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Old April 21, 2013, 10:51 AM   #26
buck460XVR
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Prehaps today that is true, but with past lots I 'suspect' that was NOT always true.

No "perhaps" about it. This has been confirmed by Hodgdon itself. This is why their published load recipes are all exactly the same using the two powders. Variance between the two labeled powders is no different than the difference between lots of the same labeled powder. If one is using 20 year old powder, and "suspects" the manufacturing process has changed, they should use the appropriate 20 year old information. big26john claims he is new to reloading, so is probably using modern powder with his modern published loads. If he is using modern load recipes with 20 year old powder, he probably needs to find other info.........regardless of the powder used. My experience is that the substitution of Hornady bullets for the Noslers in Hodgdon's recipe and the use of other magnum primers, using the powder charge he stated, will make little if any difference.

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There is a slight difference between H-110 and Win 296. 296 isn't coated with graphite. Primary reason to coat: By protecting the nitrates from humidity. Graphite coating offers a longer shelf life and a couple other reasons also associated with the process
Graphite is not used to stabilize smokeless powder. It is a lubricant used to cover the grains so they don't stick together and measure better. It also dissipates static electricity. There are other stabilizers used to prevent or slow down decomposition. Graphite would have no influence on whether or not magnum primers are needed to ignite. This is dependent on the type and amount of deterrent used to slow burn rate.


big26john is a new reloader asking for legitimate help. We at least should give him legitimate information. Reloading is a continuous learning process, even for us that have years of experience. Components, recipes and procedures are always changing, but the pursuit of safety and the quest for the "perfect" load is always the same.
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Old April 22, 2013, 06:19 AM   #27
Mike / Tx
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big26john is a new reloader asking for legitimate help. We at least should give him legitimate information. Reloading is a continuous learning process, even for us that have years of experience. Components, recipes and procedures are always changing, but the pursuit of safety and the quest for the "perfect" load is always the same.
buck460XVR,
Your absolutely right.


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44 mag primer question
I am new to 44 mag reloading. I got data from hodgdon. I was planning on using Hornady xtp 240 gr in place of the 240 gr NOS jhp will this change anything? Also I am planning on using H110 (23.5gr) which is a midrange charge.

I can't find any "remington 2 1/2" primers. Are there any substitute primers? Would a different primer change the pressure? Would the different bullet change the pressure?
Pardon our getting into a seperate discussion in the midst of your questions. If you hang out long enough you will find it happens, and it's not overly intentional by any stretch. Just have to consider that there are many folks who roll their own, and they all have some or even totally different results while doing so. It doesn't make any of us right, but it was wrong to side track your questions.

Now, From your post, and what I have seen and noted in the manuals, the XTP is made with a bit heavier jacket than most other bullets of the same caliber and weight. That said they will usually bump up pressure a bit quicker than others, so you will find as you move along, that some loads will be strictly for them. That said, starting with the lower end charge of H-110 listed on the Hodgdon data, there should be no issue.

As for the primer issue, if you note they list the use of the Rem 2 1/2 for ALL of the listed loads, and not just the 296/H110 loads. So if you stick exactly to the listed data you cannot load any of those unless you use that particular primer. Using another primer isn't going to be an issue, and it is done every day, by thousands of folks. Are you going to get different results switching brands or types, yes you will. But even if you used the exact primer listed you will still get different results in YOUR revolver.

This is why you always start low and work up. Even if you DID use what they reccomend YOUR revolver might have tighter tolerances than what they used. So by starting low and working up you have an idea of what your getting into before you exceed the top end pressures. Myself, years ago, I figured that since the Winchesters were somewhat middle ground between standard and magnums I would use them for everything. And I have for the most part of the past 30'ish years. However, I have also found that using other brands or even types of the same brand (standard vs mag), has resulted in better groups or better performance from the particular loads I was using.

The bottom line is use what you have or can find. Start low and workup. With 296/H110 there isn't a lot of wiggle room, but it is decent powder none the less. When ever you switch one component out for another ALWAYS drop the load back and work back up, and you will find less issues with your loads. If and when you can find some 2400 or AA-9, either of them have a wider load range than 296/H110, and might give you a better avreage for your loads. That's not to say what you have isn't good, as I have burned up many pounds of it in several magnum revolvers, and have plenty of it sitting there waiting to be loaded. But the loads I use are specific, and I don't change them for the calibers I use it in. I found what works and stick with it. My load for 240gr bullets in my 44 is usually 23.5grs period. This is right in the middle of what is and has been noted for years. I have found that the case tension, and the degree of crimp have been more effective in shrinking my groups than either the charge weight or primer I used. So before you start to crimp, look at your loaded round closely. If you can see the profile of the bullet inside the case neck, you have good tension for sure. Use just enough crimp to hold them in place and you will be better off. What I do is load up 6 rounds, shoot the first and check the last for movement. If I see nothing I continue on checking after each successive round until I get to the last. IF I get there and it is still holding fast I consider that I have enough crimp. IF I see so much as .002 creep I will adjust the die down just enough more to actually feel it make good contact with the round. Your not looking to squeeze the brass into one with the bullet, only to roll the lip of the case into the groove. With some loads it may take seating to the top edge of the cannalure so you get a better bite, but with most you can simply catch the bottom edge of the groove and your good.

Again I hope we didn't get too far off into the wrong direction and at least hope that this has helped you out somewhat.
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