Quick Primer ? .223 Cases

nightsun · February 5, 2009, 09:21 AM

For some reason I am having a problem when it comes to depriming the cases. Out of three batches only one batch had the primers removed cleanly. Most are coming out like what you see in the pic with a rim around the edge of the removed primer. This ridge does not allow the new primer to go in at all. The ones in the pic are Federal cases I got from Walmart (I know) and the others are .223 Rem...I am having issues with both. I tried to debur the primer pocket but it did not help. I have tried adjusting and readjusting the die but it does not help either. The literature that came with the RCBS die siad to adjust so the rod is out 3/16" from the die head. I tried this and it will not punch the used primer all the way out. I have to have it adjusted at least 1/2"-3/4" out. I did notice that after tumbling in the Lyman cleaner, their is a media particle stuck in the primer pocket on about 90% of the cases. Is it absolutely necessary to remove it prior to depriming? Thus far, on the cases I have deprimed the old primer is getting punched out along with this particle. Can anyone help this rookie out? Maybe I just need better quality brass... Thanks again.

CrustyFN · February 5, 2009, 09:58 AM

Good picture. That is a crimped primer pocket and the crimp has to be removed before you can seat a new primer. There are many ways to do that. If you don't have a lot you can remove the crimp with your chamfer tool, just a few twists will do. Hornady and RCBS make a primer pocket reamer that can be put in a drill. I use a dull drill bit, be careful not to remove too much. Dillon makes a swage tool that is probably the best but not cheap. I think RCBS makes a swage tool that is mounted in a press but not sure how good it works. All mil-spec brass will have a crimp. If you have a lot to do I would recommend a pocket reamer or swage tool. If you don't have a lot the chamfer tool will work fine.
Rusty

FlyFish · February 5, 2009, 10:09 AM

The RCBS primer swage is not very expensive and does work, though it can require a bit of finesse. The instructions implied (to me anyway) that you really needed to use a good bit of force to radius the edge of the primer pocket, the result being that I managed to bend the rod that goes down inside the case. A new rod (two, actually, and free from RCBS Customer Service - the rep I spoke mentioned that he bends them from time to time as well) got me back in business and the second time around, using greater care, I was able to remove the crimp from about 1,000 cases with no further problems.

So, if you decide to go that route, a few tips: swage as little as you can get away with; do the swaging before you resize, which will leave the case mouth a bit larger and make it easier to get the rod down inside the case; slide the case onto the rod rather than try to lower the rod into the case, and get a large 1" ID washer to slide over the press ram so releasing the case doesn't cut into the finish on your press. All of that will likely make a bit more sense if you actually have the swage kit in hand.

nightsun · February 5, 2009, 12:03 PM

Thanks a lot guys. This helps a lot. I will pick up this tool today. I was worried I would not be able to use these cases. This leads me to another ?...what should I look for in order to avoid the crimped pockets? Are there certain brands of ammo that are easier/better to reload? Eitherway, thanks again.

PCJim · February 5, 2009, 12:19 PM

Nightsun, your problem was identified and remedies recommended above. As to what brands to look for in commercially available ammo, that's hard to say. Federal currently has the contract to operate the Lake City ammunition factory which is what I attribute their bulk ammo sold at Walmart being marked with the LC08 headstamp, or at least mine was here in S. FL.

I have only purchased the one bulk box of Federal. I reload all my 223 requirements with brass retrieved from a public range. I believe I can say that I've found crimps in every headstamp that I've come across but it is not consistent. As an example, I've found crimps in some FC headstamps and yet other FC may have no crimp. Same with Winchester.

BTW, I use the Hornady pocket reamer in a variable speed drill which has the ability to lock a low rpm speed setting. Swaging didn't work well for me, but other's prefer it rather than removing precious brass from the case head. I also suggest you either mark the prepped cases or use a brass catcher, only so that you do not invest a lot of time only to use the prepped brass one time. I use a UTG brass catcher on both AR's, available from MidwayUSA, which works well when properly adjusted.

yosemitesamaz · February 5, 2009, 01:16 PM

like every one said swage it and yor good too go

armedtotheteeth · February 5, 2009, 01:37 PM

Just how many primers did you screw up trying???

Dont feel bad.. I set off a few when some un swaged brass showed up in my swaged brass.. "DAMNIT WHAT THE FARK was that??" says my wifey

nightsun · February 5, 2009, 05:32 PM

I picked up a Lyman hand held reamer for 14 bucks. I also picked up a 100 .223 cases...damn .223 cases are more then actual 7.62 x 39 rounds.

As for the primers...I only ruined a couple. As soon as I felt too much resistance I removed the case. I am somewhat curious to see how loud a primer going off in the garage would be however...?

rwilson452 · February 5, 2009, 09:05 PM

it's loud. About like a 22 in a short barreled pistol

As for the primers...I only ruined a couple. As soon as I felt too much resistance I removed the case. I am somewhat curious to see how loud a primer going off in the garage would be however...?

February 5, 2009, 09:21 AM	#1
nightsun Junior Member Join Date: January 26, 2009 Posts: 8	Quick Primer ? .223 Cases For some reason I am having a problem when it comes to depriming the cases. Out of three batches only one batch had the primers removed cleanly. Most are coming out like what you see in the pic with a rim around the edge of the removed primer. This ridge does not allow the new primer to go in at all. The ones in the pic are Federal cases I got from Walmart (I know) and the others are .223 Rem...I am having issues with both. I tried to debur the primer pocket but it did not help. I have tried adjusting and readjusting the die but it does not help either. The literature that came with the RCBS die siad to adjust so the rod is out 3/16" from the die head. I tried this and it will not punch the used primer all the way out. I have to have it adjusted at least 1/2"-3/4" out. I did notice that after tumbling in the Lyman cleaner, their is a media particle stuck in the primer pocket on about 90% of the cases. Is it absolutely necessary to remove it prior to depriming? Thus far, on the cases I have deprimed the old primer is getting punched out along with this particle. Can anyone help this rookie out? Maybe I just need better quality brass... Thanks again.

February 5, 2009, 09:58 AM	#2
CrustyFN Senior Member Join Date: June 4, 2006 Location: West Virginia Posts: 2,258	Good picture. That is a crimped primer pocket and the crimp has to be removed before you can seat a new primer. There are many ways to do that. If you don't have a lot you can remove the crimp with your chamfer tool, just a few twists will do. Hornady and RCBS make a primer pocket reamer that can be put in a drill. I use a dull drill bit, be careful not to remove too much. Dillon makes a swage tool that is probably the best but not cheap. I think RCBS makes a swage tool that is mounted in a press but not sure how good it works. All mil-spec brass will have a crimp. If you have a lot to do I would recommend a pocket reamer or swage tool. If you don't have a lot the chamfer tool will work fine. Rusty __________________ I don't ever remember being absent minded.

February 5, 2009, 09:05 PM	#9
rwilson452 Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2004 Location: Tioga co. PA Posts: 2,647	it's loud. About like a 22 in a short barreled pistol As for the primers...I only ruined a couple. As soon as I felt too much resistance I removed the case. I am somewhat curious to see how loud a primer going off in the garage would be however...? __________________ USNRET '61-'81

February 5, 2009, 10:09 AM	#3
FlyFish Senior Member Join Date: January 20, 2009 Location: Overlooking the Baker River Valley Posts: 1,723	The RCBS primer swage is not very expensive and does work, though it can require a bit of finesse. The instructions implied (to me anyway) that you really needed to use a good bit of force to radius the edge of the primer pocket, the result being that I managed to bend the rod that goes down inside the case. A new rod (two, actually, and free from RCBS Customer Service - the rep I spoke mentioned that he bends them from time to time as well) got me back in business and the second time around, using greater care, I was able to remove the crimp from about 1,000 cases with no further problems. So, if you decide to go that route, a few tips: swage as little as you can get away with; do the swaging before you resize, which will leave the case mouth a bit larger and make it easier to get the rod down inside the case; slide the case onto the rod rather than try to lower the rod into the case, and get a large 1" ID washer to slide over the press ram so releasing the case doesn't cut into the finish on your press. All of that will likely make a bit more sense if you actually have the swage kit in hand.

February 5, 2009, 12:03 PM	#4
nightsun Junior Member Join Date: January 26, 2009 Posts: 8	Thanks a lot guys. This helps a lot. I will pick up this tool today. I was worried I would not be able to use these cases. This leads me to another ?...what should I look for in order to avoid the crimped pockets? Are there certain brands of ammo that are easier/better to reload? Eitherway, thanks again.

February 5, 2009, 12:19 PM	#5
PCJim Senior Member Join Date: July 11, 2008 Location: FL Posts: 570	Nightsun, your problem was identified and remedies recommended above. As to what brands to look for in commercially available ammo, that's hard to say. Federal currently has the contract to operate the Lake City ammunition factory which is what I attribute their bulk ammo sold at Walmart being marked with the LC08 headstamp, or at least mine was here in S. FL. I have only purchased the one bulk box of Federal. I reload all my 223 requirements with brass retrieved from a public range. I believe I can say that I've found crimps in every headstamp that I've come across but it is not consistent. As an example, I've found crimps in some FC headstamps and yet other FC may have no crimp. Same with Winchester. BTW, I use the Hornady pocket reamer in a variable speed drill which has the ability to lock a low rpm speed setting. Swaging didn't work well for me, but other's prefer it rather than removing precious brass from the case head. I also suggest you either mark the prepped cases or use a brass catcher, only so that you do not invest a lot of time only to use the prepped brass one time. I use a UTG brass catcher on both AR's, available from MidwayUSA, which works well when properly adjusted.

February 5, 2009, 01:16 PM	#6
yosemitesamaz Member Join Date: December 15, 2008 Location: az. Posts: 68	like every one said swage it and yor good too go

February 5, 2009, 01:37 PM	#7
armedtotheteeth Senior Member Join Date: October 3, 2005 Location: podunk, Texas Posts: 1,610	Just how many primers did you screw up trying??? Dont feel bad.. I set off a few when some un swaged brass showed up in my swaged brass.. "DAMNIT WHAT THE FARK was that??" says my wifey

February 5, 2009, 05:32 PM	#8
nightsun Junior Member Join Date: January 26, 2009 Posts: 8	I picked up a Lyman hand held reamer for 14 bucks. I also picked up a 100 .223 cases...damn .223 cases are more then actual 7.62 x 39 rounds. As for the primers...I only ruined a couple. As soon as I felt too much resistance I removed the case. I am somewhat curious to see how loud a primer going off in the garage would be however...?