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Old August 26, 2013, 12:15 PM   #26
mjes92
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Nick C S
Please keep us posted on your findings.

I'm working on a similar issue likely caused by completely different reasons. Learning can be fun.

Good luck & great thread.
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Old August 26, 2013, 02:05 PM   #27
Sevens
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I agree that this is an interesting and informative thread. I will comment directly to the practice of cleaning out lead with jacketed rounds.

Firstly, doing ANYTHING for 30 years is only proof that you've done something for 30 years without catastrophic results. And for my buck... if it's YOU with YOUR guns on YOUR range and myself and my crew isn't involved, I'm not losing any sleep over it. However, on a cut & dried level, here is what you are actually doing:

You are putting something that doesn't "give" much (a jacketed bullet) directly through a place that is smaller than it was designed. It is smaller than designed simply due to the fact that you have lead built up in it.

Here's what you do -NOT- know specifically, in any measured amount:
--are your jacketed rounds pushing that lead out, or are they ironing SOME of that lead in to ever-more-fine strips that are now dang-near welded in to the grooves of your barrel? (the result of which is...wait for it...an incrementally SMALLER bore, of a dimension you cannot measure or even guess)

--and what happens when you send a high-pressure jacketed round down an incrementally SMALLER than designed bore? Well, the result is increased PRESSURE of course. How much? Nobody knows. We don't know how much smaller your bore is, if any. We don't know the pressure of the load you are using to "clean" out your lead. We don't know if you "cleaned out your lead" last time or if you forgot. We don't know if the jacketed round you are "cleaning" with is 17k or 18.5k or 32k or 35k PSI. Hmmm, maybe it's a 37k PSI round because something went wrong somewhere at the bench and you weren't aware.

So what happens if you put a full-max pressure round (or over?) down a bore that is incrementally smaller than designed?!

Well, I don't have a ballistics lab, but the short answer is that the pressure is [u]INCREASED.[/b] And with a well-built Smith & Wesson L-frame revolver, the result isn't likely to be catastrophic.

But it sure sounds like an awful practice to engage in. And to do it for 30 years and come to a rational conclusion makes it sound worse.
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Old August 26, 2013, 10:02 PM   #28
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Get copper pot scrubber (check with magnet) wrap old or even a new brush ,wet bore with favorite solvent , let it soak, wet it again then make it look like this:



3-4 passes thru & repeat if needed. Bunch it up ,then screw it on in the frame window & pull it tite in the forcing cone to remove the lead .

I don`t use my Lewis kitanymore!

GP
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Old August 27, 2013, 09:31 AM   #29
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Quote:
wet bore with favorite solvent
You mean there's something other than Hoppe's #9?
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Old August 27, 2013, 09:52 AM   #30
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Anything other than a 110 year-old product that's had half it's constituents removed over the last twenty-five years over carcinogenic concerns? Oh, yah! Check this article out. Eliminator even etches tin out of cast bullet alloy if left overnight. But the SharpShoot-R's No-Lead product is far quicker on lead.

There's always a certain amount of powder fouling in layers between the lead deposits left by each shot. The penetrating oils get into those layers as well as between the lead and steel to loosen the deposits. Shooter's choice has a lead cleaning solution that also works by penetrating and does that pretty well, if you want an alternative. You need to let any of the penetrants stay in place long enough to work. Overnight or sometimes several overnights with daily refreshed penetrant works best.
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