October 25, 2012, 06:41 PM | #1 |
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pulling bullets ?
I have about 200 rounds of 223 that has the bullets seated too deep. If I pull them with a bullet puller will I have to resize then before reseating the bullets at the right depth ? They are loaded to coal of 2.200 and I want them at 2.250.
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October 25, 2012, 06:56 PM | #2 |
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Are they crimped? You don't need to fully pull them. Using an inertial puller you should be able to get them to lengthen before coming all the way out. A good wack or two should be enough to get them out longer than desired so you can re seat at the desired depth
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October 25, 2012, 07:00 PM | #3 |
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A properly fitting collet puller will also work, I pulled a couple hundred bullets with one, not one mark on the bullets. it's an RCBS collet die.
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October 25, 2012, 07:03 PM | #4 |
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If you do pull them all the way out, you don't have to re-size. You can skip that step. Do remember to add the powder back in the case etc.
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October 25, 2012, 07:17 PM | #5 |
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Ditto on the RCBS press mount puller. It works so smooth and easy and does not mark the bullets. It's only drawback is that it wont pull lead boolits, but that's not your question.
I've always been of the mind that if you pull the bullet that you should resize the case (or neck) again. This may or may not be mainly a confidence thing. I like being meticulous with my hand loads, and especially Rifle cartridges. You could pull the de-capping stem out of your sizer and do them one at a time pretty quickly, dump the powder in the pan and refill when you're ready to seat again. That's the other good thing about the RCBS Collet puller, your powder doesn't get dumped like in a hammer puller. It pulls the bullet nice and easy, and preserves the integrity of the powder charge in the case. |
October 25, 2012, 07:19 PM | #6 |
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If you pull the bullets all the way out, you will end up with a LOT less case-neck-tension than you started with. The neck expands when a bullet is seated, but does NOT spring all the way back, resulting in less case neck tension. It should still be enough to hold the bullet, BUT it won't be the same.
Just dump the powder, then remove the de-prime pin. OR adjust the decapper pin and stem up to where the pin no longer un-seats the primer.
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October 25, 2012, 10:22 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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October 25, 2012, 10:40 PM | #8 | |
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Don't ask how I ended up with so many, its a long story, lol. |
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October 26, 2012, 12:25 AM | #9 | |
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Unless this was for competition or the accuracy difference is more than an inch at 100 yards, I'd probably just shoot them. If they are for competition I'd pull them and start over.
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October 26, 2012, 06:55 AM | #10 | |
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October 26, 2012, 07:41 AM | #11 |
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I second the previous comment and think you should just use a inertia bullet puller from RCBS. Just give the bullet a couple wacks and the bullet will move enough over 2.250 oal and you could then reseat it.
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October 26, 2012, 07:47 AM | #12 |
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Post #2 and post # 6, Rebs don't pull the bullets completely just use that kinetic hammer and adjust them with a couple whacks to the concrete, then reseat at your new COAL.
don't you have any reloading manuals?
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October 26, 2012, 08:54 AM | #13 |
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Yeah, try the kinetic puller. But keep in mind if they are light bullets it may take a lot of whacking to get them to move.
The reseated bullets my shoot no better than the shorter seated bullets. Try a few and check your results before you pull all of them. But I suppose you've figured that part out now.
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October 26, 2012, 09:59 AM | #14 |
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I partially pulled the bullets on a few using a CH bullet puller. When I went to adjust the coal I measured a few and they were slightly over 2.255 so I tried to move them a few thousands with squeezing the caliber and I was able to move the bullet, just by hand. Now I am concerned that they maybe too loose and get bullet set back if I load a magazine and fire them in my AR. At this point I am thinking I should just pull the bullets, dump the powder in a scale pan, resize the cases and then put the powder back in and reseat the bullets. Its more work but bullet set back could raise pressures enough to ruin my day and my gun.
Thank you for all the replies but I am going to play it safe. |
October 26, 2012, 10:11 AM | #15 |
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Rebs if you can move the bullets by hand then don't shoot them, the neck tension is not right. I would use those suckers for practice plinking or what not, but I wouldn't put a loosley tensioned bullet in my rifle.
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October 26, 2012, 12:48 PM | #16 | |
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There is a lesson here and it's being dealt to you in exactly the same manner it's been dealt to all handloaders over time. When you go great gonzo with production and you haven't done your due diligence to ensure that you have exactly the product you want/need, you screwed up. You made a large pile of something that isn't what you truly want because you either skipped a step (development & testing) or you got too excited and you loaded a large mass of something when you shouldn't have, because you didn't test it enough. Boy, I've sure done it. Taking them apart sucks out loud. Very labor intensive and this is labor that's not all too enjoyable. It's a helluva lesson and should keep you from repeating your mistake. It certainly worked on me. My great failure? I thought it would be fun to load cast lead full double ended wadcutters in .357 Magnum to high velocity. I kept upping the powder charge to ensure it was safe and it was indeed safe. So I made 200 of them! Only took about 10 of them to lead the hell out of my barrel. Of course, they were hard roll-crimped and even pounding the crap out of a kinetic puller wouldn't pull those slugs and break them down. How did I get out of that jam? I paid the price for the lesson. I cut the rounds in HALF, losing the brass, dumping the powder, recycling the bullet, still lodged in the mouth of the case. The whole thing was pure rookie foolishness.
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March 16, 2014, 07:04 PM | #17 |
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Good info guys, thanks for posting. I went through this thread in search of opinions about the neck tension being changed after seating and then removing the bullet.
ONE IMPORTANT PIECE OF ADVICE IS THE USE OF SAFETY GLASSES WHEN PULLING BULLETS. GOOD POINT SOMEONE MADE ABOUT THE PRIMER GOING EVERYWHERE IF IT DOES DETONATE. Reb's experience with bullets being movable by simply pushing on them is downright scary. We've all made a "too deep" mistake at some point, so a bullet puller is an eventuality for all reloaders. Took me a decade of reloading to need one. I agree that the neck tension changes. I haven't measured it, but have reseated a few after removal, and it seems to me they actually felt easier to seat. This thread confirms it...removing the decapping pin or backing it out far enough to not touch the primer and resizing the neck is the way to go. Too much time is already spent in homogenizing these rounds to introduce a new variable. Stevens pretty much summed it up. Nice rig you have reb, that shoots .25 MOA groups at 100. .223 is a great round but those 50s and 55s are very sensitive to wind. |
March 17, 2014, 07:01 AM | #18 |
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I'd shoot 'em as they are. Unless you've compared 20-shot test groups with some longer OAL is at least 25% more accurate. Then hope the extra scratching of jackets won't unbalance them any more than they are now.
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March 17, 2014, 09:11 AM | #19 |
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I also think I would just shoot them and reload to the desired length next time. For just blasting away the ones you have loaded are certainly accurate enough for fun at 100 yards, especially off-hand.
I have had a few combinations of bullets and powder that did not live up to my accuracy expectations. I make a note, and send those that disappoint me downrange. Consider it a lesson learned. Punishing yourself over it by pulling, resizing, and reseating 200 rounds makes no sense. |
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