wanting to custom refinish my hi power

roscotnt · October 18, 2009, 03:23 AM

hithere,
i just added to my collection, another browning hi power that is pretty rough to look at but its in good shape insid, im wanting to do a custom finish on it and im not sure to achieve my results, im going to de-blue the frame and i will bead blast it and i want to leave it the steel color, what type of finish if and do i need to use to keep it that way?i will be parkerizing the rest with manganese and want that look of black and steel,
any suggestions???
thanks in advance,
ted

madcratebuilder · October 18, 2009, 06:59 AM

I have a few 'raw steel' guns and use EEZOX to protect the finish. Zero rust issues. Use the finest bead you can get, a bead blasted finish is a pita to wipe down as it picks up link from the cloth. You could use 600-800 grit sand paper to finish the metal, it well give it a brushed look. Sand in one direction only.

roscotnt · October 18, 2009, 01:02 PM

thanks for the reply, i plan on posting b4 and after when i finally get to finish
by the way, do you by chance have a pic or 2 so i can see what to expect in a steel finished look?
thanks
ted

roscotnt · October 18, 2009, 01:09 PM

also,
you said to use finest bead, would it be better to use sand???
thanks

Bill DeShivs · October 18, 2009, 04:52 PM

Industrial hard chrome is probably the best and most practical finish for your gun. This is the factory finish on the silver colored HPs.
Bare steel is not a good finish for guns that will be handled or exposed to the elements.

UniversalFrost · October 19, 2009, 05:00 PM

por15 makes a clear finish for factory unpainted items on cars (brake parts, etc...) and it really holds up well in high temp areas and resists corrosion and corrosion. check it out and it is very inexpensive (por15.com I think is the site. I have used a lot of their products through out the years on my cars i have restored and I would definately use the clear finsih on any gun metal if I wanted to keep it bare metal and yet have a protective coating of something).

JOE

Tom2 · October 19, 2009, 06:58 PM

Lot of antique guns, usually rifles, had bare steel finishes originally. Now they are, with few exceptions, a nice patinated brown.

5whiskey · October 19, 2009, 10:18 PM

Make sure you degrease about 5 times after you remove the blueing before you parkerize anything. I used BC rust and blue remover... degreased as normal and the park job came out nasty. I redid it the next weekend and degreased the snot out of it... came out much better except for 2 small spots.

UniversalFrost · October 19, 2009, 10:38 PM

yeah, my old smith used to hot tank all the metal for a day or so (same hot tank to degrease engines and such). I still have guns he parkerized 20 years ago and they have been through heck, but he did a good park job and the more important metal prep.

roscotnt · October 22, 2009, 12:24 AM

thanks for all the replies, im considering all advice given before deciding what i want to do with it,
again, thanks

October 18, 2009, 03:23 AM	#1
roscotnt Member Join Date: September 3, 2009 Location: missouri Posts: 16	wanting to custom refinish my hi power hithere, i just added to my collection, another browning hi power that is pretty rough to look at but its in good shape insid, im wanting to do a custom finish on it and im not sure to achieve my results, im going to de-blue the frame and i will bead blast it and i want to leave it the steel color, what type of finish if and do i need to use to keep it that way?i will be parkerizing the rest with manganese and want that look of black and steel, any suggestions??? thanks in advance, ted __________________ guns dont kill people, people kill people

October 18, 2009, 01:02 PM	#3
roscotnt Member Join Date: September 3, 2009 Location: missouri Posts: 16	thanks for the reply, i plan on posting b4 and after when i finally get to finish by the way, do you by chance have a pic or 2 so i can see what to expect in a steel finished look? thanks ted __________________ guns dont kill people, people kill people

October 18, 2009, 01:09 PM	#4
roscotnt Member Join Date: September 3, 2009 Location: missouri Posts: 16	also, you said to use finest bead, would it be better to use sand??? thanks __________________ guns dont kill people, people kill people

October 18, 2009, 04:52 PM	#5
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	Industrial hard chrome is probably the best and most practical finish for your gun. This is the factory finish on the silver colored HPs. Bare steel is not a good finish for guns that will be handled or exposed to the elements. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

October 19, 2009, 05:00 PM	#6
UniversalFrost Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 2,300	por15 makes a clear finish for factory unpainted items on cars (brake parts, etc...) and it really holds up well in high temp areas and resists corrosion and corrosion. check it out and it is very inexpensive (por15.com I think is the site. I have used a lot of their products through out the years on my cars i have restored and I would definately use the clear finsih on any gun metal if I wanted to keep it bare metal and yet have a protective coating of something). JOE __________________ Lifetime member VFW and NRA "Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (when all else fails play dead) -Red Green

October 18, 2009, 06:59 AM	#2
madcratebuilder Senior Member Join Date: November 2, 2007 Location: Northern Orygun Posts: 4,923	I have a few 'raw steel' guns and use EEZOX to protect the finish. Zero rust issues. Use the finest bead you can get, a bead blasted finish is a pita to wipe down as it picks up link from the cloth. You could use 600-800 grit sand paper to finish the metal, it well give it a brushed look. Sand in one direction only.

October 19, 2009, 06:58 PM	#7
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	Lot of antique guns, usually rifles, had bare steel finishes originally. Now they are, with few exceptions, a nice patinated brown. __________________ Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you!

October 19, 2009, 10:18 PM	#8
5whiskey Senior Member Join Date: October 23, 2005 Location: US Posts: 3,657	Make sure you degrease about 5 times after you remove the blueing before you parkerize anything. I used BC rust and blue remover... degreased as normal and the park job came out nasty. I redid it the next weekend and degreased the snot out of it... came out much better except for 2 small spots.

October 19, 2009, 10:38 PM	#9
UniversalFrost Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 2,300	yeah, my old smith used to hot tank all the metal for a day or so (same hot tank to degrease engines and such). I still have guns he parkerized 20 years ago and they have been through heck, but he did a good park job and the more important metal prep. __________________ Lifetime member VFW and NRA "Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" (when all else fails play dead) -Red Green

October 22, 2009, 12:24 AM	#10
roscotnt Member Join Date: September 3, 2009 Location: missouri Posts: 16	thanks for all the replies, im considering all advice given before deciding what i want to do with it, again, thanks __________________ guns dont kill people, people kill people