppe's Semi-Auto solvent.

addecus · March 21, 2002, 01:44 AM

I use B C Sheath . It costs but in a high humidity salty environment, it's worth it.

stanmog · March 21, 2002, 03:47 PM

Renaissance wax. Created by the British Museum to protect their metal, paper, leather and wood collection. It protects against rust, sheds dust and fingerprints, and won't transfer to holster or clothes. www.woodworker.com

Blazer72 · March 21, 2002, 04:41 PM

I recommend Eezox on all finishes and especially the blued finish since it will not even fingerprint when applied correctly.

February 26, 2002, 12:55 PM	#1
Rickmeister Senior Member Join Date: November 23, 2001 Location: Texas Posts: 797	Best exterior care for blued guns So, what'll it be? Hoppes #9? Militec? Ballistol? Breakfree CLP? FP-10? KleenBore? RemOil? Mobil 1?... What do you use to give your blued guns a shiny protective coating? I've heard that some of the above may actually damage the finish. Maybe that's what happened to me. KleenBore told me that their Formula 3 solution is "great" for this purpose. So I used it on my shiny new CZ-75. It now has a matte look---not ugly, mind you; just not what it looked like when I bought it. Problem is, I don't know if this is helping or hurting it. Any tips?

February 26, 2002, 11:03 PM	#2
Coronach Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 1999 Posts: 3,147	If its something I plan on handling a lot, I just spray Rem Oil on it and wipe it down. It may not be the best rust preventative, but it will certainly keep corrosion at bay until I handle it again and re-oil it. Plus it is cheap and easy to apply. If the gun is destined to sit unused in the safe for a while, I go for CLP. Mike __________________ The axe bites into the door, ripping a hole in one panel. The maniac puts his face into the hole, cackling gleefully, "Here's Johnny...erk." "And here's Smith and Wesson," murmurs Coronach, Mozambiquing six rounds of .357 into the critter at a range of three feet. -Lawdog "True pacifism is the finest form of manliness. But if a man comes up to you and cuts your hand off, you don't just offer him the other one. Not if you want to go on playing the piano, you don't." -Sam Peckinpah "A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects." -Robert Heinlein

March 17, 2002, 02:59 PM	#10
Ledbetter Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2000 Location: California USA Posts: 4,533	Flitz Polish Different from their wax, Flitz polish has removed the blue from a Marlin Camp Carbine I used it on (internal part--doesn't show). It also is not a good rust preventative. The wax may be different. The sentry Tuff-cloth, recharged periodically with Tuff-glide liquid, leaves the best protection and a dry, won't rub off finich. Regards.

March 21, 2002, 03:47 PM	#14
stanmog Member Join Date: February 1, 2000 Posts: 19	Renaissance wax. Created by the British Museum to protect their metal, paper, leather and wood collection. It protects against rust, sheds dust and fingerprints, and won't transfer to holster or clothes. www.woodworker.com __________________ SM,MD

March 21, 2002, 04:41 PM	#15
Blazer72 Junior Member Join Date: March 21, 2002 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 6	? I recommend Eezox on all finishes and especially the blued finish since it will not even fingerprint when applied correctly. __________________ Blazer

February 26, 2002, 11:27 PM	#3
falconer Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2000 Location: somewhere Posts: 546	I use Balistol spray on the exterior of all my guns. It's a good protective agent.

February 28, 2002, 05:28 PM	#4
Nakano Member Join Date: March 1, 1999 Location: USA Posts: 72	Try Flitz metal polish. It is a non abrasive type that cleans and protects quite well. It will NOT harm the bluing of the firearm at all. I have used it on a regular basis when I have discovered corrosion setting in after removing the grips from my various blued revolvers. It removes and cleans off the corrosion/ light rust with only some little elbow grease. The proof is the brown on the rag. It really works. Nakano

February 28, 2002, 09:18 PM	#5
Sierra1 Member Join Date: February 16, 2002 Location: So Cal Posts: 55	To touch on the last post, I use Flitz metal polish, but as a "top coat" I use their Rifle wax. Just like buffing out a car, and if you get fingerprints on the weapon they just buff right out.

March 2, 2002, 05:20 PM	#6
Jaywalker Senior Member Join Date: November 16, 2001 Location: Texas Posts: 330	Breakfree CLP would be best, but it tends to be a little too messy. Oil is traditional, but not even the second best choice now. Apparently, oil tends to trap water underneath in the bottom of the micropores in the steel. The bottoms and the tops of these little micropores then act as small batteries which cretate a (very) micro current flow and result in rust. Most custom knife makers use a dry cloth from Sentry Solutions www.sentrysolutions.com. Unless you plan on submerging your firearms in saltwater, you won't need the heavy-duty strength the SEALs use. I've used one cloth for years on knives and firearms in a pretty humid climate and have had no problems at all with rust. You wouldn't want to cut food with something you've wiped down with the cloth, though. Steel and your fingers do retain a distinctive odor. Jaywalker

March 2, 2002, 11:41 PM	#7
C.R.Sam Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Dewey, AZ Posts: 12,858	Oil traps moisture underneath. RIG displaces moisture and protects the metal. I use a little dab of RIG rubbed into the wool of a small piece of sheepskin. Wipe gun down and it is protected. Ultra thin coat will do and not be messy. Have kept blued guns in good shape in tropics, salt marshes etc. with RIG for over half a century. Sam

March 3, 2002, 12:47 AM	#8
slickpuppy Senior Member Join Date: August 29, 1999 Posts: 928	Balistol for guns I use a lot. It has been around for 100 years and was originally developed for the German military. The key ingredient in the stuff is medical grade paraffin. Long term protection for guns I won't use for a few years get a good application of RIG and stored in a corrosion inhibitor bag along with dessicant.

March 15, 2002, 09:36 PM	#9
DaHaMac Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2000 Location: West Central Georgia Posts: 247	I'll ask, what is RIG? I like the idea of the Flitz Rifle Wax, I'll have to look for some of that stuff. __________________ "Resistance to sudden violence, for the preservation not only of my person, my limbs, and life, but of my property, is an indisputable right of nature which I have never surrendered to the public by the compact of society, and which perhaps, I could not surrender if I would." --- John Adams

March 20, 2002, 10:23 PM	#12
bedlamite Senior Member Join Date: August 10, 2000 Location: WI Posts: 1,395	RIG: Rust Inhibiting Grease. Comes in a yellow tube, works great. http://www.silencio.com/ If I'm not going to be using a gun for a while, I'll usually coat it with Sheath from Birchwood Casey. It seeps into the tight spaces quicker For the lead deposits on the front of the cylinder, I use a brass brush and Hoppe's Semi-Auto solvent.

March 21, 2002, 01:44 AM	#13
addecus Member Join Date: January 23, 2001 Location: USA Posts: 87	I use B C Sheath . It costs but in a high humidity salty environment, it's worth it.

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