How do I use Kelley sights with my Pedersoli Sharps?

sharpsnewbie · October 14, 2014, 11:39 PM

I have a Pedersoli Sharps and just bought Kelley sights for it. I think I have the selection of the peep figured out, but I am at a loss as to how to start the targeting process. I understand the Vernier scale and the adjustment of the rear elevator to account for drop of the bullet, but I don't have a clue as to where to start. Do I initially sight on the target for 100 yards (for the load I am using) with the rear sight elevator set at zero, and then adjust the elevator upwards for distance to the target beyond 100 yards? Seem to me if I do that I will lose the target in the sights, and if I move the rifle left or right when adjusting the rear sight I can easily lose the target. I have worked out the geometry on paper and just don't see any way of keeping the rear sight, front sight and target all in alignment after adjusting the rear sight for drop.

Jim Watson · October 15, 2014, 11:32 AM

I think if you put the sights on the rifle and dry-aim the gun a few times you will come to understand that it is very straightforward to look THROUGH (not at) the rear aperture, see the front sight and put the whole mess on the target. Given a clearly defined conventional bullseye target the best front sight insert is an aperture that will show plenty of white around the bull. Your sight picture is a series of concentric circles, the bull, the front aperture, and the rear aperture.
It will help to take the barrel sight off so you don't get confused trying to align three sights.

To zero the rifle, bore sight it on a target at a convenient rather close range. The zero mark on the vernier elevation staff does not have any relationship to where the rifle will aim and shoot.
100 yards might be too far unless you have a LARGE target backer. A steady rest is necessary so you don't "lose the target."
Fire a few shots, locate the center of the group and adjust the sight to center it on the target. Shoot some more to confirm.

Place a target at the next longer range of interest. Shoot and adjust the sights to center. Repeat for as many ranges as you care to. WRITE DOWN THE SIGHT SETTINGS FOR EACH RANGE.

A lot of shooters will go to the trouble to adjust the front sight for windage to start with. They want their rear sight windage drum to be on zero in calm air so that they can tell at a glance how much they have adjusted to actually compensate for wind and lighting changes. Commonly referred to as a "mechanical zero."

mehavey · October 15, 2014, 01:26 PM

MOUNTING:
1. Mount the sight, loosen the leaf spring screw a bit to get the ladder to sit upright relative
to the barrel (then tighten screw), and then center the windage adjustments.*

2. Put a straight-edge on the barrel and raise/lower align the peep hole to be approx
at the same height as the top of the front sight.

SHOOTING:
3. Look through the peep, center the front sight in the middle of the circle of light w/ bullseye
on top** and shoot 1st shot at 25 yards to get on paper. (You WILL be somewhere
in the black of a standard 25-yard pistol target)

4. Adjust the elevation/windage to put the second shot at dead center. (Nominally 0.01", or a
single "point" on the vernier section per minute of angle req'd)
Move aperature Up to go up; Move sight Right to go right.***

5. Fire that second shot at 25... (adjust again if req'd)

6. Move it to 100.

*
We'll talk later about shimming for "exact" vertical on the ladder.
Right now good enuf is good enuf.

**

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...3&postcount=39

***
Your eye will always track in the light of the aperature as you raise the rear sight for longer ranges.
You will always keep the sight picture above, and never "...lose sight of the target."

October 14, 2014, 11:39 PM	#1
sharpsnewbie Junior Member Join Date: October 13, 2014 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 3	How do I use Kelley sights with my Pedersoli Sharps? I have a Pedersoli Sharps and just bought Kelley sights for it. I think I have the selection of the peep figured out, but I am at a loss as to how to start the targeting process. I understand the Vernier scale and the adjustment of the rear elevator to account for drop of the bullet, but I don't have a clue as to where to start. Do I initially sight on the target for 100 yards (for the load I am using) with the rear sight elevator set at zero, and then adjust the elevator upwards for distance to the target beyond 100 yards? Seem to me if I do that I will lose the target in the sights, and if I move the rifle left or right when adjusting the rear sight I can easily lose the target. I have worked out the geometry on paper and just don't see any way of keeping the rear sight, front sight and target all in alignment after adjusting the rear sight for drop.

October 15, 2014, 01:26 PM	#3
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,896	MOUNTING: 1. Mount the sight, loosen the leaf spring screw a bit to get the ladder to sit upright relative to the barrel (then tighten screw), and then center the windage adjustments.* 2. Put a straight-edge on the barrel and raise/lower align the peep hole to be approx at the same height as the top of the front sight. SHOOTING: 3. Look through the peep, center the front sight in the middle of the circle of light w/ bullseye on top and shoot 1st shot at 25 yards to get on paper. (You WILL be somewhere in the black of a standard 25-yard pistol target) 4. Adjust the elevation/windage to put the second shot at dead center. (Nominally 0.01", or a single "point" on the vernier section per minute of angle req'd) Move aperature Up to go up; Move sight Right to go right.* 5. Fire that second shot at 25... (adjust again if req'd) 6. Move it to 100. * We'll talk later about shimming for "exact" vertical on the ladder. Right now good enuf is good enuf. http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...3&postcount=39 * Your eye will always track in the light of the aperature as you raise the rear sight for longer ranges. You will always keep the sight picture above, and never "...lose sight of the target." Last edited by mehavey; October 16, 2014 at 08:50 AM.

October 15, 2014, 11:32 AM	#2
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,543	I think if you put the sights on the rifle and dry-aim the gun a few times you will come to understand that it is very straightforward to look THROUGH (not at) the rear aperture, see the front sight and put the whole mess on the target. Given a clearly defined conventional bullseye target the best front sight insert is an aperture that will show plenty of white around the bull. Your sight picture is a series of concentric circles, the bull, the front aperture, and the rear aperture. It will help to take the barrel sight off so you don't get confused trying to align three sights. To zero the rifle, bore sight it on a target at a convenient rather close range. The zero mark on the vernier elevation staff does not have any relationship to where the rifle will aim and shoot. 100 yards might be too far unless you have a LARGE target backer. A steady rest is necessary so you don't "lose the target." Fire a few shots, locate the center of the group and adjust the sight to center it on the target. Shoot some more to confirm. Place a target at the next longer range of interest. Shoot and adjust the sights to center. Repeat for as many ranges as you care to. WRITE DOWN THE SIGHT SETTINGS FOR EACH RANGE. A lot of shooters will go to the trouble to adjust the front sight for windage to start with. They want their rear sight windage drum to be on zero in calm air so that they can tell at a glance how much they have adjusted to actually compensate for wind and lighting changes. Commonly referred to as a "mechanical zero."