Reticles or Pesticles?

[Pond, James Pond]

Reticles: the culmination of human experience coupled with human imagination. Yet they perplex (not duplex) me.
Basically what are each good for?
And where do they let you down?

Seeing as there are dozens upon dozens, I'll keep this to the most common amongst sights I have been looking at.

So we have "4B", "4A", the Nikon BDC (which I understand), but then the likes of Duplex, and Heavy Duplex, "German No.4" and simple crosshairs.

So, in this thread I'd like one of two things from you:
Either tell me what you know about the relative merits of the reticles above and which tasks they excel at.

Or

Tell me about your own favourite reticles (with pictures if at all possible) if not listed above and why you chose it/them.

Or

Both of the above!

Shed some light on the art of aiming!!

[Nathan]

Hmm. . .

Point & Shoot: Reticles for shot, gun and ammo combinations where one simply points and shoots. Built simply to always draw the eye to the center point.

Crosshair - Pretty good for fine aiming. Can be washed out in some lighting or angles.

Duplex or plex - Made to countermeasure the issue above and still give decent aim point.

German post - Meant for iron sight users looking for a more simplified, quicker aim point. Thing when being charged and scope is not really perfectly aligned to the eye.

4A - Improved plex. Improved by removing a line. For hunting less dangerous game.

BDC Reticles - For where shot, rifle and ammo say let's make some simple corrections to hit out to about 600 yards with good precision, but way more speed than turning turrets. Often needs some kind of rangefinder to support. These work better on an FFP scope, but SFP can be made to work. If SFP, make sure it is accurate at the highest magnification. Some companies seem not to do this, . . ."uh do you know how to use your product?"

Nikon - Nice hunting reticle, but little ability to correct for wind.

Burris E1 - Better. . . .maybe the best.

Horus - Ranging and BDC reticle which is complicated, but capable of extending the not turret turning crown out quite a ways.

Scale Reticle - Used primarily for rangefinding and some for windage and BDC compensation. With so many great rangefiners, it is used more for windage compensation. These should really be on an FFP reticle scope.

Mil-dot - The oldest and not bad unless you are trying to do windage and elevation corrections. It is really meant for ranging, adjusting the turrets and then final wind adjustment by dot. Done that way, it is fine. If you have MOA turrets, this can be worked out, but it makes your range card bigger. Meant really for 500 - 800 yard shots.

Mil scale, TMR - Same but uses lines.

MOA scale - same but in MOA.

What do I like? I like the simplist that will get my job done. On my mid range AR, I wanted low turrets on a 1" 2-8 power scope for light weight. To get mid range hits, I chose the Nikon BDC. For windage, I can use the BDC to help me guess. It is really a 2x scope for quick shots under ~25 yards. 8x is for midrange BDC usage.

On my long range bolt gun, I have a Burris XTR 3-12. Great glass, but with MOA turrets, mil dot reticle, SFP reticle, it is a bit of a challenge to use if I had someone shooting at me. Fortunately, game animals at >300 yards will often wait for me!

[Mosin-Marauder]

I would like to find a good "German Reticle" for my 10/22. That would be awesome.

[Pahoo]

What I find somewhat interesting, is the variety of names for the same reticle. I understand that the primary purpose, is to draw your eye, to the center or intersecting lines. ....

http://www.venturamunitions.com/reticle-chart/

Be Safe !!!

[Pond, James Pond]

On my long range bolt gun, I have a Burris XTR 3-12.

I have that exact same scope on my .308!!

Great low-down on reticles by the way. I'll have to look up the Burris E1: curious now.

Good to know that the Nikon BDC seems to be well thought of as it seems likely I will be asking a shop about the 1-4x20 BDC Monarch 3. Otherwise it is a 4A reticle on that same scope. It's been discontinued so hopefully they still have one in stock. If so, I'll try to buy there and then.

[Nathan]

E1 Reticle

[HiBC]

The ACOG inverted Christmas tree reticle ,the horizontal lines are scaled to the width of a mans shoulders.Use the line that fits,and holdover is achieved.

I like the Leupold Boone and Crockett,it is a BDC ladder where the horizontal lines will equal a wind value,perhaos 10 MPH.Of course,no scale will match perfectly.But you can know the variations.Whether it 300 yds at the line or 330yds,does not matter so much,if you know,you have a tool.Its simple,and bold enough to see.Not too cluttered

A duplex is far more useful than many know.I have a fixed 6x Leupold.The dupex ,tip to tip,is two mils,or about 7 in at 100 yds.

Or 14 in at 200 yds,21 at 300 yds 28 at 400 yds...Using the mildot ranging system,if I know my target size,I can measure it against my reticle and estimate range.Its very useful within relatively flat trajectory,or hunting ranges.

Example,I sight my .257 AI dead on at 300 yds.Thats just over 3 in high at 100 yds.Hmm,so,at 100 yds,the upper hanging post is dead on.

The lower post is on at 430 yds.

If an antelope chest is 14 in tall,and it fits the duplex,its 200 yds.f it fits center crosshair to post tip,its 400 yds.If the antelope is smaller....too far!

Not perfect!!but,no extra equiptment,no loss of target from rangefinder to scope,hand motion,time...often targets only present a few seconds.

If you situation turns political....a laser rangefinder is not passive.It can be detected.

I have a Pride-Fowler Rapid 800 yd reticle .Nice on paper,and OK for varminting in good light.Very fine,fades out in poor light.It takes eye discipline and concentration to use those scales.I would hesitate to recommend it for most situations.Sometimes,though,its great.

I personally stay away from variables where the eyepiece is rotated to change power.I have found them a bit delicate.Over time,you can get looseness,the eyepiece wiggles.