Q fer the reloader folks... - Page 3

oneounceload · June 27, 2011, 06:41 PM

Paert of getting the MEC Jr. to be consistent - whether with bushings or a charge bar is to get into a certain rhythm; I push the bar hard to each side - it helps settle powder and shot into the openings, it helps it there is a small piece of shot or some flakes from gumming it up, and it makes sure I move the bar completely to each side.

Once you figure out what works best for you, you'll find that your drops are consistent in both shot and powder.

I can get my Jr. to drop even better than my progressive because I nudge it that way.

When I push the bar from side to side, I do not use the lever in the middle, but I place finger tip on the end of the UCB - it seems to fit in the recess on the dial just right- I can then flick it as mentioned

zippy13 · June 27, 2011, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJimP

I'd turn that "multi - charge bar" into a fishing weight too ...and go back to a charge bar with bushings in it !!

I suppose, next you'll be telling us that you've converted your Dillon 650 to use powder bushings.

TheKlawMan · June 27, 2011, 09:12 PM

I am still tinkering with the thing and it seems to be getting better after doing two things.

It seemed that with the red plastic baffle screwed down tight that there was too much pressure on the top of the charge bar. I backed off on it just a bit.

I am not sure what screw BigJimP was talking about. The UCB is slightly different for a progressive or a standalone MEC. Anyway, I losened the screw on the front of the charge bar, the one attaching the "ProCheck" to the charge bar, slid the bar to the left and tightened it back down. It may have made a difference.

I will know better when I put some shot in the bottle. For now I am out of shot.

zippy13 · June 27, 2011, 09:32 PM

If I remember correctly, the charge bars (MEC and Universal) have a center screw on the front that limits their travel. And, on progressive loaders there's an end screw that attaches the return spring anchor.

TheKlawMan · June 28, 2011, 12:59 AM

You remember correctly, Zippy. The instructions from the manufacturer of the UCB say to use their screw for it will allow for greater movement to the left, but the kind of screw doesn't make a difference with the single station reloaders, since the diameter of the base of the Pro Check and not the screw determines the issue. Still, it is possible by tightening the bolt affixing the Pro Check to the bar that I somehow limited the bars travel. Regardless, I is sliding smooth and free, expecially after I cleaned it up with acetone and 600 grit sandpaper.

BTW, the instructions printed on the bag that the plastic baffle cam in say to remove any washers. Mine didn't have a brass washer and I don't read that to mean the rubber grommet, although someone on shotgunworld said to remove the washer and grommet.

I think tomorrow is a Prado day.

oneounceload · June 28, 2011, 07:21 AM

Yep, take out the black rubber washer as well the red baffle tube is spring-loaded where it meets the charge bar

BigJimP · June 28, 2011, 09:47 AM

Nope, I love the powder measure on the Dillon 650 ....its just the mult-charge bar for the Mec ( not made by MEC by the way ) that I hate... but I pride myself on my "flexibility" and "open mindedness"....

June 27, 2011, 06:41 PM	#51
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	Paert of getting the MEC Jr. to be consistent - whether with bushings or a charge bar is to get into a certain rhythm; I push the bar hard to each side - it helps settle powder and shot into the openings, it helps it there is a small piece of shot or some flakes from gumming it up, and it makes sure I move the bar completely to each side. Once you figure out what works best for you, you'll find that your drops are consistent in both shot and powder. I can get my Jr. to drop even better than my progressive because I nudge it that way. When I push the bar from side to side, I do not use the lever in the middle, but I place finger tip on the end of the UCB - it seems to fit in the recess on the dial just right- I can then flick it as mentioned

June 27, 2011, 09:12 PM	#53
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	I am still tinkering with the thing and it seems to be getting better after doing two things. It seemed that with the red plastic baffle screwed down tight that there was too much pressure on the top of the charge bar. I backed off on it just a bit. I am not sure what screw BigJimP was talking about. The UCB is slightly different for a progressive or a standalone MEC. Anyway, I losened the screw on the front of the charge bar, the one attaching the "ProCheck" to the charge bar, slid the bar to the left and tightened it back down. It may have made a difference. I will know better when I put some shot in the bottle. For now I am out of shot.

June 27, 2011, 09:32 PM	#54
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	If I remember correctly, the charge bars (MEC and Universal) have a center screw on the front that limits their travel. And, on progressive loaders there's an end screw that attaches the return spring anchor.

June 28, 2011, 12:59 AM	#55
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	You remember correctly, Zippy. The instructions from the manufacturer of the UCB say to use their screw for it will allow for greater movement to the left, but the kind of screw doesn't make a difference with the single station reloaders, since the diameter of the base of the Pro Check and not the screw determines the issue. Still, it is possible by tightening the bolt affixing the Pro Check to the bar that I somehow limited the bars travel. Regardless, I is sliding smooth and free, expecially after I cleaned it up with acetone and 600 grit sandpaper. BTW, the instructions printed on the bag that the plastic baffle cam in say to remove any washers. Mine didn't have a brass washer and I don't read that to mean the rubber grommet, although someone on shotgunworld said to remove the washer and grommet. I think tomorrow is a Prado day.

June 28, 2011, 07:21 AM	#56
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	Yep, take out the black rubber washer as well the red baffle tube is spring-loaded where it meets the charge bar

June 28, 2011, 09:47 AM	#57
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	Nope, I love the powder measure on the Dillon 650 ....its just the mult-charge bar for the Mec ( not made by MEC by the way ) that I hate... but I pride myself on my "flexibility" and "open mindedness"....