Triple 7 or Pyrodex?

[Abel]

We don't see much Goex or Swiss around here. What results can I expect out of my T/C 50 cal. Hawken and non-black powder propellant?

[kwhi43]

I would use Pyrodex if that's all I could get between Pyrodex & 777.

[Abel]

Why?

[Hawg]

Pyrodex isn't as finicky. 777 doesn't like to be compressed but has to be touching ball. Pyro costs half as much or close to it.

[Abel]

RS or Select?

[Hawg]

I use RS for everything. Some swear by P for pistols but I see no difference. RS is FFG equivalent, P is FFFG equivalent.

[denster]

I like 777 better than pyrodex for several reasons. Clean up is easier, much less corrosive fouling, 777 doesn't go whacky after a couple of months of opening the jar like pyrodex does. Yes you have to be careful not to over compress it but that's not hard. It is more expensive if you pay retail I watch the local Wal-Mart just at the close of deer season and get it on clearance for between 10 and 15 a jar.

[Hawg]

I like 777 better than pyrodex for several reasons. Clean up is easier, much less corrosive fouling, 777 doesn't go whacky after a couple of months of opening the jar like pyrodex does.

Cleanup with Pyrodex is very easy and Pyrodex has an undeserved reputation for being corrosive. I frequently go several days after shooting it before I clean. I've never had Pyrodex go whacky after being opened for long periods.

[wittzo]

777 can't be compressed when loaded in cartridges, but Hornady's load information says nothing about compression in a BP rifle, shotgun, or pistol. You do have to reduce the charge by 15% compared to real BP and Pyrodex.

[Wilkenstein]

I have some pyrodex that's about 10 years old. Shoots just fine.

[Hawg]

777 can't be compressed when loaded in cartridges, but Hornady's load information says nothing about compression in a BP rifle, shotgun, or pistol.

From what I see on different forums it's the same. If it's compressed it's erratic.

[Abel]

Based on what I've read since posting this, Pyrodex Select is just screened more times to obtain more uniform granule size. Basically, its the same as RS. RS must stand for Regular Suff.

[Hawg]

RS= rifle/shotgun
P=pistol

[FrontierGander]

Pyrodex RS without a doubt. T7 leaves a crud ring, makes you swab between shots plus i never had any luck with it. RS also sets off at a lower temperature.

[Ifishsum]

Another vote for Pyrodex - 777 is a bit more powerful and it does seem somewhat cleaner, but it's more expensive and I don't find it superior enough to be worth the cost.

With my T/C Hawken .50 I more often use Pyrodex P when shooting PRBs and RS with heavier conicals, but RS will certainly work fine for both.

I've got a couple of half-used jugs of Pyrodex that are 3 years old and they haven't gone "wacky" in any way at all.

[Pahoo]

What results can I expect out of my T/C 50 cal. Hawken and non-black powder propellant?

How about a Non-Sulphur propellant ? ....
Now, if you had listed an in-line, I would say to go ahead and jump to "White-Hots"
On your sidelock, I would recommend the American Pioneer family or if you can still get it, the BlackMag family. Sadly, BP replacement propellant companies, come and go. So much so that it's hard to evaluate them. You find one, you like today and it's gone tomorrow.


Be Safe !!!

[shortwave]

+1 On the American Pioneer for a substitute in the Hawkins.

I've found it much cleaner than Pyro or T-7, just as reliable and my Hawkin's is very accurate with it.

[andrewstorm]

777 is topps for power and relieability,no sulfer,i like that part because my daughters alergic to it,and its more like smokeless ,kills deer dead

[DG45]

I can't add anything useful but I do have a question. I've been reading this thread and getting antsy because several folks have mentioned that you can't "compress" Triple 7. I don't know what that means exactly, but Triple 7 powder is what I'm using for handloading 12 guage brass shotshells. I've been priming these shells with Winchester 209 shotshell primers, then adding the powder, and then tamping a nitro card in on top of the powder with as much force as I can muster by hand. Then I've been tamping pre-lubed fiber wads in on top of the nitro card with as much force as I can. I don't have any machinery to help me do it, but everything is tamped in on top of the powder with as much force as my 225 lbs can bring to bear on a 12 guage brass dowell. Am I lucky that one of these things hasn't gone off in my face?

[bamaranger]

I do not shoot much BP, but when I do it is out of traditional , side hammer, cap lock rifles. Pyro does not ignite well for me with std caps, in cold weather and hunting conditions. I have never tried 777. But I have muffed 2 opportunites on deer with my T/C carbine, due to hang fires and pyro. And yes the rifle/ig system was right, not plugged, oiled, etc.

But reg BP (2F) always goes bang, right quick.

[Hawg]

I do not shoot much BP, but when I do it is out of traditional , side hammer, cap lock rifles. Pyro does not ignite well for me with std caps, in cold weather and hunting conditions.

Traditional is all I use. I never had a problem with Pyro in cold weather hunting. I'm a lil further south than you but it still gets pretty cold. We've even had snow the last couple of years. That's a new experience, hunting in snow.

[mykeal]

Am I lucky that one of these things hasn't gone off in my face?

Perhaps. Read the loading cautions on Hodgdon's web site for more information: http://www.hodgdon.com/loading.html

[FrontierGander]

white hots are pellets, which would be VERY hard to light off due to the fact there is no powder to shift under the nipple.

American Pioneer is a great powder, but it does have a learning curve to it such as bullet weight, seating pressure and does i need 2f or 3f? I work with it a lot.