Wipe-out usage...

[mxa]

I'd like to hear some comments on how people use Wipe-Out with other products if at all?

I'm finding that if I follow the directions: wet patch of the accelerator; apply the foam; wait 30 min. or so; and then patch it out. Repeat this till your patches come out clean. I'm finding that it seems to get the copper out alright, however I can see that there is still some fouling (carbon/powder?) in the barrel and I require a few strokes of brushing to get all the fouling out. However, I'm a little concerned what other cleaner that I could use with the brush. Also, is anyone running patches of oil through the barrel after wipe-out? I'm just looking for some advice beyond what the company has indicated for cleaning that may improve my cleaning methods with wipe-out.

Thanks.

[hoghunting]

I started using Wipe-Out a few years ago and I won't go back to scrubbing with a brush. I put the rifle in a horizontal vise and spray the foam into the barrel from the muzzle. I leave it overnight as it does not contain ammonia. The next day I patch it out. If the barrel is extremely dirty, I repeat the process, otherwise I'm finished. Wipe-Out instructions state that oil doesn't need to be used for protection. I haven't oiled a barrel after using Wipe-out and the barrels haven't shown any signs of rust.


Welcome to the forum!

[mxa]

For some reason, I'm not getting the carbon or powder fouling out near the breech end of the barrel. This seems to be a difficult area that needs a little brushing with a cleaner but I'm not sure what cleaner is safe to use with Wipeout, if any.

[hoghunting]

I don't have a problem with any fouling with an overnight soaking. After you patch out the Wipe-Out, you can use any solvent that you want. Just don't leave it in the barrel too long if it is ammonia based. And after using other solvents, you need to protect the bore.

[Unclenick]

If you have particular carbon problems, you may want to go a carbon removing cleaner. There are a couple that are designed specifically to break down bonds in caked-on carbon. I often get a ring of carbon built up where the neck portion of a chamber steps down to the freebore that leads into the rifling. It will cause patches to pick up a little carbon even after the bore is clean, even though, if I keep the cases properly trimmed, it poses no threat or problem. You can, however, remove it, which I do from time to time.

The faster of the two cleaners that attack carbon is Slip 2000's Carbon Killer. The slower (overnight soak) but environmentally friendlier is Gunzilla. Gunzilla also leaves a protective and slippery vegetable oil based lubricating layer behind as it dries. After the Wipe Out, run two patches wet with the product of your choice through the bore with an eye-hook rather than a jag, so the patches aren't too tight. You want the bore wet with the stuff. When your soak time is over (maybe 15 minutes to half an hour for the Carbon Killer, and overnight for Gunzilla), if the carbon was bad, dip a nylon brush in the chosen solvent and scrub a little before running patches again. Otherwisd, just run a couple of wet patches through on a tight jag. Carbon Killer should be followed with a couple of dry patches, then a gun oil patch. Gunzilla does not require post oiling.