Check weights

[kwm1971]

Anyone have any suggestions for check weight for my scale? I have heard of people using coins. I'd like to see if anything else works before buying some weights.

[jaguarxk120]

The best way is with the set of check weights.

Coins, wire, bullets all vary as to weight. Kind of like checking a full choke with a dime, is it new, well used, and is the gun bored tight or loose. All you really know is that you have a dime and a 12 gauge shotgun.

Both Lyman and RCBS have check weight sets, very good investment.

By the way it was found that Jack O' Conners scale was off buy several grains and his loads for the 270 Winchester were way overloaded.

[Blindstitch]

I use coins. I had a scale party and a friend with 1 check weight. Set the weight on the scale and make sure it's dead on. Then set the weight on your scale and calibrate it.

Now take whatever generic scale weight you want to use and weight it on both scales making sure they come out the same. Once you're done mark the weight of the item on it or wright it down where you store the weight.

I prefer two weight just in case. One high and one low.

[zxcvbob]

Coins, wire, bullets all vary as to weight. Kind of like checking a full choke with a dime, is it new, well used, and is the gun bored tight or loose. All you really know is that you have a dime and a 12 gauge shotgun.

They don't vary if you use the same coin every time. I have a dime with "35" written on it with a Sharpie on my loading bench. It weighs *exactly* 35.000 grains, by my decree. I don't know what it really weighs, but it's pretty close to 35 and repeatably is more important here than the precision.

[cdoc42]

I agree with investing in a set of check weights. Just be sure you don't then pick them up with your fingers, as skin oil will change the weight. Use a forceps ("tweezers"). At least that's what I learned in Pharmacy school, and if that is good enough for making drugs, it has to be just as good for making cartridges.

[FlyFish]

As Blindstitch said, you can create your own check weight(s) if you have access to a scale of known accuracy. I think it's a good idea to have a number of different weights so you can check your scale at something near what it is that you're going to be weighing. If that's powder for a typical pistol load, the smallest US coin (a dime, which weighs about 35 gr) is a bit on the heavy side. A good option is to take some non-corrosive wire and just cut off varying amounts to create a range of check weights, and of course then be sure to label and store everything properly.

Alternatively, if (like me) you just like having the "right" thing for the job, you can go with the Lyman or RCBS check weights or, for about the same money, pick up a laboratory-grade set of weights on eBay, like these Ohaus weights that I use. The only downside is that they're in grams, so you need to do the conversion to grains - which my electronic scale does automatically, and for my balance beam scale I just do the math on the pocket calculator that sits on my reloading bench all the time anyway (15.4 grains in 1 gram).

[rg1]

I recommend a set of check weights. You can check your scales accuracy from 1/2 grain to 100 grains or all of the weights total 210.5 grains. Makes you feel more confidence in your scale and loads. I have Lyman's Check Weight set but there are others.

[zxcvbob]

If I check the scale at 0 and check it at 35 grains, why would it not be accurate everywhere in between -- and a little beyond 35? Everything I load is within that range.

If buying an expensive set of weights makes you feel more confident in your reloads, go for it. They are not *that* expensive. But I don't see the need for it.

[jaguarxk120]

You have know idea if that "check weight" is 35,34,33, or for that mater 36,37, or 38 grains.
You just use it as your own standard, like O' Conner's scale could be off and your check weight useless.

The best is a set of check weight from a known standard. The weights are calibrated against a known weight not a scale that has never been checked.

And the check weight sets are not expensive as a kaboom.

[FlyFish]

Originally Posted by zxcvbob

If I check the scale at 0 and check it at 35 grains, why would it not be accurate everywhere in between -- and a little beyond 35?

Assuming that you know, as in really know, that your check weight is 35 grains, then I think you're most likely right, i.e, the scale should be acceptably accurate between your two calibration points (0 and 35). However, you're implicitly assuming that the scale responds linearly between those two points, which may or may not be the case. The response probably is linear, or at least close enough for reloading purposes, for the better quality scales, but without checking at some other calibration points it does involve a bit of faith, so I've just gotten into the habit of checking calibration at a point close to the charge I'm planning to weigh.

[WESHOOT2]

I set my scale for its intended powder charge weight, and THEN check my setting with the check weights.

Powder charging is no place to go cheap, ay?

[adrians]

[QUOTE][/I set my scale for its intended powder charge weight, and THEN check my setting with the check weightsQUOTE]

I do this everytime I change the charge weight, you could say that's rather "anal" but It only take a couple of seconds and it's done ,,, better safe than sorry so the saying goes,,

I still don't know how to display a quote in my text,,,lol.

[schmellba99]

I have about 10,000 check weights at my reloading bench, ranging from 40 grains all the way up to 405 grains.

There are also a couple of calibration weights with the RCBS powder dispenser/scale combo sitting on the bench as well.

[snuffy]

I have about 10,000 check weights at my reloading bench, ranging from 40 grains all the way up to 405 grains.

There are also a couple of calibration weights with the RCBS powder dispenser/scale combo sitting on the bench as well.

The calibration weights are just that for calibration. IE, to calibrate the scale.

Q]10,000 check weights at my reloading bench.Q[ If you're calling bullets check weights, you still don't really know what they weigh, just what the scale says they weigh. Same goes for coins. The gubmint may say a dime is 35 grains, but worn dies may make some heavier.

The ONLY way to know is to get some check weights;

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/612...ProductFinding

[William T. Watts]

I purchased a set of lyman check weights, no guess work, inexpensive!! This isn't where you want to guess!! William

[schmellba99]

True, you don't know exactly what the scale is telling you. But unless you get certifications from the mass produced check weights you buy, it's as good a guess as anything else.

When I set up my scale and use the calibration weights provided by the manufacturer, i'm reasonably certain that my scale is reading the way it should. Especially when I know exactly what the pan in that scale should weigh, or what the scale should display as the weight.

And when I grab a couple of 55 grain projectiles and they weight in at 55 grains, or something awfully close to it, and a handful of 230 grain projectiles weigh in at 230 grains or something awfully close to it, It's not a stretch to come to a reasonable assumption that my scale is reading accurately.

If a 55 grain projectile came in at 40 grains or 75 grains or a 230 grain projectile came in at 190 grains or 300 grains, I'd know instantly there is a problem. But if my scale says a 55 grain projectile weighs 54.9 or 55 or 55.1, I'm confident enough that it is reading accurate.

[zxcvbob]

The ONLY way to know is to get some check weights;

I don't CARE to know for sure. I do care that my scale is reading the same as it did 6 months when I worked up the load. And if I have to replace the scale, I care that the new scale reads really close to what the old one did -- if it doesn't, I have to work up my loads again.

[wogpotter]

Its like any comparison between a calibration item & a working one. You MUST have something that's 100% certified to refer back to. That's why professional diamond buyers have a "reference stone" to compare with the stone under discussion.

We used to have a saying in the Pro Lab business that illustrates the point:

"How do you drive a photographer crazy?"
"Give him 3 light meters & ask for the exact exposure!"

"How do you drive a lab tech crazy?"
"Give him 3 thermometers & ask him for the exact temperature!"

[zxcvbob]

Its like any comparison between a calibration item & a working one. You MUST have something that's 100% certified to refer back to. That's why professional diamond buyers have a "reference stone" to compare with the stone under discussion.

No I don't. I am not using the scale to buy or sell anything, nor to prepare test results for somebody else. The diamond broker or the compounding pharmacist are not reloading ammunition.

If I have a dipper that measures just enough Green Dot to charge my favorite .38 Special target load, does it make any difference what the weight of the powder is? Or does it only matter that it scoops the same amount every time?

You're getting confused because we like to measure our powder with ±0.1 grain of repeatability. That implies (incorrectly) that we need to know the exact powder weight with that same degree of precision and accuracy.

Precision, accuracy, and repeatability are not the same things.

[wogpotter]

Or does it only matter that it scoops the same amount every time?

As long as you don't mind what load you're using its fine.
Tell me, without some kind of verified testing standard HOW do you know it's the same every time?

[schmellba99]

This is the same as the argument between precision and accuracy.

When it comes to my scale readings, I'll take precision over accuracy.

[BuckRub]

How do you know Jack O'Conners loads were off by a few grains ? According to whom or what ? Do you shoot them in his gun and check ? That's what you'd have to do. And check weights to make sure you're perfect ? It doesn't have to be this way ... As long as you only use your scale, and get close to where you want to go and its repeat ability are perfect. I could care if 3 grains high or low as long as every shot is making a ragged hole ? And when I repeat my steps it brings me back to same place. Who says where you should be anyhow ? The manual ? That's only a ballpark figure. Your rifle and components will tell you along with your target. Same model of guns but yours and mine mine may like 37.0 grains and yours 35.7 and we're using exact same components.
As long as it takes to to same place, again and again.

[iraiam]

I bought the RCBS standard check weight set, which I believe is a total of 60.5 grains, I do weigh more than that on occasion, but the scale is verified in several stages up to the full weight set.

[lee n. field]

Anyone have any suggestions for check weight for my scale? I have heard of people using coins. I'd like to see if anything else works before buying some weights.

Just buy the check weight set.

[dickttx]

I always follow these posts to see what various opinions there are. I am of the opinion that nearly everyone actually measures by volume, rather than by weight. We do check the volume occasionally by weighing.
Personally, I don't vary my charges or powder very much. In fact I use the same charge for 45 ACP and 38 Super.
Based on experience I know what a particular disk hole, or setting throws and I used to level and zero my scale each time I started loading and weigh my first actual load and an occasional one after that. I have two checks at that point, do I have the correct disk/setting, and does my scale agree with that.
However, I keep reading about check weights, so, being a tightwad, I added a $10 set of gram check weights to an Amazon order. Between my three beam scales and a cheap electronic I kept weighing various combinations of weights until I got a consistent 5.4 grains.
Now I put that combination of weights in my Dillon beam scale (RCBS/Oahus 505) with the poises set to 5.4 grains and make sure it still zeroes at that weight. I then weight several drops of powder to see that they still weigh 5.4 grains. If it didn't I really don't know what I would do, as I am still going to use the #53 disk hole on my Lee PAD as that is what has preformed well for thousands of rounds.
I could also set up my Ohaus 10-10 and/or my RCBS 5-10 as further checks, but then I would probably be completely confused. As someone said, "A man who has two watches never knows what time it is."
I think I am more in line with zxcvbob and wogpotter's philosophy.
If I used a lot of different powders and charge weights I would probably have to rethink my procedures. But at my age I try to not have to think too much.