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Old August 10, 2016, 05:08 PM   #26
uwmac
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Ohhhh one last thought. Check out a product called Snow Seal comes in a little tub at the shoe store or WalMart. Best release agent available!! One tub is a lifetime supply.
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Old August 10, 2016, 05:50 PM   #27
HiBC
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Silicone and beeswax.I used to put it on my boots.I have not tried it as a release.
If it works for you,great!!.

Something to consider.With all the chemistry of two part catylization,different molecules are meeting and dancing and going through changes.

It CAN happen that introducing a third molecule...can "cut in" on the dance.

Sometimes introducing silicone can mess up the cure on the surface.You get a soft and sticky.

I have not had Johnson paste wax fail me yet.Or the PVA Brownells includes.
I'm sure other things work,but beware stunting the cure out of the resin in contact
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Old August 11, 2016, 10:44 AM   #28
uwmac
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No real way to avoid some chemistry with the release agent regardless of what the make up. The goal is to use the minimum amount (mass and volume)possible to prevent bonding between the stock and metal components. I have used lots of stuff including riteous mold release agent geared for making large composite molds/plugs. Snow seal was an accident I ran across one day when I spilled the acraglass release agent by accident. Works best of anything I've ever tried
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Old August 12, 2016, 03:14 PM   #29
natman
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I like green box Acraglass GEL. The red box Acraglass is for mending cracked stocks and is too thin for easy bedding use. The GEL is thick enough to be easy to work with, sets up slowly and produces great results.

I've had excellent results with Johnson's Paste Wax as a release agent. I've also heard many positive feedbacks about Kiwi Neutral shoe polish and it has the advantage of being inexpensive and available everywhere.
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Old August 20, 2016, 06:23 PM   #30
Shimpy
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Why release agents? I shot in a national benchrest match in Knoxville in the mid 70"s and McMillian showed up with a "glued" action and did very well.
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Old August 20, 2016, 06:57 PM   #31
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Most want the ability to easily remove the stocks if needed.
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Old August 20, 2016, 10:19 PM   #32
Clark
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I am trying to build 5 or 6 rifles and go hunting in a month or two.

Last night I was working on the minimum cost rifle and glass bedded the recoil lug and then later the same day, the rear pillar and the spacer under the front recoil lug that touches the bottom metal.

I came up with a way of steel bedding Mausers so that the bottom of the recoil lug is pinching steel that abuts the lug in the rear and reacts to the front action screw.

Last night it was a $45 mass sporterized Arisaka with Springfield barrel. I have $3 rings from EBay and a $17 bipod from Amazon.
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Old August 20, 2016, 10:30 PM   #33
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The first rifle is ready to go. The sporterizers made it a 300Sav. I reamed it out to 308.

The cheek rest is a $6 Allen ammo carrier with 5 layers of packing foam under it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LC655Q/

The next concept rifle will be light weight. 6mmBR
Here is a pic of me drilling a hole in it.

Then there is a long range. 7mmRM

Then there is an expensive. 25-06 [We won't tell the wife about THAT idea.]

Then there is a nice factory rifle. 25-06

Maybe a wild card, maybe last year's best rifle, in case all these are failures.
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"Ad hominem fallacy" is not the same as point by point criticism of books. If you bought the book, and believe it all, it may FEEL like an ad hominem attack, but you might strive to accept other points of view may exist.
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Old August 21, 2016, 10:50 AM   #34
natman
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Quote:
Why release agents? I shot in a national benchrest match in Knoxville in the mid 70"s and McMillian showed up with a "glued" action and did very well.
It's one thing for a single shot bench rifle with the stock drilled so you can remove the trigger. It's not very practical for a sporter that requires occasional cleaning and servicing.
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