Many Thanks (previous Post)

joedjr · May 19, 2009, 06:17 AM

This is in relpy to the following post in case you guys don't get back to it:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357593

Thank You very much to all the information everyone has offered. Though I have been shooting and hunting now for 40 years it certainly does not make me an expert at reloading. I have loaded about 500 rounds so far. One thing I did do was read 3 different books/manuals. I know this doesn't make me an expert but I have no one else to help me so was relying on the manuals to teach me.
When I started to reload the 40 S&W I really only wanted 6.0 of the unigue. What happened was when I was dropping the powder it slowly creped up on me. I did weigh almost every other round or so and know it was never more than 6.5. That was probably my 1st major mistake. I didn't realize that these 1/10 increments made such a big impact.
My second mistake may have been the seating. I crimped the bullet like the manual said, but maybe not quite enough. It said turn 1/8 to crimp I did 1/4 more. When I went and checked the seating today, I logged the number and than tapped on some of the tops of the bullets with a small tap hammer and some did move down a bit. This also may contributed.
Also, it may have been the brass. I bought the brass on line as once fired. I checked each case visually and they seemed fine.
What I will do in the future when the gun comes back is load at the start and weigh every load, make sure the crimp is tight and buy new brass.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks again guys for all the help.
Joe

Sevens · May 19, 2009, 07:13 AM

First suggestion, and please understand that I'm not trying to talk down or come off as a jerk, but when you have something to add to an ongoing discussion, by all means, put it in the original thread and don't make a new thread. Each time you post to an ongoing thread it goes right to the top of the forum to be read by all. Each time you start a new thread, it's one more thread on the forum.

If we can keep all related discussion in the same thread, we won't see so many other good threads get pushed down to the bottom. Makes the forum runs better and easier to navigate.

Next suggestion is to be careful with your crimp and what it actually does to your loaded rounds. In a semi-auto round like the .40 S&W, your die is putting on a taper crimp. Basically, it removes the case mouth flare but it's not a roll crimp like you have with a revolver round. A taper crimp really doesn't affect bullet pull or case mouth tension much. And giving more more MORE crimp will only result in the brass case getting shaved with no more grip on the bullet.

When I'm setting up semi-auto rounds with a different bullet, I tend to take the loaded cartridge and push it nose-first in to the edge of my wooden bench top. Try to "hand simulate" a cartridge getting shucked in to the feed ramp of a pistol by force. It needn't be done like a gorilla, but checked periodically for safety. A bullet that sets back and shortens the COAL and internal space is much less of a problem if you aren't already loading a MAX load.

Good luck! Remember that .40 S&W is perhaps the single LEAST forgiving caliber that anyone can reload.

Al Norris · May 19, 2009, 08:01 AM

Because Joe went and posted the same info in the original thread, albeit two minutes later, I'll just close this one as the duplicate.

May 19, 2009, 06:17 AM	#1
joedjr Junior Member Join Date: May 14, 2009 Posts: 9	Many Thanks (previous Post) This is in relpy to the following post in case you guys don't get back to it: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357593 Thank You very much to all the information everyone has offered. Though I have been shooting and hunting now for 40 years it certainly does not make me an expert at reloading. I have loaded about 500 rounds so far. One thing I did do was read 3 different books/manuals. I know this doesn't make me an expert but I have no one else to help me so was relying on the manuals to teach me. When I started to reload the 40 S&W I really only wanted 6.0 of the unigue. What happened was when I was dropping the powder it slowly creped up on me. I did weigh almost every other round or so and know it was never more than 6.5. That was probably my 1st major mistake. I didn't realize that these 1/10 increments made such a big impact. My second mistake may have been the seating. I crimped the bullet like the manual said, but maybe not quite enough. It said turn 1/8 to crimp I did 1/4 more. When I went and checked the seating today, I logged the number and than tapped on some of the tops of the bullets with a small tap hammer and some did move down a bit. This also may contributed. Also, it may have been the brass. I bought the brass on line as once fired. I checked each case visually and they seemed fine. What I will do in the future when the gun comes back is load at the start and weigh every load, make sure the crimp is tight and buy new brass. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again guys for all the help. Joe

May 19, 2009, 07:13 AM	#2
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	First suggestion, and please understand that I'm not trying to talk down or come off as a jerk, but when you have something to add to an ongoing discussion, by all means, put it in the original thread and don't make a new thread. Each time you post to an ongoing thread it goes right to the top of the forum to be read by all. Each time you start a new thread, it's one more thread on the forum. If we can keep all related discussion in the same thread, we won't see so many other good threads get pushed down to the bottom. Makes the forum runs better and easier to navigate. Next suggestion is to be careful with your crimp and what it actually does to your loaded rounds. In a semi-auto round like the .40 S&W, your die is putting on a taper crimp. Basically, it removes the case mouth flare but it's not a roll crimp like you have with a revolver round. A taper crimp really doesn't affect bullet pull or case mouth tension much. And giving more more MORE crimp will only result in the brass case getting shaved with no more grip on the bullet. When I'm setting up semi-auto rounds with a different bullet, I tend to take the loaded cartridge and push it nose-first in to the edge of my wooden bench top. Try to "hand simulate" a cartridge getting shucked in to the feed ramp of a pistol by force. It needn't be done like a gorilla, but checked periodically for safety. A bullet that sets back and shortens the COAL and internal space is much less of a problem if you aren't already loading a MAX load. Good luck! Remember that .40 S&W is perhaps the single LEAST forgiving caliber that anyone can reload. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

May 19, 2009, 08:01 AM	#3
Al Norris Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 29, 2000 Location: Rupert, Idaho Posts: 9,660	Because Joe went and posted the same info in the original thread, albeit two minutes later, I'll just close this one as the duplicate.