6.5 Swedish brass

O6nop · January 10, 2008, 01:12 PM

I made a decision to reload for my 6.5x55 Swede using my fired brass. I broke off 2 decapper pins so far, in as many attempts, trying to push out the spent primer.

I read a few posts here and there and read that the brass I'm probably using (Igman / Hotshot - made in Bosnia?) has a much smaller flash hole than standard brass. I verified this by cutting a case in two just above the rim. With basic dial calipers I measured the flash hole about 0.032". I did the same thing to a Remington .223 brass case and found the FH to be about 0.073". The difference could be seen easily with the naked eye.

Talking with Lee Precision, to get the decapper pin replaced, they said their 6.5 pin measures .061", twice the diameter of the hole. It pushes the primer out but the pin gets stuck in the hole and pulls out of the body of the decapper pin.

Has anyone else had problems doing this... have a solution?
If I could pop the primers out, I guess I could drill the flash holes larger, and not worry about it again, then just buy better brass in the future. I hate to waste what I have, and don't intend to, so looking for ideas.

Hommbs · January 10, 2008, 02:30 PM

Drill them out from the inside out and then pry the remains of the primer cup out. You can get a berdan primer remover from RCBS, but that seems like the expensive way to go, but it depends on how many cases you have to process. Or just get something to pry the primers out and then drill the flash hole bigger. I saw a thread somewhere else where a guy used a drywall screw to pry them out.

ligonierbill · January 10, 2008, 07:21 PM

For all the hassle, just buy some new brass. I would wonder about primer seating and ignition cutting new pockets. Then I'd wonder what else is wrong with those cases. I know the price is up, but you should get good case life out of good 6.5x55 cases, so the cost per round ain't bad.

exercion · January 10, 2008, 09:54 PM

+1 on the new brass, get a 100ct or 2 of Lapua and reload it for a long long time. If you're bound and determined to shoot some factory brass and reload it, switch to Sellier & Bellot. I never had an issue with that and it lasts quite long too.

Eric

Smokey Joe · January 10, 2008, 10:12 PM

06NOP: +2 on get new brass. The amount of hassle you'll have to go through to prep those small-holed cases just isn't worth the effort. I presume we're talking, say, 20 or 30 cases, or so, not thousands of cases. And it's not as if decent 6.5x55 brass isn't easily available.

I got a Swede, too, and to start with, shot Federal commercial loads (they shot pretty well, too!) and some Winchester. Then bo't 100 Speer cases and another 100 from Grafs. So now I have all the cases I could want, and they all are "standard" cases that'll reload w/no unusual hassles.

Hey, decent brass doesn't cost all THAT much, and as pointed out it'll last a long time. I understand that the Swede is easy on brass. Neck-size it, not FL sizing, and it'll last even longer.

Was I to have to start over again on brass for the Swede, I'd spring for Norma brass out of respect for its heritage.

Another thought--scrap brass is selling real well right now @ yr friendly local metal recycler. So those small-holed cases will not go to complete waste. Chalk yr loss on the deal up to experience and move on with yr life.

Crosshair · January 11, 2008, 02:32 AM

You also have to watch out and see what the case head size is. The 6.5x55 uses a slightly larger case head than the 30-06. US makers use the 30-06 case head because it is cheaper to do so and the dimensions are close enough so it is very rarely a problem. Most foreign make cases, like Wolf, use the correct case head dimensions.

Where you run into trouble is when you are Full-length sizing cases. Use the "Correct" shell holder on a US made case and you risk ripping off the rim. I have done this before and getting the case out is a PITA even with the stuck case tools.

So how do you avoid this? Simple, start sizing using the 30-06 shell holder. Any case that won't fit is set aside for later. These cases are ones that use the proper 6.5x55 case head. After you are done sizing the 06 headed cases, switch to the "Correct" shell holder and size those cases you set aside.

The Lovemaster · January 16, 2008, 10:37 AM

I have some 1x fired 6.5x55 brass for sale, decapped and cleaned.

PM me if interested.

January 10, 2008, 01:12 PM	#1
O6nop Senior Member Join Date: October 16, 2005 Location: Austin,TX Posts: 291	6.5 Swedish brass I made a decision to reload for my 6.5x55 Swede using my fired brass. I broke off 2 decapper pins so far, in as many attempts, trying to push out the spent primer. I read a few posts here and there and read that the brass I'm probably using (Igman / Hotshot - made in Bosnia?) has a much smaller flash hole than standard brass. I verified this by cutting a case in two just above the rim. With basic dial calipers I measured the flash hole about 0.032". I did the same thing to a Remington .223 brass case and found the FH to be about 0.073". The difference could be seen easily with the naked eye. Talking with Lee Precision, to get the decapper pin replaced, they said their 6.5 pin measures .061", twice the diameter of the hole. It pushes the primer out but the pin gets stuck in the hole and pulls out of the body of the decapper pin. Has anyone else had problems doing this... have a solution? If I could pop the primers out, I guess I could drill the flash holes larger, and not worry about it again, then just buy better brass in the future. I hate to waste what I have, and don't intend to, so looking for ideas.

January 10, 2008, 10:12 PM	#5
Smokey Joe Senior Member Join Date: July 14, 2001 Location: State of Confusion Posts: 2,106	Don't mess with junky brass... 06NOP: +2 on get new brass. The amount of hassle you'll have to go through to prep those small-holed cases just isn't worth the effort. I presume we're talking, say, 20 or 30 cases, or so, not thousands of cases. And it's not as if decent 6.5x55 brass isn't easily available. I got a Swede, too, and to start with, shot Federal commercial loads (they shot pretty well, too!) and some Winchester. Then bo't 100 Speer cases and another 100 from Grafs. So now I have all the cases I could want, and they all are "standard" cases that'll reload w/no unusual hassles. Hey, decent brass doesn't cost all THAT much, and as pointed out it'll last a long time. I understand that the Swede is easy on brass. Neck-size it, not FL sizing, and it'll last even longer. Was I to have to start over again on brass for the Swede, I'd spring for Norma brass out of respect for its heritage. Another thought--scrap brass is selling real well right now @ yr friendly local metal recycler. So those small-holed cases will not go to complete waste. Chalk yr loss on the deal up to experience and move on with yr life. __________________ God Bless America --Smokey Joe

January 11, 2008, 02:32 AM	#6
Crosshair Senior Member Join Date: December 16, 2004 Location: Grand Forks, ND Posts: 5,333	You also have to watch out and see what the case head size is. The 6.5x55 uses a slightly larger case head than the 30-06. US makers use the 30-06 case head because it is cheaper to do so and the dimensions are close enough so it is very rarely a problem. Most foreign make cases, like Wolf, use the correct case head dimensions. Where you run into trouble is when you are Full-length sizing cases. Use the "Correct" shell holder on a US made case and you risk ripping off the rim. I have done this before and getting the case out is a PITA even with the stuck case tools. So how do you avoid this? Simple, start sizing using the 30-06 shell holder. Any case that won't fit is set aside for later. These cases are ones that use the proper 6.5x55 case head. After you are done sizing the 06 headed cases, switch to the "Correct" shell holder and size those cases you set aside. __________________ I don't carry a gun to go looking for trouble, I carry a gun in case trouble finds me.

January 10, 2008, 02:30 PM	#2
Hommbs Senior Member Join Date: June 1, 2005 Location: La Puente, California Posts: 102	Drill them out from the inside out and then pry the remains of the primer cup out. You can get a berdan primer remover from RCBS, but that seems like the expensive way to go, but it depends on how many cases you have to process. Or just get something to pry the primers out and then drill the flash hole bigger. I saw a thread somewhere else where a guy used a drywall screw to pry them out.

January 10, 2008, 07:21 PM	#3
ligonierbill Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2007 Posts: 2,456	For all the hassle, just buy some new brass. I would wonder about primer seating and ignition cutting new pockets. Then I'd wonder what else is wrong with those cases. I know the price is up, but you should get good case life out of good 6.5x55 cases, so the cost per round ain't bad.

January 10, 2008, 09:54 PM	#4
exercion Member Join Date: May 7, 2007 Posts: 46	+1 on the new brass, get a 100ct or 2 of Lapua and reload it for a long long time. If you're bound and determined to shoot some factory brass and reload it, switch to Sellier & Bellot. I never had an issue with that and it lasts quite long too. Eric

January 16, 2008, 10:37 AM	#7
The Lovemaster Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2007 Location: Arizona Posts: 416	I have some 1x fired 6.5x55 brass for sale, decapped and cleaned. PM me if interested.