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Old June 13, 2012, 04:31 PM   #1
frankgh
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Big No No for cleaning a Hornady LnL Press (or anything else that has powder on it!)

A lesson learned the hard way:

I spent a fair amount of time lurking the forums and researching reloading. I just got a Glock 20 and to be able to shoot it has much as I want, I figured reloading would become economical very quickly.

The Hornady LnL Progressive seemed to be the the ticket I was looking for and I picked one up at a local brick and mortar for only about $20 more than it would have been on-line. Internet shopping is invaluable but supporting your local experts is very important too!

I got it home, watched the videos (many times over) and set up my new press. I had all kinds of friendly advice from my neighbors on how to clean the new press instead of using the recommended One Shot Cleaner/Dry Lube. After all the reading I had done, I made sure only to use the recommended cleaning procedure on the press so if I had to call Hornady about any problems I was having, I could say I had followed the instructions to the letter.

Ok, the press is set up and while I'm waiting for my star line brass to show up, I'll reload the 50 federal cases I have from the box of ammo I bought with the gun. I have a few issues with primer feeding and make a bit of a mess but stay on top of things, clean the mess and proceed slowly. The powder drop is making VERY consistent loads and the cartridges group very nicely on the range the next day.

Right after loading the last round and cleaning the press up, I notice I have a lot of powder sticking to the walls of the powder drop hopper. Static of course but the powder is also sticking to the metal internals of the drop as well. Drops were consistent but I must have not cleaned the drop as well has I should have to start with. No problem, I'll just hit it with some brake cleaner and that will take care of that. WRONG! Remember my very good advice of sticking with the recommended cleaner? I should have followed it! The brake cleaner plasticized the left over powder and even loosened the red paint. The grains of powder that were just clinging to the plastic hopper had now welded themselves in place. The metal parts all came clean but the left over powder was gluing itself together. It was like peeling skin off the metal surfaces.

After a thorough cleaning with One Shot and a few days to collect my courage to try again, I reloaded some .38's. No primer feed issues, consistent powder drops and no mess. I'm not the fastest (only about 250 rounds an hour) but I was check every 5-10th powder drop and going very slowly. The rounds turned out great. As for accuracy? I don't know, I have a S&W 642 and it disappears in my hand when I grip it. I keep them all in the 7 ring but there really is no grouping.

The bottom line is stay with the recommended cleaning procedure and you'll be fine!

I found a cool video about the primer feed on youtube. This guy's video was very helpful!:

http://youtu.be/aB1cTeRz7sI
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Old June 13, 2012, 06:35 PM   #2
Uncle Buck
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Welcome to the reloading forum.

Good advice for a first post and a heck of a learning experience.

I am waiting for a progressive I am buying from another member here on the forum and look forward to playing with it.
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Old June 13, 2012, 06:55 PM   #3
dacaur
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I gasped out loud when I read the words "brake cleaner".... My wife asked what as wrong..... Thats a hard lesson to learn on a brand new press.... did you lose any paint or did it harden back up? I would never use brake cleaner on anything plastic or painted, it breaks down/melts plastic, removes paint, and will quickly remove stickers/graphics...
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Old June 13, 2012, 07:07 PM   #4
frankgh
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The only lasting damage was the powder now welded to the plastic hopper. The paint on the powder drop dried up just fine and now powder does not cling to anything. Yes, I was very lucky!
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Old June 14, 2012, 06:05 AM   #5
Uncle Buck
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Somewhere, maybe here, was a recommendation to run a pound of powder or graphite through the machine before actually using it.

I also seem to remember someone said you could use the anti-static cling spray ladies use on their skirts or even dryer sheets.
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Old June 14, 2012, 08:36 AM   #6
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Sounds like you're okay now.

I've never seen the need to "clean" any of my powder measures. I'll dump them out, cycle a few times to dump any remaining powder flakes and then refill with the next powder. If I was concerned about any clingers a shot of compressed air or a wipe with a dry rag takes care of that nicely.

I don't clean my presses either. I'll lube the moving parts and give it an occasional wipe down, but that's it. Powder, walnut, or other bits that accumulate on top are blown off with compressed air.
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Old June 14, 2012, 12:46 PM   #7
CS86
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Quote:
I've never seen the need to "clean" any of my powder measures. I'll dump them out, cycle a few times to dump any remaining powder flakes and then refill with the next powder.
With the Hornady parts, they come new with a sticky, greasy like film as an anti rust/tarnish protectant. Before the first use of there equipment its recommended to clean them for the whole powder sticking reason. After the initial cleaning I don't think there really is a need to clean them as long as your environment is clean.

I used carb cleaner initially on all the metal parts. I can't remember if I ran some down the plastic tube or not, but I haven't had any problems...yet. Its so much cheaper than One shot...that stuff is spendy. I'm glad you shared the experience.
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Old June 14, 2012, 01:36 PM   #8
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Old June 16, 2012, 10:58 AM   #9
tom234
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FYI....the Hornady spray cleaner and dry lube Hornady recommends to clean/degrease the press will also melt the plastic powder measurer hopper.
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Old June 16, 2012, 02:17 PM   #10
frankgh
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I saw no adverse reaction to the plastic hopper with the Hornady spray lube. The brake cleaner is another story!
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Old June 16, 2012, 02:29 PM   #11
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Doesn't seem to be bothering mine either.
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Old June 16, 2012, 03:06 PM   #12
Nathan
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That's interesting. I find IPA to be best for plastics and brake cleaner to be best for metal internals. I'm sort of careful about not getting it on the paint. hmm. graphite afterwards.
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Old June 16, 2012, 03:19 PM   #13
frankgh
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IPA=
International Phonetic Alphabet
India Pale Ale
Innovations for Poverty Action
OH! Isopropyl alcohol!

It did not immediately come up on the Google search, it was listed as Searches related to IPA...

I was at a Joint Spec ops brief once (Army and Air Force combined Op) and the briefer was speaking in acronyms like you would expect but he said one I had never heard before, I interrupted him and asked him what it stood for... He didn't know either!!
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Old June 16, 2012, 05:14 PM   #14
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We all have to learn the restrictions of brake cleaner in our own way. I dissolved the plastic crimp starter, of a MEC* shot shell loader, many years ago.
*Mayville Engineering Company
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Old June 16, 2012, 10:53 PM   #15
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I followed the instructions to a "T" and never had a problem setting up and using my new LnL press....until I started loading .223. The Hornady case lube did not work for me as advertised and I ended up getting a case stuck in the die. I ended up buying a new set of dies and now use the RCBS lube pad without any more problems. I also keep a can of compressed air handy to keep the primer feeder clean of powder, as well as the Shell Plate.

I found that the new RCBS tube bullet loaded works great for loading my 9mm & .38's rounds. It speed up the loading process and eliminates the possibility of pinched fingers. I ordered mine direct from RCBS for less than 40 Bucks.

https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/Mai...2+New+Products

http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instru...FeederInst.pdf
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Old June 17, 2012, 07:40 PM   #16
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Yep, brake cleaner- whether chlorinated or non-chlorinated- is one very potent solvent-in-a-can.

For what it's worth, for my powder measures, etc. I use(d) mineral spirits, Stoddard Solvent, Varsol, whatever name is in vogue with it. Works well and no unwanted solvency.
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Old June 18, 2012, 09:37 AM   #17
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Brake cleaner has its uses - especially for cleaning plastic wad buildup out of shotgun barrels or choke threads - it is a very strong, fast-acting solvent and should not be used on plastics, wood or similar surfaces

Hornady's OneShot and their spray lube have some nasty components to them as well. Read the cautions about ventilation, etc.

The dryer sheets do a decent job for removing static cling as they leave a slight wax coating on the surface preventing anything from sticking
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Old June 18, 2012, 11:59 PM   #18
wobbly
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Nice press, good to hear functionality isn't destroyed...brake cleaner is strong as hell!
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