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December 18, 2008, 12:42 PM | #26 |
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I don't argue with the theories as much as I do the practicality.
That is, with respect to cooling, the idea is to function as do the fins on the cylinder head of a motorcycle. The barrel is intended to be stiffer for a given weight. Well, yeah, I guess so. The ribs give a larger outside diameter, which makes for a stiffer column. Trouble is, for most shooting, the improvement doesn't appear to be enough to matter. The increase in surface area for radiation of the heat doesn't appear to be much larger, and barrel stiffness is (IMO) less of a factor than harmonics. Which gets us back to "coolth". |
December 18, 2008, 12:51 PM | #27 | |
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December 19, 2008, 08:43 AM | #28 |
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RAT???
Another of my thoughts is this. Does Fluting only work on Stainless???? Its funny to me the only fluted guns(in the stores) that I see are the nice shinny stainless. Does fluting not work on the plain old Blued ones??? I think I smell A RAT.
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December 19, 2008, 09:03 AM | #29 |
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I think the stainless is harder so the previously mentioned problem of hitting soft spots is not as critical.
Did anyone look at my helical fluted, threaded, stainless, 10/22 barrel. It is so cute. I'll bet it shoots like crap, but I didn't buy a semi-auto 22lr to shoot off a bench. In fact I didn't buy any of my rifles for that. |
December 19, 2008, 09:26 AM | #30 | |
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There is no reason mechanically why a steel barrel can't be fluted. There is a reason economically. A steel barrel has to be polished to some extent and degreased before blueing, that takes time which costs money. It also requires processes during the blueing process. You can imagine the greater time it would take with a fluted barrel rather than a cylinder. Then also polishing the barrel in any time of good time, while trying to maintain the definition of the flute edges, would be difficult . With stainless it's fluted and then it's pretty much done. Then you have to consider rust. That flute will tend to collect contamination that will cause rust. Then the edges of the flutes will wear. You'll end up with silver lines at the edges. Note that when blueing wears it always wears on the edges first. When it wears on a cylinder it tends to wear evenly across the item. Last edited by garryc; December 19, 2008 at 09:40 AM. |
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December 19, 2008, 11:10 AM | #31 | |
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I believe the current 700VS series has a blued barrel with flutes. |
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December 19, 2008, 11:42 AM | #32 | |
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I didn't tak into account those blued rifles that are bead blasted and matte blued, I was thinking more along the lines of a BDL finnish |
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December 20, 2008, 11:03 AM | #33 |
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I know that there are Blue Fluted barrels out there. I just saying that most of the barrels that one sees in the Gun Stores are Stainless,fluted. These are very nice looking guns and I think they are produced mainly to catch the customers EYE. It has yet to be proved that there is A definable advantage to fluting.
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December 20, 2008, 12:57 PM | #34 | |
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The Lewis gun had lots of flutes, and the jacket was designed with the thought of drawing air through the flutes as rounds were fired. Was not worth the machining effort and was an evolutionary dead end. I don't want flutes on a match rifle, don't want the barrel walking as it heats up, and flutes are just another thing that could cause that. |
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December 20, 2008, 01:08 PM | #35 |
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Theories aside, I have some first hand experience with one barrel on an AR-15. It started as a one inch diameter Model 1 stainless. It shot good, with some loads making one hole, 5 shot groups at 100yds. It was very front heavy though. A machinist friend put 5, pretty deep flutes in it. This made a big difference in balance and weight and it still shoots with the same great accuracy. Just FWIW.
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