March 20, 2008, 10:54 PM | #1 |
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Stainless S&W Hammers
There's a fellow on GB selling an inventory of S&W revolver parts. He has a few stainless hammers for sale. Are there any special considerations when working on these (e.g. stoning them)?
*I'm not intending to stone one, but am wondering in case I were to have one installed. |
March 20, 2008, 11:56 PM | #2 |
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They are most likely flash-chromed hammers and not stainless at all. At any rate, one stones a S&W hammer little if at all.
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March 21, 2008, 05:51 AM | #3 |
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If you're talking about Smith revolver hammers, you don't want to stone it. All fitting and adjustment should be done to the sear and trigger. There's not enough material on the hammer. Stoning it will simply cut through the case hardening and pretty much ruin it.
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March 21, 2008, 02:20 PM | #4 |
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Here's an example of what I'm talking about - http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...?Item=95067371
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March 21, 2008, 07:20 PM | #5 |
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Only the very early S&W Model 60 and a few early Model 66's actually had real stainless steel hammers and triggers.
Early on, S&W determined that they didn't like the way the stainless steel parts wore, so they quickly changed to standard case hardened carbon steel parts, to which they applied a flash coat of hard chrome to match the actual stainless frame and cylinder. Later in the 1990's, as a cost savings, S&W stopped applying the hard chrome. In any case, NEVER stone or alter S&W hammers or triggers. The case hardened coating is extremely thin, and virtually ANY amount of stoning will break through the coating, exposing the soft inner metal, and ruining the part. A sure and certain sign that an incompetent "gunsmith" has been inside a S&W are stoned hammers and triggers. The factory and most real gunsmiths will automatically replace any S&W hammers or triggers that show signs of stoning since it's almost certain the parts are not safe and are ruined. So, the parts for sale are almost certainly NOT stainless steel, they're standard plated parts as used on all S&W stainless guns up until the 90's, and under no circumstances should you stone a revolver hammer or trigger, S&W or any other brand. It's very common for people on the net to claim that guns or parts are stainless steel, when they're in fact, hard chrome plated. When asked if the parts aren't really plated, they invariably swear they're stainless, since to them, they LOOK stainless. |
March 21, 2008, 08:23 PM | #6 |
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good to know - thanks
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March 31, 2008, 12:38 PM | #7 |
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I saw that listing as well and I hope this isn't considered a highjack, but what about bobbing the hammer for use in my model 60? Just in the initial thought process of this as I was at the range last week and the hammer hung up once, which is once too much.
Thoughts? Thank you. |
March 31, 2008, 12:58 PM | #8 |
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FWIW, stoning S&W triggers began as a means of smoothing them up and removing the roughness left by the tooling marks, which ran crosswise and sometimes produced a sort of "washboard" effect.
Today, one of the serious "bennies" of MIM is that the MIM triggers I have seen are totally smooth, never having been machined, so stoning triggers should never be necessary on the new S&W revolvers. Jim |
March 31, 2008, 07:18 PM | #9 |
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what about bobbing the hammer
As long as the gun still has the factory springs in it, bobbing the hammer should not cause any problems with reliability. |
March 31, 2008, 10:22 PM | #10 | |
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