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Old March 15, 2012, 10:23 AM   #1
.284
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Shotgun slug reloading????

I have looked here (forum search) as well as online and cannot find much in the way of shotgun slug reloading. Well, not what I am trying to do. Is it possible to get components that would be similar to say a Winchester Partition Gold. All I can find is Lightfield. I am really interested in using a sabot and pistol bullet system. I know it would save a ton of money considering those types of slugs are 15+ dollars per box of 5.

Anyone have any information?
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Old March 15, 2012, 03:03 PM   #2
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This place has supplies. Here's another. Got them by via Google on the first try. I'm sure there are others.
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Old March 15, 2012, 06:28 PM   #3
.284
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I found those when I searched.....maybe I'm missing something but, I didn't see anything close to a pistol bullet and sabot combo. Thanks though.
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Old March 15, 2012, 07:49 PM   #4
Newton24b
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most of the sabot loads for shotguns on the market are well proprietary bullets that are only made for that companies line of ammunition in the required amount. for example if they need 100,000 bullets a month, thats all they make. and they dont make mroe till needed.


yes we got screwed on prices of this ammunition, but the thing is you can get aound that if you have the time and money. however its gonna be a loosing proposition.
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Old March 16, 2012, 12:12 AM   #5
chills1994
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maybe this will help:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ygC4RrPP6Y

I have disected the uber expensive commercial sabot slugs, and IIRC, the wads actually have a hook of sorts on the inside end of each petal.
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Old March 16, 2012, 08:09 AM   #6
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You might be able to put a bullet and sabot for a muzzle loading rifle inside a shotgun sabot, I suppose, but I wouldn't expect much from it by way of accuracy. I don't know of anyone making a shotgun sabot for pistol bullets, per se. I expect the problem is that for shotgun pressures to give you much velocity, you'd need to use a 12 gauge or a 10 gauge, but the plastic around a .45 cal bullet will be getting pretty thick by then and there may be issues with opening reliably and with cost.

The links I put up were to help address the cost issue alone. Looks like you can get 25 slugs and sabots for around what you pay for 5 commercially loaded slugs. You'd still have powder and primer to put into it after that. The page via my first link for those supplies is here. It took another search pass, but here's another place with sabots and slugs:
slugsrus.com

After that, I think you're down to molding your own slugs to get further savings.
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Old March 16, 2012, 08:40 AM   #7
oldandslow
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284, 3/16/12

I got into reloading shotgun slugs about a year ago as I was unable to buy what I needed in my remote location. There are a couple of good websites with very helpful people who reload all sorts of sabots and fullbore slugs. Take a look at www.shotgunworld.com and www.castboolits.gunloads.com. Use the search feature at either site and you will find a wealth of info.

After experimenting with a number of sabots in 12 gauge and fullbore slugs I finally came to realize that for many people the fullbore slug out of a rifled barrel gives the best results. One exception to this is the Gualandi DGS slug with attached wad which gives me cloverleaf groups at 50 yards with a smoothbore cylinder barrel.

If you check at the Accurate Molds website (www.accuratemolds.com) they have a number of fullbore molds for casting your own slugs. I'm presently experimenting with their 770 grain 12 gauge slug which other shooters have had good results.

So do some reading and experimenting and see what works for you.

best wishes- oldandslow
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Old March 16, 2012, 08:43 AM   #8
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First rule of shotgun slug reloading is: never lend your slug mould. It will never come back to you. DAMHIK.
Really, I doubt the market would be big enough to warrant components being sold. And, most slug shooters use, if lucky, one or two rounds a year. Hardly enough to warrant an investment in equipment and components.
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Old March 16, 2012, 08:57 AM   #9
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I could see somebody with one of those bolt action, scoped slug guns shooting more than one or two shells a year. Rifle hunting isn't always allowed, and a super accurate slug gun is the next best thing. It would be fun to dial that thing in aat the range, with custom reloaded slugs, and make some rifle shooters jelous. (At shotgun distances of course)
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Old March 16, 2012, 10:13 AM   #10
.284
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Thanks for all the info!!

This is what I'm talking about:

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/RSS...ctinfo/322RSS/

This looks almost exactly like the sabot that I find in the yard when I shoot Winchester Partition Gold slugs. I believe they are made by BPI and not available in 20 gauge. I did find a ton of information on other forums and seems to be not quite the savings I expected. My motivation comes from the fact that I live in the shotgun zone of Michigan and own a 20 gauge H&R Ultra Slugger that shoots quite well. I would practice a bit more and test the capability of the gun if it didn't cost me 15 bucks per 5 shots. I have killed deer with the gun out to 130 yards but it would be nice to know where the thing is hitting at 25,50,75,100, and so on without spending big bucks. Maybe I should just bite the bullet (no pun intended) and spend a 100 bucks on the slugs, get the data I need, and know from that point on I might shoot 2-3 slugs per season.
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Last edited by .284; March 16, 2012 at 03:39 PM.
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Old March 16, 2012, 10:46 AM   #11
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I'll attempt to spell it out for you .284. First you need a sabot;

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/RSS...ctinfo/322RSS/

Then a .500 pistol bullet;

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Hor...info/08350100/

Then a manual put out by BPI with loads for the 2 above components;

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Slu...tinfo/00MSLUG/

If you already have a shotshell loader, you COULD use the above with a star crimp closure, BUT it would be better to get a roll crimper and hull vise for your drill press---, um yeah you could use a hand drill;

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Exa...info/ROLL12EX/

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Hul...ductinfo/VISE/

Why a hull vise? Roll crimping takes a lot of force. You have to heat up the hull to make the plastic soft, then fold it over while it's spinning. I guarantee you'll loose your grip on the case while doing it! Oh, AND you can only roll crimp new hulls, or one that is once fired with the star crimp cut off.

Of course you know by now that ONLY a rifled barrel shotgun will work with saboted rounds. Sure you can fire a sabot in a smooth bore with no danger, it'll go bang and spit the payload in front of the gun,,,---somewhere. In order to have the bullet hit point forward with any accuracy, it has to be spun.

This happens by an extremely tight grip of the sabot to the bullet AND the barrel. Then the rifling can spin the sabot and the bullet. Then getting a clean release of the sabot from the bullet will result in some decent accuracy.
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Old March 16, 2012, 10:52 AM   #12
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Damn, I spent 45 minutes spelling that out for nothing. If I had known it was for 20GA, I wouldn't have bothered. Oh well, maybe somebody else can use the info??¿
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Old March 16, 2012, 11:31 AM   #13
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My 20 ga. shotgun and 'slug'. [/IMG]

Edit: I always have trouble posting pics here.
Will try again.

Edit #2: still no go. Try again.

Got it?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fowler.jpg (71.3 KB, 118 views)
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Old March 16, 2012, 12:11 PM   #14
.284
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It's okay Rifleman............you smoke eaters like the low tech way of life.


Thanks Snuffy for putting in the time......I appreciate the effort.
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Last edited by .284; March 16, 2012 at 12:13 PM. Reason: forgot about Snuff.
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