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October 16, 2008, 12:10 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: January 20, 2008
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.223 reloading on the cheap
I currently reload .45 ACP, but I will be getting my first AR-15 tomorrow and I know I'm going to need to reload to be able to shoot as much as I'd like to.
I currently have: - Lee Classic Turret press with auto prime and powder measure attached - Lee Scale Now, this is what I can think of that I'll need in addition to that: 1. Case trimmer 2. Lube and lube pad 3. Dies 4. Brass 5. Primers 6. Bullets 7. Case tools (chamferer etc) 8. Might need a powder measure. I have to check and see how much the Lee will dispense and how much a typical .223 powder charge is. What are some decent inexpensive options for the stuff I need? |
October 16, 2008, 12:16 PM | #2 |
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Spray lubes work fine if you want to avoid pad rolling. Usually you want an inside neck lube. This is most often a dry lube, like motor mica or powdered graphite. Imperial (sold by Redding) is just a small tin of powdered graphite you stick the neck into. Works fine. You can just get powdered graphite at the hardware store and rig a cup to hold it. You need it deep enough to cover the neck about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way.
The Lee Perfect Measure will be adequate for a first measure. You can also make the scoops work if you don't use a load too near maximum. Otherwise you have to weigh all charges, and that takes awhile. You'll need powder. If you are going to use bullets in the 50-55 grain range, you could do a lot worse than to start with IMR 4198. It is what Stoner designed the AR to work with. The 53 grain flat base Sierra MatchKing is a super-acurate bullet in my AR at 200 yards.
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October 16, 2008, 12:26 PM | #3 |
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I have the power measure that attached to the turrett press, the pro auto disk:
http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/cata...g/powhan1.html I think it will work as long as it dispenses enough power. Can I load .223 in a turret fashion or should I do it single stage for more precision? |
October 16, 2008, 12:39 PM | #4 |
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Another question - Should I neck size or full length size the cases for use in an AR?
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October 16, 2008, 02:06 PM | #5 |
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IMR 4198 is great powder for .223, but it doesn't meter well for all types of presses. My buddy has a progressive and you can hear the 4198 cylinders getting crushed with every charge. My single stage does just fine with it though.
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October 16, 2008, 02:13 PM | #6 | |
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some say you don't need to full length resize but most say it is the prudent thing to do. If your AR has a custom barrel with a custom chamber I would say no. if your rifle is chambered in a stock 5.56 I would say you should full length
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October 16, 2008, 02:23 PM | #7 | |
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October 16, 2008, 02:37 PM | #8 |
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Find some cheap, bulk .223 fmj bullets. Get an RCBS X die, then you won't have to trim your brass but once. I'm using AA2200 powder that I bought several years ago @ $48 for 8#, delivered. I don't lube inside case necks. I do use Hornady One-Shot spray lube. I do tumble my loaded rounds for a few minutes to remove the lube.
You do need to f.l. resize for your AR. You probably don't need to buy small base dies for your AR. |
October 16, 2008, 03:07 PM | #9 |
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Graphite tip... I use an old air rifle pellet tin with a screw on cap to store and use my graphite. I got sick of having black all over everything from the graphite so I got to thinking... I now have an old worn out .22 cleaning brush. I dip it in the tin and lube only the inside of the case. I can do 4 cases per dip and $4 worth of graphite will last me well over 1000 rounds. No more graphite on the outside of my cases.
I use imperial and it costs about $7 for probably 1500 rounds. It takes longer but will be cheaper than spray in the long run I think. Bullets from Cabelas, .224 55grain Winchester FMJBT run about $8 per 100 and I use range brass that I bought for $60 per 1000. I use Redding dies and don't have to trim everytime. I'm going to get a Lee collet die next for the .223 after having great success with one on my .22-250 project, this will cut back on trimming even more and should greatly increase brass life and have an impact on accuracy. Add to that, the collet die is pretty cheap I have a RCBS Reloader Special 5 single stage press, a Forster trimmer with drill attachment, and a Lyman 1200 DPS3 scale system and can pump out 100 rounds in 1.5 hours with range brass that needs to be full length resized and uniformed. I have a Harbour Freight two drum tumbler and can clean 300 rounds at a time at 2 hours a batch. I'm reloading for bolt action in this caliber.
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October 16, 2008, 03:44 PM | #10 |
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No need for a new powder measure just buy the double disk kit, it's cheap and works great. You can use two different size holes to get the charge you want, just make sure the disk with the smaller hole is on top. I have been very happy using the double disk kit on my classic turret loading 223.
Rusty
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October 16, 2008, 04:38 PM | #11 |
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Lee doesn't know this, but it's pretty simple to modify an adjustable charge bar so that it sits on top of another adjustable charge bar in the double disk kit. Just be sure that the larger hole is on the bottom.
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October 16, 2008, 04:52 PM | #12 |
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+ 1 on the double disk kit with your existing Auto-Disk setup. You'll need it for larger charges anyway, but you'll also find that the double disk kit will allow you to get virtually any charge weight you desire. Bear in mind also that if you're going to use the Auto-Disk then you will also need to acquire a rifle charging die as well.
As far as full length or neck sizing, I tried neck sizing for my AR and had feeding problems. So the general consensus is that you want to full length size for an autoloading rifle. As far as powder goes, I like H335 and TAC for my AR. Both meter exceptionally well in the Auto-Disk setup, and work exceptionally well for 60 or smaller bullets. If you start looking toward the bigger projectiles, then you'll get better results out of something a little slower like Varget (my preference with the 68 grain Hornady BTHP match). If you're just looking to do some plinking, then you'll be pretty happy with any 55 grain projectile and TAC, H335, or even W748. I'd mention as well that I prefer boat tail projectiles for the 223. Accuracy is definitely a little better with the boat tail, but they are also a lot easier to reload since you don't flare the mouth on a rifle case. You chamfer the neck a little which does help get the bullet started, but I just find that the boat tails make 223 loading a lot quicker and less frustrating. YMMV... |
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