Primer Crimp Removal Picture

Mavrick79 · January 24, 2014, 06:07 PM

Last summer a guy at the range gave me some of his .223 lake city brass that was from Black Hills, he had the box. When I got home and got them clean I noticed they really reamed out the primer crimp on them, see picture. The other day I was able to get some more .223 lake city brass at an indoor range and it had the same chamfer/reaming like the stuff I got last summer but I have no idea of the origin of this batch but I assume its the same Black Hills stuff. Is this how Black Hills de crimps their re manufactured ammo and do you see it causing a problem reloading it?

LE-28 · January 24, 2014, 07:06 PM

As long as the primers are tight in the pocket when seated, I see no problem with it. I do think it is way over done.

Have you reloaded any of these and what did the primer feel like when you put it in?

rg1 · January 24, 2014, 07:19 PM

Just note that this brass has been twice fired at least. Sometimes they overcut to remove the primer crimp. Don't like to reload IF the cut is deeper than the bottom of the radius of a primer cup edge when seated. Taking out so much material will make the primers seat easier and just be careful watching for loose primer pockets. Again, this brass has been fired once then probably Black Hills has reloaded it again, so it's been fired at least twice. Check the cases for possible case stretching.

Ozzieman · January 25, 2014, 08:00 AM

I have no idea if those are safe but they look way over chamfered. I use a decrimping die then give then a very small chamfer, very small amount.
They might be safe but personally I would toss them since I have so much 5.56 brass.

Mavrick79 · January 25, 2014, 09:01 AM

That's what I was thinking as well, I just don't feel comfortable reloading these. I mainly wanted to see if others are finding brass like this as well and if it is Black Hills then why do they ream them out so much? I doubt anyone here knows but you never know if you don't ask LOL.

BumbleBug · January 25, 2014, 09:13 AM

Just by the photo, it looks like a neck deburring tool was used to remove the crimp & over-done at that. This use to be common for reloader before all the good pocket swagging tools came out.

...bug

Marco Califo · January 25, 2014, 09:13 AM

Sit tight for 4 hours and I will post pictures of some FC & LC:
1. Swagged with RCBS press mount tool. Not enough for easy priming.
2. Same as 1. But now chamfered with a Philips screw driver. Now just right.
3. LC swagged by GI Brass.com. Excellent.
Yes those are over reamed.

Marco Califo · January 25, 2014, 11:16 AM

Four 5.56 / 223 cases:
From left:

1. FC Deprimed
2. FC After "Swagging" primer pocket with RCBS Press mounted Crimp tool
3. FC as in #2 after further hand reaming with a philips head screw driver bit a few turns.
4. LC processed by http://www.gibrass.com/

I used to think the RCBS tool worked well, but after processing 500+ FC with results as in the photo, I think it is a wasted step

I have successfully used chamfer tools, pocket knives and screw driver blades to achieve acceptable results All you need to do is remove a small amount of the soft brass in a cone shape, so that they look like the two on the right, and the primer goes in predictable with consistent resistance.

Looking again at he OP photo, I do think it is safe to reload. The primer is not held in by that part that was swagged or reamed. As long as the primer stays in I think they are fine. I ream less because I want time efficiency and remove what is needed and not an additional wasted 30 seconds, as it is a PITA anyway.

mikld · January 25, 2014, 01:07 PM

The case in the pic seems a bit heavy on the chamfer, but it's safe to shoot (primer wise). The crimp only disrupt a few thousandths of an inch of brass, so little chamfer is needed to remove it...

Marco Califo · January 26, 2014, 12:53 PM

I just want to add that the philip's head screw driver bit works SOOO WELLL that before that light reaming, the cases stick on the RCBS swagger, but after a couple of turns with your fingers on the philips head bit, they WILL NOT stay on the RCBS swagger - they fall right off! So the screw driver bit is obviously hitting a sweet spot, which for whatever reason, the RCBS tool does not. And that sweet spot, or lack of it, causes the new primers to hang - remove it and they go right in.

okie2 · January 26, 2014, 07:22 PM

Just to champfer the crimp is not enough the pockets are also small in mil brass. I bought the crimp remover that Dillon sells.
It rolls the crimp plus opens up pocket size.
not cheap $100.00 but it does the job.

Marco Califo · January 26, 2014, 09:25 PM

Quote:

champfer the crimp is not enough the pockets are also small in mil brass.

I do not believe this to be true.

SWThomas · January 27, 2014, 10:34 AM

It should work, but that's way too much. Only the crimp itself needs to be removed.

This is why I prefer a swaging tool. I set it up to where it just removed the crimp and that's it. My primers are always tight.

January 25, 2014, 08:00 AM	#4
Ozzieman Senior Member Join Date: December 14, 2004 Location: Northern Indiana Posts: 6,117	I have no idea if those are safe but they look way over chamfered. I use a decrimping die then give then a very small chamfer, very small amount. They might be safe but personally I would toss them since I have so much 5.56 brass. __________________ It was a sad day when I discovered my universal remote control did not in fact control the universe. Did you hear about the latest study.....5 out of 6 liberals say that Russian Roulette is safe.

January 25, 2014, 09:13 AM	#7
Marco Califo Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2011 Location: LA (Greater Los Angeles Area) Posts: 2,598	Sit tight for 4 hours and I will post pictures of some FC & LC: 1. Swagged with RCBS press mount tool. Not enough for easy priming. 2. Same as 1. But now chamfered with a Philips screw driver. Now just right. 3. LC swagged by GI Brass.com. Excellent. Yes those are over reamed. __________________ ............

January 25, 2014, 01:07 PM	#9
mikld Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2009 Location: Southern Oregon! Posts: 2,891	The case in the pic seems a bit heavy on the chamfer, but it's safe to shoot (primer wise). The crimp only disrupt a few thousandths of an inch of brass, so little chamfer is needed to remove it... __________________ My Anchor is holding fast! I've learned how to stand on my own two knees...

January 26, 2014, 12:53 PM	#10
Marco Califo Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2011 Location: LA (Greater Los Angeles Area) Posts: 2,598	I just want to add that the philip's head screw driver bit works SOOO WELLL that before that light reaming, the cases stick on the RCBS swagger, but after a couple of turns with your fingers on the philips head bit, they WILL NOT stay on the RCBS swagger - they fall right off! So the screw driver bit is obviously hitting a sweet spot, which for whatever reason, the RCBS tool does not. And that sweet spot, or lack of it, causes the new primers to hang - remove it and they go right in. __________________ ............

January 26, 2014, 07:22 PM	#11
okie2 Member Join Date: March 8, 2009 Location: terlton, oklahoma Posts: 93	crimp remove Just to champfer the crimp is not enough the pockets are also small in mil brass. I bought the crimp remover that Dillon sells. It rolls the crimp plus opens up pocket size. not cheap $100.00 but it does the job.

January 24, 2014, 07:06 PM	#2
LE-28 Senior Member Join Date: September 24, 2012 Location: North Carolina Posts: 759	As long as the primers are tight in the pocket when seated, I see no problem with it. I do think it is way over done. Have you reloaded any of these and what did the primer feel like when you put it in?

January 24, 2014, 07:19 PM	#3
rg1 Senior Member Join Date: November 6, 2001 Posts: 1,125	Just note that this brass has been twice fired at least. Sometimes they overcut to remove the primer crimp. Don't like to reload IF the cut is deeper than the bottom of the radius of a primer cup edge when seated. Taking out so much material will make the primers seat easier and just be careful watching for loose primer pockets. Again, this brass has been fired once then probably Black Hills has reloaded it again, so it's been fired at least twice. Check the cases for possible case stretching.

January 25, 2014, 09:01 AM	#5
Mavrick79 Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2013 Posts: 143	That's what I was thinking as well, I just don't feel comfortable reloading these. I mainly wanted to see if others are finding brass like this as well and if it is Black Hills then why do they ream them out so much? I doubt anyone here knows but you never know if you don't ask LOL.

January 25, 2014, 09:13 AM	#6
BumbleBug Senior Member Join Date: March 11, 2013 Location: Near Heart of Texas Posts: 870	Just by the photo, it looks like a neck deburring tool was used to remove the crimp & over-done at that. This use to be common for reloader before all the good pocket swagging tools came out. ...bug

January 27, 2014, 10:34 AM	#13
SWThomas Member Join Date: August 17, 2013 Location: Fort Lee, VA Posts: 73	It should work, but that's way too much. Only the crimp itself needs to be removed. This is why I prefer a swaging tool. I set it up to where it just removed the crimp and that's it. My primers are always tight.