Suggestions for a top on my reloading bench

Citywaterman · October 8, 2009, 09:30 PM

The top of my reloading bench is 6ft wide and 2 ft deep. I built this bench using the NRMA plans. The top is 3/4 ply. I have a small rubber type of mat that I use to work on. Some of you may have one of these work mats. It has a diagram of the Glock parts etc on it. Something like a neopream material. I would like to find a piece of that type of material to cover the complete top of my work bench. I looked around online, but not sure exactly what to search for. I'm open to other suggestions. Maybe something that you use or have seen on other benches. I included a couple photos of the bench so that you can see the size I'm trying to cover. Thank you, Citywaterman

Nomo4me · October 8, 2009, 10:07 PM

If you live in a medium to large city, search your yellow pages for "gaskets" "Conveyors" "Rubber"
The industrial gasket houses should have something that will fit your needs. Tell them you'll piece together shorter pieces if that will save you some $$.

Claude Clay · October 8, 2009, 10:23 PM

yours looks good, and strong.
room to grow is important also
natural wood is how mine has been

zxcvbob · October 8, 2009, 10:49 PM

You might look for some industrial linoleum (real linoleum, not vinyl). What you've got looks fine to me just like it is.

David Wile · October 8, 2009, 11:12 PM

Hey Waterman,

With all the moving I have done over the past 50 years, I have made quite a few benches, all of my own design, and they have evolved somewhat over time. I am finishing my latest one right now.

The work part of the bench starts with a 2X4 frame with bench joists 16 inches on center. It is 12 feet long and about 22 inches deep. I used two 2X10s and a 2X4 to form the top which was screwed to the frame which was also screwed together. Then I put two half inch layers of OSB over the dimensional lumber and screwed those two layers securely to the dimensional lumber. To make a more finished top, I used a piece of 3/16 finished plywood over the OSB. I securely attached the finished plywood with rubber contact cement so there would not be any nail or screw holes in my finished top. I have thought about painting polyurethane over my finished top to give it a more special look, but I sat down for a while, and the thought passed. My finished top without nails or screws is just going to be good enough.

This latest iteration of my reloading bench is not much different than the last two or three I have made. It has shelves above the bench and a shelf under the bench much like yours. However, this time I tried something new. My last several benchs had so many presses mounted on them it was hard to find space to work.

This time I thought I would try something new. I put two shelves on the side wall and mounted all of my presses closely together. For shotshell, I have three Hornady 366s, two MEC Sizemasters, and one MEC Junior. On the metallic side, I have a Hornady L&L AP, an RCBS Rockchucker, two RCBS Juniors, an old Wells "C" press that weighs more than the Rockchucker, a Lyman Acculine that can be used as a hand tool, a Lyman Lubrisizer, and some other odds and ends that need mounting.

My idea was to get two half inch steel plates (12X18 inches square) and mount them to the top of my bench about a third of the way in from each end. The plates are bolted to the bench top, and my presses are then mounted to them when I am using a particular press. I have drilled and tapped numerous holes in the steel plates to accept all my different presses. Now when I want to use my Rockchucker press, I take it off the shelf, put it in place on the steel plate and screw two short hex head bolts with washer and lock washer into the plate to hold the press.

Now I have room on the bench to use two presses at one time, and I still have room to do other work between the presses. It seems to work well for me, and I am surprised I came up with a new idea after all these years. It will probably be the last good idea I have.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile

csmsss · October 9, 2009, 12:06 AM

As far as I'm concerned, it's awfully tough to beat formica for toughness, economy, cleanliness and appearance. Easy to apply with contact cement as well, and definitely my choice for workbenches and the like.

Rembrandt · October 9, 2009, 01:06 AM

Not sure what you're wanting to spend, but (1/4-3/8-or 1/2") PVC would be classy. Available from any plastics supply, roughly around $100-150. Can be secured with double back tape or an adhesive. Can be cut with woodworking saws and round over the edges with a router.

If you want a softer material that is tough, go with 1/4" thick smooth rubber belting material.

mongoose33 · October 9, 2009, 07:25 AM

Depending on how smooth the surface of the bench is, if it's nice and smooth, I'd probably just put a couple of coats of polyurethane on it.

If it's not smooth, I'd look at 1/4" hardboard glued to the top.

The top of my main bench is a solid-core door which I've coated with polyurethane. On top of that I have a mat which is used to keep tools from sliding in toolboxes (it's 2x3 feet) for working on my guns--I'll lay rags on top of the mat and it's a nice but absorbent work surface.

If i could find a nice rubber mat I might go that way so things don't roll around or skid.

**Unclenick** · October 9, 2009, 07:40 AM

What you are looking for would likely be a neoprene foam sheet. This is what a lot of mouse pads are backed with. Test tube stoppers are made from neoprene, so it isn't very chemical or solvent sensitive—a reason I would hesitate to use PVC. Anchor Rubber and other suppliers keep it in rolls and will cut to size. Pre-cut sizes can probably be had at McMaster-Carr. You'd have to compare prices.

I wouldn't use a rubber surface for the whole bench. I clamp powder measures and other items to the bench temporarily, and don't want a spongy surface under them. It probably isn't the best surface for keeping a scale level, either. For some years, at the advice of a cabinet maker friend, I have put a 1/8" sheet of tempered Masonite on each workbench, drilling and countersinking the Masonite for attaching it with wood screws. If the surface gets too cut up or scored, I can just unscrew it and replace it.

More recently I went to white coated tempered Masonite (whiteboard). Not only can I now see small objects more easily, but I can keep a set of erasable whiteboard markers on hand to write out the details of whatever load I am working on or to temporarily label the position of a loading tray or other container of components at intermediate stages of the loading process. That isn't needed for a non-stop session, but if you have to stop in the middle and can't get back to it for a spell, you can lay a plastic drop "cloth" over the bench and see exactly where you were when you return to it.

mapsjanhere · October 9, 2009, 07:53 AM

Living in a very dry climate, anti-static mat is my preferred surface.

Foxbat · October 9, 2009, 08:01 AM

The way I see it, this is not your transmission rebuild bench, where you will have oils and parts pounded.

To me reloading bench should be clean. So what I do is seal the plywood surface with a varnish, and then put on top clean sheets of picture framing matting. Get it in white or some off-white color, so it would look clean and organized. The sheets cost little, and when they get dirty, easy to replace.

Personally I don't like dark colors for reloading bench.

**Unclenick** · October 9, 2009, 08:14 AM

It's not a place you plan to have oils, but it's not a gimmie that you won't have a lubed case slip onto it from time to time, or that cast bullet lube won't be picked up, or where disassembling a press to change parts won't grease it here and there. I like the disposable aspect of the matboard, but would not be able to use it in my basement shop, which does not always have bone-dry air. I've had too many experiences with dry paper starting rust on steel parts where they are in contact with it. I don't know if that is because I am not using archival grade acid-free paper, or if it is just an artifact of the paper fibers wicking away oil and then holding moisture against the metal?

ZeSpectre · October 9, 2009, 08:26 AM

I painted mine with some industrial grade grey paint and then I put some of that "fake grass" carpet on it.

Things don't bounce or roll around and when the "carpet" gets cruddy I slice off a new piece and lay it down because it's pretty cheap to replace.

Foxbat · October 9, 2009, 08:34 AM

"I've had too many experiences with dry paper starting rust on steel parts where they are in contact with it. I don't know if that is because I am not using archival grade acid-free paper, or if it is just an artifact of the paper fibers wicking away oil and then holding moisture against the metal?"

I haven't noticed that, maybe because as you pointed out the mats are acid-free.

BTW - another nice feature of the mats - they are double-sided, as their backs are usually of light gray color. They are also quite resistant to minor oil stains. They of course don't like water, but cost is trivial - if you go to a framing shop, they usually have bins full of remnants.

What I particularly like about them - every smallest bit is visible on them, every grain of spilled powder, every tiny part.

Waldog · October 9, 2009, 09:15 AM

1/4" Tempered hardboard (Masonite). Be sure to use tempered!!! Looks nice, wears like iron, is cheap. Cut it slightly over size, stick it with glue or double sided carpet tape, trim with a flush trim router bit. It you want to dress it up, put on hardwood edgeboard for the table top edges.

DavidAGO · October 9, 2009, 09:39 AM

Agree with Waldog, 1/4" tempered hardboard. someone else on this forum had suggested routing a groove about 1/2" in from the edge all the way around to keep cases from rolling off, It is a great idea. I use the hammer type bullet puller, and just whack it directly against the masonite, Pulled sevral bullets, lots of pounding, and you can't tell where I hit the top. I put a drink glass down on the far edge, water doesn't bother it, One shot spray lube wipes right off, lead splatter from casting does not burn it or stick. I think masonite is the cockroach of the building material world, it will survive thermonuclear war.

DavidAGO

Foxbat · October 9, 2009, 10:14 AM

Masonite will absorb water and swell, with time. Any leak will be devastating.

alloy · October 9, 2009, 10:17 AM

Anti static rubber floor tiles(google) cover one work bench of mine and might be similar to what you are hunting. About 1/4" inch thick semi-hard rubber material that keeps things from rolling and/or getting banged up.

I hate dropped, sized necked cases

. Just a thought for your bench-top search.

Ranger325 · October 9, 2009, 10:58 AM

For about $30 I put some nice black with white and grey fleck Formica on my benches. Remnants. Wears well and clens up very nice - I'm very happy!
Sorry, no pics.........

Regards,

oneounceload · October 9, 2009, 11:47 AM

a piece of stock kitchen counter Formica from Lowe's or HD - glued and screwed to the base will be smooth and impervious to just about anything

roscotnt · October 9, 2009, 12:09 PM

waterman,
there is a roll of non skid rubber you can get, paper mills use it to keep rolls of paper stock from moving in transit, they just toss it in trash when roll is delivered, if you know a trucker or live neer a papermill, it is usually free,, or,,
have you given thought to non skid shelving liner? its like a rubber, wally world sells it in the potnpan area as shelf liner, also harbor frieght sells some of the same thing as a toolbox drawer liner,, it looks like dots connected on a sheet,, good stuff,,,
good luck

yrralguthrie · October 9, 2009, 01:25 PM

If you're really interested in the floor mat type of material, try a industrial supply company. mcmaster.com is a good one

Or a farm/ranch supply store will have horse stall mats. From memory these are 4ft by 6ft about 1/2 to 5/8 inch thick and very tough. Less than 50 bucks.

ljg

Citywaterman · October 9, 2009, 01:57 PM

I appreciate all the suggestions for materials to use on my work bench top. I believe that I will use several coats for a thick polyurathane coating. This will give me a protective coating and allow me to keep the natural finish of the wood. I found a neopreme mat large enough for a work surface at Harbour Freights. This is a work in progress project. I see that some of you have been making changes to your work benches for years and still making changes. Thanks again, Citywaterman

I sumarized all your suggestions to date: Anyone looking for a good material to use for their bench top. Here's the list of suggestions:

industrial linoleum (real linoleum, not vinyl)

polyurethane

finished plywood with rubber contact cement so there would not be any nail or screw holes

formica

(1/4-3/8-or 1/2") PVC

1/4" thick smooth rubber belting material

couple of coats of polyurethane

neoprene foam sheet

white coated tempered Masonite (whiteboard)

(masonite is the cockroach of the building material world)

anti-static mat

matboard

fake grass" carpet

archival grade acid-free paper

1/4" Tempered hardboard

Anti static rubber floor tiles

stock kitchen counter Formica from Lowe's or HD

roll of non skid rubber you can get, paper mills

non skid shelving liner

white and grey fleck Formica

perley03 · October 9, 2009, 05:21 PM

Leave your 3/4" plywood top, go to an automotive store (NAPA, Car Quest, Advanced Auto, etc) and buy Herculiner and roll it on. It's rubberized truck bed coating, its tough as nails and anything that is placed on it grips really well.

JD 500 · October 9, 2009, 06:46 PM

I use Masonite, screwed on, anticipating I would need to replace it, but it's held up great. It's taken many drops of Hoppe's, oils, etc plus a water / soda spill here and there. Have used it maybe 3-4 years now and at this rate I could easily double or triple that before it would need be replaced. Used 1/4 round trim with the round side facing in to trim around sides and rear to keep stuff from rolling off.

October 8, 2009, 10:23 PM	#3
Claude Clay Senior Member Join Date: March 14, 2007 Location: CT Posts: 325	yours looks good, and strong. room to grow is important also natural wood is how mine has been __________________ NRA Instructor -- NRA Basic Pistol & Re-Loading Make a fire for a man and you warm him for the night Light him on fire and you warm him for the rest of his life Last edited by Claude Clay; October 9, 2009 at 07:45 PM.

October 8, 2009, 10:49 PM	#4
zxcvbob Senior Member Join Date: December 20, 2007 Location: S.E. Minnesota Posts: 4,720	You might look for some industrial linoleum (real linoleum, not vinyl). What you've got looks fine to me just like it is. __________________ "Everything they do is so dramatic and flamboyant. It just makes me want to set myself on fire!" —Lucille Bluth

October 9, 2009, 01:06 AM	#7
Rembrandt Senior Member Join Date: August 10, 2002 Posts: 2,108	Not sure what you're wanting to spend, but (1/4-3/8-or 1/2") PVC would be classy. Available from any plastics supply, roughly around $100-150. Can be secured with double back tape or an adhesive. Can be cut with woodworking saws and round over the edges with a router. If you want a softer material that is tough, go with 1/4" thick smooth rubber belting material. Last edited by Rembrandt; October 9, 2009 at 01:13 AM.

October 9, 2009, 07:40 AM	#9
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,060	What you are looking for would likely be a neoprene foam sheet. This is what a lot of mouse pads are backed with. Test tube stoppers are made from neoprene, so it isn't very chemical or solvent sensitive—a reason I would hesitate to use PVC. Anchor Rubber and other suppliers keep it in rolls and will cut to size. Pre-cut sizes can probably be had at McMaster-Carr. You'd have to compare prices. I wouldn't use a rubber surface for the whole bench. I clamp powder measures and other items to the bench temporarily, and don't want a spongy surface under them. It probably isn't the best surface for keeping a scale level, either. For some years, at the advice of a cabinet maker friend, I have put a 1/8" sheet of tempered Masonite on each workbench, drilling and countersinking the Masonite for attaching it with wood screws. If the surface gets too cut up or scored, I can just unscrew it and replace it. More recently I went to white coated tempered Masonite (whiteboard). Not only can I now see small objects more easily, but I can keep a set of erasable whiteboard markers on hand to write out the details of whatever load I am working on or to temporarily label the position of a loading tray or other container of components at intermediate stages of the loading process. That isn't needed for a non-stop session, but if you have to stop in the middle and can't get back to it for a spell, you can lay a plastic drop "cloth" over the bench and see exactly where you were when you return to it. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle Last edited by Unclenick; October 9, 2009 at 07:48 AM.

October 9, 2009, 07:53 AM	#10
mapsjanhere Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2009 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 2,832	Living in a very dry climate, anti-static mat is my preferred surface. __________________ I used to love being able to hit hard at 1000 yards. As I get older I find hitting a mini ram at 200 yards with the 22 oddly more satisfying.

October 8, 2009, 10:07 PM	#2
Nomo4me Member Join Date: September 24, 2009 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 58	If you live in a medium to large city, search your yellow pages for "gaskets" "Conveyors" "Rubber" The industrial gasket houses should have something that will fit your needs. Tell them you'll piece together shorter pieces if that will save you some $$.

October 8, 2009, 11:12 PM	#5
David Wile Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2001 Location: Mechanicsburg, PA Posts: 585	Hey Waterman, With all the moving I have done over the past 50 years, I have made quite a few benches, all of my own design, and they have evolved somewhat over time. I am finishing my latest one right now. The work part of the bench starts with a 2X4 frame with bench joists 16 inches on center. It is 12 feet long and about 22 inches deep. I used two 2X10s and a 2X4 to form the top which was screwed to the frame which was also screwed together. Then I put two half inch layers of OSB over the dimensional lumber and screwed those two layers securely to the dimensional lumber. To make a more finished top, I used a piece of 3/16 finished plywood over the OSB. I securely attached the finished plywood with rubber contact cement so there would not be any nail or screw holes in my finished top. I have thought about painting polyurethane over my finished top to give it a more special look, but I sat down for a while, and the thought passed. My finished top without nails or screws is just going to be good enough. This latest iteration of my reloading bench is not much different than the last two or three I have made. It has shelves above the bench and a shelf under the bench much like yours. However, this time I tried something new. My last several benchs had so many presses mounted on them it was hard to find space to work. This time I thought I would try something new. I put two shelves on the side wall and mounted all of my presses closely together. For shotshell, I have three Hornady 366s, two MEC Sizemasters, and one MEC Junior. On the metallic side, I have a Hornady L&L AP, an RCBS Rockchucker, two RCBS Juniors, an old Wells "C" press that weighs more than the Rockchucker, a Lyman Acculine that can be used as a hand tool, a Lyman Lubrisizer, and some other odds and ends that need mounting. My idea was to get two half inch steel plates (12X18 inches square) and mount them to the top of my bench about a third of the way in from each end. The plates are bolted to the bench top, and my presses are then mounted to them when I am using a particular press. I have drilled and tapped numerous holes in the steel plates to accept all my different presses. Now when I want to use my Rockchucker press, I take it off the shelf, put it in place on the steel plate and screw two short hex head bolts with washer and lock washer into the plate to hold the press. Now I have room on the bench to use two presses at one time, and I still have room to do other work between the presses. It seems to work well for me, and I am surprised I came up with a new idea after all these years. It will probably be the last good idea I have. Best wishes, Dave Wile

October 9, 2009, 12:06 AM	#6
csmsss Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Orange, TX Posts: 3,078	As far as I'm concerned, it's awfully tough to beat formica for toughness, economy, cleanliness and appearance. Easy to apply with contact cement as well, and definitely my choice for workbenches and the like.

October 9, 2009, 07:25 AM	#8
mongoose33 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 228	Depending on how smooth the surface of the bench is, if it's nice and smooth, I'd probably just put a couple of coats of polyurethane on it. If it's not smooth, I'd look at 1/4" hardboard glued to the top. The top of my main bench is a solid-core door which I've coated with polyurethane. On top of that I have a mat which is used to keep tools from sliding in toolboxes (it's 2x3 feet) for working on my guns--I'll lay rags on top of the mat and it's a nice but absorbent work surface. If i could find a nice rubber mat I might go that way so things don't roll around or skid.

October 9, 2009, 08:01 AM	#11
Foxbat Senior Member Join Date: January 13, 2008 Posts: 367	The way I see it, this is not your transmission rebuild bench, where you will have oils and parts pounded. To me reloading bench should be clean. So what I do is seal the plywood surface with a varnish, and then put on top clean sheets of picture framing matting. Get it in white or some off-white color, so it would look clean and organized. The sheets cost little, and when they get dirty, easy to replace. Personally I don't like dark colors for reloading bench.

October 9, 2009, 08:14 AM	#12
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,060	It's not a place you plan to have oils, but it's not a gimmie that you won't have a lubed case slip onto it from time to time, or that cast bullet lube won't be picked up, or where disassembling a press to change parts won't grease it here and there. I like the disposable aspect of the matboard, but would not be able to use it in my basement shop, which does not always have bone-dry air. I've had too many experiences with dry paper starting rust on steel parts where they are in contact with it. I don't know if that is because I am not using archival grade acid-free paper, or if it is just an artifact of the paper fibers wicking away oil and then holding moisture against the metal? __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

October 9, 2009, 08:26 AM	#13
ZeSpectre Senior Member Join Date: June 4, 2007 Location: Shenandoah Valley Posts: 3,276	I painted mine with some industrial grade grey paint and then I put some of that "fake grass" carpet on it. Things don't bounce or roll around and when the "carpet" gets cruddy I slice off a new piece and lay it down because it's pretty cheap to replace. __________________ "The dogs may bark but the caravan moves on"

October 9, 2009, 08:34 AM	#14
Foxbat Senior Member Join Date: January 13, 2008 Posts: 367	"I've had too many experiences with dry paper starting rust on steel parts where they are in contact with it. I don't know if that is because I am not using archival grade acid-free paper, or if it is just an artifact of the paper fibers wicking away oil and then holding moisture against the metal?" I haven't noticed that, maybe because as you pointed out the mats are acid-free. BTW - another nice feature of the mats - they are double-sided, as their backs are usually of light gray color. They are also quite resistant to minor oil stains. They of course don't like water, but cost is trivial - if you go to a framing shop, they usually have bins full of remnants. What I particularly like about them - every smallest bit is visible on them, every grain of spilled powder, every tiny part.

October 9, 2009, 09:15 AM	#15
Waldog Senior Member Join Date: March 28, 2007 Location: SOCAL Posts: 359	1/4" Tempered hardboard (Masonite). Be sure to use tempered!!! Looks nice, wears like iron, is cheap. Cut it slightly over size, stick it with glue or double sided carpet tape, trim with a flush trim router bit. It you want to dress it up, put on hardwood edgeboard for the table top edges. __________________ I am the Christian Conservative that CNN warned you about!! “Socialism is the philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance and the gospel of envy.” Winston Churchill

October 9, 2009, 09:39 AM	#16
DavidAGO Senior Member Join Date: October 7, 2008 Location: Magnolia, AR Posts: 340	Agree with Waldog, 1/4" tempered hardboard. someone else on this forum had suggested routing a groove about 1/2" in from the edge all the way around to keep cases from rolling off, It is a great idea. I use the hammer type bullet puller, and just whack it directly against the masonite, Pulled sevral bullets, lots of pounding, and you can't tell where I hit the top. I put a drink glass down on the far edge, water doesn't bother it, One shot spray lube wipes right off, lead splatter from casting does not burn it or stick. I think masonite is the cockroach of the building material world, it will survive thermonuclear war. DavidAGO

October 9, 2009, 10:14 AM	#17
Foxbat Senior Member Join Date: January 13, 2008 Posts: 367	Masonite will absorb water and swell, with time. Any leak will be devastating.

October 9, 2009, 10:58 AM	#19
Ranger325 Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2005 Location: NW Ohio Posts: 428	For about $30 I put some nice black with white and grey fleck Formica on my benches. Remnants. Wears well and clens up very nice - I'm very happy! Sorry, no pics......... Regards, __________________ Ranger325 "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf. " George Orwell

October 9, 2009, 11:47 AM	#20
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	a piece of stock kitchen counter Formica from Lowe's or HD - glued and screwed to the base will be smooth and impervious to just about anything

October 9, 2009, 12:09 PM	#21
roscotnt Member Join Date: September 3, 2009 Location: missouri Posts: 16	waterman, there is a roll of non skid rubber you can get, paper mills use it to keep rolls of paper stock from moving in transit, they just toss it in trash when roll is delivered, if you know a trucker or live neer a papermill, it is usually free,, or,, have you given thought to non skid shelving liner? its like a rubber, wally world sells it in the potnpan area as shelf liner, also harbor frieght sells some of the same thing as a toolbox drawer liner,, it looks like dots connected on a sheet,, good stuff,,, good luck __________________ guns dont kill people, people kill people

October 9, 2009, 01:25 PM	#22
yrralguthrie Member Join Date: July 2, 2009 Posts: 56	If you're really interested in the floor mat type of material, try a industrial supply company. mcmaster.com is a good one Or a farm/ranch supply store will have horse stall mats. From memory these are 4ft by 6ft about 1/2 to 5/8 inch thick and very tough. Less than 50 bucks. ljg

October 9, 2009, 01:57 PM	#23
Citywaterman Member Join Date: March 30, 2009 Posts: 99	Thanks for all the suggestions I appreciate all the suggestions for materials to use on my work bench top. I believe that I will use several coats for a thick polyurathane coating. This will give me a protective coating and allow me to keep the natural finish of the wood. I found a neopreme mat large enough for a work surface at Harbour Freights. This is a work in progress project. I see that some of you have been making changes to your work benches for years and still making changes. Thanks again, Citywaterman I sumarized all your suggestions to date: Anyone looking for a good material to use for their bench top. Here's the list of suggestions: industrial linoleum (real linoleum, not vinyl) polyurethane finished plywood with rubber contact cement so there would not be any nail or screw holes formica (1/4-3/8-or 1/2") PVC 1/4" thick smooth rubber belting material couple of coats of polyurethane neoprene foam sheet white coated tempered Masonite (whiteboard) (masonite is the cockroach of the building material world) anti-static mat matboard fake grass" carpet archival grade acid-free paper 1/4" Tempered hardboard Anti static rubber floor tiles stock kitchen counter Formica from Lowe's or HD roll of non skid rubber you can get, paper mills non skid shelving liner white and grey fleck Formica

October 9, 2009, 05:21 PM	#24
perley03 Member Join Date: December 28, 2007 Location: The Woods, Maine Posts: 25	Leave your 3/4" plywood top, go to an automotive store (NAPA, Car Quest, Advanced Auto, etc) and buy Herculiner and roll it on. It's rubberized truck bed coating, its tough as nails and anything that is placed on it grips really well.

October 9, 2009, 06:46 PM	#25
JD 500 Senior Member Join Date: March 15, 2005 Location: Colorado Posts: 110	I use Masonite, screwed on, anticipating I would need to replace it, but it's held up great. It's taken many drops of Hoppe's, oils, etc plus a water / soda spill here and there. Have used it maybe 3-4 years now and at this rate I could easily double or triple that before it would need be replaced. Used 1/4 round trim with the round side facing in to trim around sides and rear to keep stuff from rolling off.