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Old August 28, 2013, 07:28 PM   #1
boddah4
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Thinking of Joining the Addiction (with questions)

I am looking to spend up to $300 to get started in reloading (just the equipment, minus dies too.) what is a good "kit" to get or what equipment do I need? I will only be loading a few dozen cartridges at a time. I will probably reload 40 S&W,. 380,. 30-06, and 44 mag. Any links to places I can shop at would be appreciated, along with sharing your wisdom.

Thanks in advance
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Old August 28, 2013, 07:32 PM   #2
boddah4
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In the process in reading the "sticky" but any more help is appreciated
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Old August 28, 2013, 07:52 PM   #3
spacecoast
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My advice is to start slow (Lee single stage) and make sure you're going to stick with it before dropping a lot on equipment. Focus on the handgun rounds to start, they are easier. You should be able to do all the desired calibers plus buy a tumbler for under your budget. Finding powder and primers is a bit tricky right now, but it can be done.
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Old August 28, 2013, 08:11 PM   #4
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I'll be honest here...if 300 is your limit, not worth the trouble. Unless you can find used equipment(or giveaways) and great deals. Also, start looking for powders, primers and bullets ahead of time. A good rule of thumb I went by is, whatever you think startup costs are...DOUBLE IT!
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Old August 28, 2013, 08:11 PM   #5
boddah4
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Thanks, I'll start look for a Lee.
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Old August 28, 2013, 08:18 PM   #6
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Welcome to the Dark Side, LOL! You will discover reloading to be kind of like a sub-hobby and very enjoyable, not to mention a large savings over factory ammo.
I haven't found a reliable online site for items such as bullets and primers. If the item is in stock, it seems you always have to order a 1000 which I can't afford. There are two gun stores close by me in Charlotte and one of them usually has what I'm looking for.
If you would like to order used brass for reloading, I just ordered some .45 ACP from diamondkbrass.com. Prices seemed to be about what everyone else was getting. Shipping seemed pricey but I received my order in only a few days.
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Old August 28, 2013, 08:29 PM   #7
boddah4
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What about http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm...rodID=LEE90928
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Old August 28, 2013, 09:30 PM   #8
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Thanks for asking our advice. Welcome to loading.

I think Swampman1 is being a bit pessimistic. Certainly, you can get STARTED for $300

Dies will set you back about $40 per chambering/caliber. Press, scale, calipers and a few accessories that are absolutely necessary another $100 or so.

Aside from eye protection and manuals, you only need three things (physically) to load good ammo.

Press because fingers are not strong enough to form metal
Dies because fingers are not accurate enough to form metal to SAAMI specs
Scale (or calibrated dippers) because eyeballs are not accurate enough to measure out gunpowder

Everything else can be done without, substituted for or improvised until you can afford to buy good quality gear.

Calipers to check your ammo's dimensions (your firearms' chambers can go a long way, but cannot do all you need). A way to lubricate your (rifle) brass. A way to clean your brass (tumbler is nice, but a soft rag will do). Bullet puller (because sometimes you have to). Stuff like that.

I will post a list of threads shortly. I have not put them up in a while.

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(edited to add) Manuals. While you do not need a book to PHYSICALLY load, you need authoritative sources for load recipes to INTELLIGENTLY and SAFELY load. Almost all manuals also describe the process in the early chapters. And each author puts different emphasis and writes in different "voices", so get to a library and read a few manuals. The reloading steps described have not changed much in the past 100 years, so age of the books is not so important. "ABCs of Reloading" is particularly good, too. No load recipes, but as the title implies, a good overview.

Last edited by Lost Sheep; August 28, 2013 at 09:51 PM.
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Old August 28, 2013, 09:35 PM   #9
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10 Advices for the novice loader

I have thought of a few things I think are useful for handloaders to know or to consider which seem to be almost universally mentioned, so I put together this list of 10 advices.


Much is a matter of personal taste and circumstance, though. So, all advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".


So you can better evaluate my words, here is the focus of my experience. I load for handguns (44 Mag, 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 9mm, 357 Mag, 480 Ruger) a couple hundred per sitting and go through 100 to 500 centerfire rounds per month. I don't cast....yet.


When I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought, at the same time, a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. My setup was simple. A set of dies, a press, a 2" x 6" plank, some carriage bolts and wing nuts, a scale, two loading blocks. I just mounted the press on the plank wedged into the drawer of an end table. I did not use a loading bench at all.


It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly.


I still believe in a minimalist approach and and try to keep my inventory of tools low. I do not keep my loading gear set up when not in use, either, but pack them away in small toolboxes until the next loading session.


Now, here are my Ten Advices.


Advice #1 Use Reliable Reference Sources Wisely - Books, Videos, Web Sites, etc.


Study up in loading manuals until you understand the process well, before spending a lot of (or any) money on equipment.


Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps found in their early chapters. The reason you want more than one or two manuals is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well so give better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others. The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy. Dated, perhaps but the basics are pretty unchanging.


I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Containing no loading data but full of knowledge and understanding of the process. I am told the older editions are better than the newer ones, so the library is looking even better.


There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started, but some are better than others. Filter all casual information through a "B.S." filter.


Only after you know the processing steps of loading can you look at the contents of of a dealer's shelves, a mail-order catalog or a reloading kit and know what equipment you want to buy. If you are considering a loading kit, you will be in a better position to know what parts you don't need and what parts the kits lack. If building your own kit from scratch, you will be better able to find the parts that will serve your into the future without having to do trade-ins.


Advice #2 All equipment is good. But is it good FOR YOU?


Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Generally you get what you pay for and better equipment costs more. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive but not so abrasion resistant as cast iron. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Aluminum generally takes more cleaning and lubrication to last forever. Just think about what you buy. Ask around. Testimonials are nice. But if you think Ford/Chevy owners have brand loyalty, you have not met handloaders. Testimonials with reasoning behind them are better. RCBS equipment is almost all green, Dillon-blue, Lee-red. Almost no manufacturers cross color lines and many handloaders simply identify themselves as "Blue" or whatever. Make your own choices.


About brand loyalties, an example: Lee Precision makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker (though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes, as Lee has been an innovator both in price leadership which has introduced many to loading who might not otherwise have been able to start the hobby and in introduction of innovative features like their auto-advancing turret presses). But there are detractors who focus on Lee's cheapest offerings to paint even their extremely strong gear as inferior. My advice: Ignore the snobs.


On Kits: Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is decent way to get started. Eventually most people wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops (negating the savings you thought the kit gave you), but you will have gotten started, at least.


On building your own kit: The thought processes you give to assembling your own kit increases your knowledge about reloading. You may get started a couple weeks later than if you started with a kit, but you will be far ahead in knowledge.


Advice #3 While Learning, don't get fancy. Progressive, turret or Single Stage? Experimental loads? Pushing performance envelopes? Don't get fancy.


While you are learning, load mid-range at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the mechanical steps of loading right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, bullet seating depth, primer seating force, all that). Use a voluminous, "fluffy", powder that is, one that is easy to see that you have charged the case and which will overflow your cartridge case if you mistakenly put two powder charges in it.


While learning, only perform one operation at a time. Whether you do the one operation 50 (or 20) times on a batch of cases before moving on to the next operation - "Batch Processing" or take one case through all the sequence of operations between empty case to finished cartridge - "Continuous Processing", sometimes known as "Sequential Processing", learn by performing only one operation at a time and concentrating on THAT OPERATION. On a single stage press or a turret press, this is the native way of operation. On a progressive press, the native operation is to perform multiple operations simultaneously. Don't do it. While you can learn on a progressive press, in my opinion too many things happen at the same time, thus are hard to keep track of (unless you load singly at first). Mistakes DO happen and you want to watch for them ONE AT A TIME. Until handloading becomes second nature to you.


Note: A turret press is essentially a single stage press with a moveable head which can mount several dies at the same time. What makes it like a single stage rather than a progressive is that you are still using only one die at a time, not three or four dies simultaneously at each stroke.


On the Turret vs Single stage the decision is simpler. You can do everything on a Turret EXACTLY the same way as you do on a single stage (just leave the turret stationary). That is, a Turret IS a single stage if you don't rotate the head.


Learning on a progressive can be done successfully, but it is easier to learn to walk in shoes than on roller skates.


Also, a good, strong, single stage press is in the stable of almost every reloader I know, no matter how many progressives they have. They always keep at least one.


Advice #4 Find a mentor.


There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technique BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers; 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")


I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. I could have learned more, faster with a longer mentoring period, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. I educated myself after that. But now, on the internet, I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE. But in-person is still the best.


After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.


Advice #5 Design your loading space for safety, efficiency, cleanliness


Your loading bench/room is tantamount to a factory floor. There is a whole profession devoted to industrial engineering, the art and science of production design. Your loading system (layout, process steps, quality control, safety measures, etc) deserves no less attention than that.

Place your scale where it is protected from drafts and vibration and is easy to read and operate. Place you components' supplies convenient to the hand that will place them into the operation and the receptacle(s) for interim or finished products, too. You can make a significant increase in safety and in speed, too, with well thought out design of your production layout, "A" to "Z", from the lighting to the dropcloth to the fire suppression scheme.


Advice #6 Keep Current on loading technology


Always use a CURRENT loading manual. Ballistic testing has produced some new knowledge over the years and powder chemistry has changed over the years, too. They make some powders differently than they used to and even some powder names may have changed. However, if you are using 10 year old powder, you may want to check a 10 year old manual for the recipe. Then double check with a modern manual and then triple check with the powder maker.


Read previous threads on reloading and watch videos available on the web. But be cautious. There is both good information and bad information found in casual sources, so see my advice #10.


Advice #7 You never regret buying the best (but once)


When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy too cheaply it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying for features you don't need. "The delicious flavor of low price fades fast. The wretched aftertaste of poor quality lingers long."


Advice #8 Tungsten Carbide dies (or Titanium Nitride) rather than tool steel.

T-C dies instead of regular tool steel (which require lubrication for sizing your brass) for your straight-walled cartridge cases. T-C dies do not require lubrication, which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.


Advice #9 Safety Always Safety All Ways.


Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers. Gloves are good, too, especially if using the Lee "Hammer" Tools. Children (unless they are good helpers, not just playing around) are at risk and are a risk. Pets, too unless they have been vetted (no, not that kind of vetting). Any distractions that might induce you to forget charging a case (no charge or a double charge, equally disturbing). Imagine everything that CAN go wrong. Then imagine everything that you CAN'T imagine. I could go on, but it's your eyes, your fingers, your house, your children (present of future - lead is a hazard, too. Wash after loading and don't eat at your bench). Enough said?


Advice #10 Take all with a grain of salt.

Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work in accounting and can easily hit "7" instead of "4" because they are next to each other on the keypad.


Good luck.


Lost Sheep
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Old August 28, 2013, 09:38 PM   #10
Lost Sheep
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I have compiled a few web sites that seem to have some good information (only some of which came from me).

Go get a large mug of whatever you sip when you read and think and visit these sites.

Sticky-contains much general information.
For the New Reloader: Thinking about Reloading; Equipment Basics -- READ THIS FIRST - THR
thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=238214

Sticky-contains much general information.
For the New Reloader: Equipment Basics -- READ THIS FIRST - The Firing Line Forums
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171

New guy considering if/how to get started reloading
New guy considering if/how to get started reloading - THR
thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=678589

On the fence
On the fence - THR
thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=678626

"Newby needs help." (A typical new reloader thread). My posts are 11 and 13
Newby needs help. - The Firing Line Forums
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430391

"Just bought my first press. Needs some info tho." (A typical new reloader thread)
Just bought my first press. Needs some info tho. - THR
thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=659358

"I am looking at getting into reloading for the first time" (A typical new reloader thread)
I am looking at getting into reloading for the first time - THR
thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=658971

"Considering reloading" (A typical new reloader thread)
Considering reloading - The Firing Line Forums
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488115

"Interested in reloading" (A typical new reloader thread)
RugerForum.com ? View topic - Interested in reloading
rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543

"Is the lee classic loader a good starter loader?" A thread from someone considering the Mallet-driven Lee Classic Loader.
Is the lee classic loader a good starter loader? - The Firing Line Forums
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497313

"Lee Classic Loader Kit" My post, Minimalist minimal is the seventh post down.
RugerForum.com ? View topic - Lee Classic Loader Kit
rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=107332

"45 Colt question-Lee loader" Another Lee Classic Loader thread
45 Colt question-Lee loader - The Firing Line Forums
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=498638

"Best starter kit?"
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/3325...beginners.html
rugerforum.net/reloading/33252-best-starter-kit-beginners.html

Informed by my 2010 repopulation of my loading bench (If I knew in '75 what I know now)
outgrow-novice-handloader.html
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/2938...andloader.html
rugerforum.net/reloading/29385-budget-beginning-bench-you-will-never-
Thoughts on The Lee Classic Turret Press

RugerForum.com ? View topic - Thoughts on The Lee Classic Turret Press
rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=135951


Use what type of scale? (poll)
Use what type of scale? - The Firing Line Forums
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=448410

Good luck

Lost Sheep
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Old August 28, 2013, 10:00 PM   #11
Lost Sheep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boddah4
While the Lee Deluxe Turret press will do the calibers you listed (40 S&W,. 380,. 30-06, and 44 mag), it has an inch less vertical capacity (which you might notice with the 30-06) than the superior Lee Classic Turret press. The Classic Turret is also stronger and handles spent primers much better among other things. But they do work exactly the same way.

By the way, Lee's turret presses are the only turret presses that feature automatic advancing (indexing) of the turret. Important to some, but not so much if you are only loading a few rounds at a time.

For a decent Classic Turret press kit (including one set of dies) see Kempf's Gun Shop online.

Lost Sheep

Last edited by Lost Sheep; August 28, 2013 at 11:05 PM.
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Old August 28, 2013, 11:25 PM   #12
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Like BobMitchell said, loading becomes a hobby in and of itself (he used the term "sub hobby.") Just look at all the posts in this section of FL.

It's true: You start loading so you can shoot more. At some point, you find yourself shooting so you can load more.

Loading is not for everybody. It takes patience and a tolerance for repetition. But many of the right personality type find it therapeutic. The actual loading is the romantic side of it - that's 25%. The other 75% is brass prep.

I bought an RCBS single stage press in 1984 and have been using it ever since. I have no need or desire to get another. It works perfect to this day. I'm sold on RCBS - just my two-cents worth.

Take an extra moment to be safe; and have fun.
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Old August 29, 2013, 04:27 AM   #13
spacecoast
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Be sure to save $50 or so for a brass tumbler. It will save you a lot of time and energy in processing your range brass.
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Old August 29, 2013, 06:37 AM   #14
boddah4
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You guys are awesome! A lot of reading to keep me busy. I also came across a new Lyman Expert (not Deluxe) I can get for $275.
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Old August 29, 2013, 08:05 AM   #15
Swampman1
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Quote:
I think Swampman1 is being a bit pessimistic. Certainly, you can get STARTED for $300
Dies will set you back about $40 per chambering/caliber. Press, scale, calipers and a few accessories that are absolutely necessary another $100 or so
I may have been, but no point in sugar coating things. Yes, it's a great hobby, but he will find that $300 will NOT get him a whole lot. If he can assemble all components necessary-dies sets(assuming not multiple calibers), manuals, powder, primers, bullets, maybe brass, tumbler, calipers, scale, press, eye protection, possibly case lube and case trimmer and other items that you tend not to think of until you need it, that would be great. My point is...startup will probably be a good bit more than he thinks...be ready for it. Bottom line is...you will enjoy the hobby...it's a fascinating one.
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Old August 29, 2013, 08:18 AM   #16
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I too think your budget is a little low.

If you're going to take the plunge then dive in with the idea of buying good equipment rather than settling for second best. Don't make the mistake of buying junk then wanting to sell it to buy what you should have bought to begin with.

If you want to go single stage, most all of the cast iron O frame presses are equal. Lee, Redding, RCBS, Hornady and a few others.

If you want a Turret I suggest RCBS or Redding. Personally I'd skip the Turret altogether and get a progressive instead.

If you want a progressive press, I suggest you avoid Lee and focus on Hornady, RCBS or Dillon. Lee just doesn't seem to manufacture good progressives.

What ever you decide to buy understand that reloading presses require a learning curve. Take the time to learn to use the press correctly. It helps to be a "Handy" type of guy/girl. It seems like things are always going wrong and you need to learn to clear these hurdles.
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Old August 29, 2013, 10:16 AM   #17
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For around your budget, you can get a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme kit. This pretty much has everything you need to get started other than dies and calipers. You'll also want to add a tumbler and a bullet puller.

Since you're mostly loading pistol calibers, when you eventually want a Dillon (and you will) the RCBS makes an excellent 2nd press for doing odd calibers and small runs.

While the Lee Classic single stage may be comparable to the Rock Chucker, everything else in the RCBS kit is better. Better scale, better powder measure, better manual. And RCBS's warranty is 2nd only to Dillon's.
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Old August 29, 2013, 10:24 AM   #18
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Midway's Press and Kit Selections

Now for the most part, I wouldn't suggest going to Midway for a Press or Kit. The shipping costs would hurt. Especially if you need to return or exchange. However it will give you a pretty good idea for prices, and variety.

You can probably find a Cabelas, Sportsman's Warehouse, Bass Pro, etc. that will have this stuff in stock, or is willing to order for you.

A lot of people are pushing Lee. Lee is a good company for beginners. If you want to buy once, cry once, I suggest going for RCBS or Hornady. They both have much better warranties.

Both have a Press Kit for sale.

The RCBS Kit has, in my opinion, a better scale, and a better case preparation setup.

The Hornady Lock N Load Basic Kit has a better powder thrower and press. It also includes a powder trickler that the RCBS kit does not.

If I were starting now, I would get the Hornady kit, and buy an RCBS balance beam scale separately.

I think the Hornady Lock N Load system provides the ability for a Single Stage to operate close enough to a Turret press you won't really notice the difference at your low round counts.

I think the case prep will also be less important as you get started because you primarily only use that for rifle calibers, and once you get started on those, most of us almost immediately change to a wax or goop. Lee has a cream people like, Hornady has some stuff called Unique people like, and RCBS has Imperial Sizing Wax that most folks will agree is the top of the line. Using any of those three are generally considered better than either of what you get in the kit.

The RCBS kit has a mail in rebate that MAY be usable for bullets or cash. I've heard they changed it back to cash only during the shortage. According to Midway, the press is good for a $50 rebate.

The Hornady kit is definitely usable for bullets, but not cash. Their rebate has always been bullets only (because they make bullets while RCBS partners with Speer I think) And they cover pretty much all the calibers with a cheaper but decent bullet choice in each common caliber. With their kit you'll have a choice of 500 bullets from this list. 500 of their .44 cal pistol bullets is probably a "rebate" of around $100-$125.

You can get the 505 scale from the kit separately for about $80. And while I'd get one because I prefer mechanical to digital if I can only have one, a digital works. I just like having the mechanical one to backstop the digital. So that could even be a second round purchase.

For some final thoughts:

Things I haven't seen in any of the basic kits you'll most likely be getting from right away to eventually:

These Case Gauges are nice to have, but a "luxuruy" for an eventual purchase

A kinetic Bullet Puller should probably be in your cart with the Press Kit

You're learning. You're also going to be setting up your dies. That means making a bunch of dummy rounds with case and bullet but not primer or powder. After you make the dummy round, you stick it in this hammer, bang the hammer a couple times, and unless you were way off on the die setup should be able to salvage the bullet. If you see the bullet being swaged or "shaved" where it was seated into the brass, you can't salvage it. Well, you shouldn't. And I wouldn't.

Neither of the kits I suggested came with a tumbler. There are three methods of case cleaning.

Dry Tumbling with corncob and/or walnut media. I see a lot of the Hornady tumblers for sale second hand. Looking at that list, the Lyman tumbler "with autoflow" and the Frankford Arsenal one that comes with a media separator both caught my eye. The upsides are cost, Downsides, time, media separation, and they can be a bit messy with residue.

You can also case clean with Ultrasonic Cleaners The bright side to these is they're faster, and you can drop some gun parts in there for cleaning from time to time. Revolver cylinders, auto barrels and the like aren't uncommon. The downsides are the drying time, and the lack of physical polishing.

The third option is Wet Tumbling with Stainless Steel Media The upsides are time, shine, and cleaning. I think SS gets brass the cleanest inside and out. The downsides are definitely cost, drying time, and CAN be media separation. If you'll look, they have a number of other household products they try and relabel for their purposes. A fruit dehydrator as a "brass dryer". I picked up a very fine mesh sieve from Amazon to "pan for gold" to get my brass and SS pins separated.

Eventually I plan to get a BIG ultrasonic for my AR Upper, and other parts. I MAY also use it to clean case wax off after resizing, but probably not. I'll most likely stick with case lubes you don't have to remove. But I'll still get the Ultrasonic for cleaning gun parts.

A few other goodies for "eventually

A Universal Decapping die With this you can decap before cleaning, allowing the media to get into the primer pocket.

A Lee Breechlock Hand Press There's also a kit, and you theoretically COULD make your ammo on it. But I just leave that decapping die in it, and watch TV while decapping fired rounds.

A primer Feeder for your press's priming function Most if not all of these presses have a priming system, and some sort of bonus buy to feed the system. Both kits I linked have a hand primer. That's the way to start. On Press priming isn't bad, but you have more control and focus with the hand primer. The only reason I linked Hornady's is because I knew what they named their thing-a-ma-bob.
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Old August 29, 2013, 10:11 PM   #19
Lost Sheep
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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You are more right than I am

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swampman1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Sheep
I think Swampman1 is being a bit pessimistic. Certainly, you can get STARTED for $300
Dies will set you back about $40 per chambering/caliber. Press, scale, calipers and a few accessories that are absolutely necessary another $100 or so
I may have been, but no point in sugar coating things.
I am a minimalist at heart. When I added up all the items in my (now complete and what I consider to be the best-for my needs-without regard for price) loading bench, I top $600 at 2012 prices. But getting started and before adding the inevitable extras he will want (but not necessarily need right away) can be within his budget.

I also did not include things I assume he already has or can get for free, like safety glasses and something on which to mount the press. Heck, you can even get by without a powder measure (but you will be slower, using just a scale and trickling powder with a butterknife or castoff rifle casing) and a funnel made of paper.

I estimate he could get started with a scale - $30, Press $120 Dies ($40x4. $160) and calipers $30 .... oops. Busted the budget right there, and without a manual.

Never mind.

Have a look at this thread, boddah4
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528114
but remember, the price of your ammo will be dropping to a fraction of what you are paying retail. Also, see my next post, "Why Reload?"

Best regards, Swampman1

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Old August 29, 2013, 10:16 PM   #20
Lost Sheep
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Why reload?

Why reload?

Let me count the ways:

Economy: Depending on what cartridges you are reloading (and whether or not you want to count your time and the up-front equipment costs) you can save anywhere from just a little to 80% or more of your ammo costs. (9mm is very close to no savings. 500 S&W, my friend's ammo costs are $0.75 per round, factory loaded ammo is $3.00 each for comparable ammo. More exotic calibers (especially rifle calibers) can save even more. Some rounds are not even available on a regular basis at any price.

Quality: Ammo you craft yourself can be tuned to your firearms particular characteristics. Handloaders for rifles quite often find some individual guns have quite striking differences in group size when shooting tuned ammunition.

Knowledge: As you study reloading, you will, perforce, also study internal ballistics. The study of internal ballistics leads into the study of how your firearms work, makes you safer, too.

Customization: Ammo you load yourself can be tuned to your particular needs. My friend with the 500 S&W loads full power loads and "powder puff" loads that clock 350 grain slugs a little under 800 feet per second. I know that's more than a G.I. 45 ACP's power and momentum, but they shoot like 22 rimfire in that big, heavy gun. Great for fun, familiarization, training and letting the curious bystander go for a "test drive" with a super-light load, a medium load, a heavy load and, if they are still game one of the big boomers. This tends to avoid the "rear sight in the forehead" mark.

Satisfaction: Punching small bunches of small, medium or large holes in paper or bringing down a game or food animal with ammunition you crafted yourself has a good deal of satisfaction. Same reason I prefer to make my own biscuits instead of store-bought.

Smug satisfaction: When the ammo shelves are bare during a market shortage or political scare, loaders are demonstrably less affected by the shortages. A couple of pounds of powder, a thousand primers and bullets (or few pounds of lead) and a hundred cartridge cases wouldn't fill a small book carton, but lets the loader know he can shoot while price-gougers take advantage of non-loaders.

Self-satisfaction: The repetitive, calm, attentive concentration of the reloading activities is often found to be so much fun as to bring to the shooter's mind the question, "Do I reload so I can shoot shoot or do I shoot so I can reload?". Some find loading to be as satisfying a hobby as shooting or fly-tying or many other hobbies.

The more fanatical among us combine a couple of the features I have mentioned and, instead of shooting for bullseye accuracy at the range, reload in a search for the "magic load" that achieves perfection in a given rifle. Then, they move on to the next target, which is another rifle and another tuned load. But you do have to be at least a little fanatical to even get it. It is the hunt they seek, for they enjoy the quest more than the goal.


I am sure there are many other reasons, but these are the main ones I can think of.

Handloading is not rocket science, but it does involve flame and smoke and things that go very fast, so caution is appropriate. If you can change a tire without losing your lug nuts and follow a cake recipe reasonably well, you can reload.

Again, thanks for asking our advice

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Old August 30, 2013, 06:09 AM   #21
spacecoast
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Quote:
I estimate he could get started with a scale - $30, Press $120 Dies ($40x4. $160) and calipers $30 .... oops. Busted the budget right there, and without a manual.
You don't have to have a scale or a manual, calipers are $10 at HF, and a hand press is $40. I've reloaded almost 20K rounds with an investment of around $300.

Press - $40
Brass tumbler - $60
Caliper - $10
Dies - $35 per caliber (x5)
Dippers, odds and ends - $20 (can make your own dippers)
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Old August 30, 2013, 07:19 AM   #22
ATPBULLETS
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Quote:
You don't have to have a scale or a manual, calipers are $10 at HF, and a hand press is $40. I've reloaded almost 20K rounds with an investment of around $300.

Press - $40
Brass tumbler - $60
Caliper - $10
Dies - $35 per caliber (x5)
Dippers, odds and ends - $20 (can make your own dippers)
that is very cheap reloading...
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Old August 30, 2013, 07:21 AM   #23
ATPBULLETS
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Quote:
While the Lee Deluxe Turret press will do the calibers you listed (40 S&W,. 380,. 30-06, and 44 mag), it has an inch less vertical capacity (which you might notice with the 30-06) than the superior Lee Classic Turret press. The Classic Turret is also stronger and handles spent primers much better among other things. But they do work exactly the same way.

By the way, Lee's turret presses are the only turret presses that feature automatic advancing (indexing) of the turret. Important to some, but not so much if you are only loading a few rounds at a time.

For a decent Classic Turret press kit (including one set of dies) see Kempf's Gun Shop online.

Lost Sheep
That's a great press..... Good advice...
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Old August 30, 2013, 07:29 AM   #24
Swampman1
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Quote:
You don't have to have a scale or a manual
Sounds like a dangerous kind of reloading to me.
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Old August 30, 2013, 08:24 AM   #25
spacecoast
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Quote:
Sounds like a dangerous kind of reloading to me.
Not at all. The powder manufacturers publish their load data for free online (not to mention several other free sites for additional confirmation of safe loads) and it's easy to calibrate your dippers with an inexpensive electronic postal scale (and recommended).
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