I think it's a crimp issue but... + a couple other questions.

jclayto · July 15, 2009, 07:49 AM

I am reloading .38 for my 686 revolver. Both times that I have been out with these reloads at some point during the day the revolver binds up. I originally posted over in the revolver forum thinking it was mechanical but after hundreds of successful dry-fires I think it is ammo related. Last time it locked up (cylinder did not want to rotate, hammer would not pull, cylinder would not open)) I was able to rotate I noticed it was getting stuck between cylinders so instead of trying to force it to rotate the normal counter clockwise, I turned it back clock wise and was able to open the cyl and remove rounds. I set them aside , shot some more, same thing happened a little later, fixed it the same way and shot some more.

Do you folks think it could be that I do not have enough crimp? OAL is consistent as I checked the offending rounds against some that worked fine. I have this theory that some of the rounds are not crimping consistently causing the cartridge rim to sit slightly above the cylinder? Is there really a key to crimp when using lead rounds? I take it crimp is pretty subjective so I admit I am not 100% sure what I am looking for crimp wise.

Next question: I've noticed on some of my brass that there is a little "dotted line" around the brass about 1/2 way down the cartridge. On some of them there is multiple dotted lines. I thought this was a problem with my machine (dillon 650, dillon carbide dies) until I ordered some once fired brass the other day and most of it had the same lines. What causes this?

GeauxTide · July 15, 2009, 08:27 AM

I recall that the lines are an external rolled crimp at the base of the factory load; however, the more important issue is your load. The only time I've bound a .357 was either max load or bullets jumping crimp. Crimp heavily.

Bboomer · July 15, 2009, 08:43 AM

Morning,

Sounds like either carbon buildup or your ejector rod/stem is loose. As for crimping I prefer it light to moderate via the Lee FCD.

I shoot almost exclusive 38's and cast wheel weight bullets in the 686 here.

What powder & lube do you use?

Russ5924 · July 15, 2009, 08:53 AM

Need more information

What bullet and powder how many grains an COLA

jclayto · July 15, 2009, 09:39 AM

158grn LSWC from mastercastbullets, 3.5grn bullseye, and I am not home at the moment to remeasure, but I am pretty sure it was 1.48. Winchester small pistol primer.

For the .357 loads I was shooting that day they were 158grn JHP over 14.5grn 2400, winchester SPP. Do not remember the oal but it was just over the min stated next to the load in the manual, and below the max OAL stated in the manual.

I am torn between blaming the gun or the reloads. When it happened on the first time out, it was a brand new pistol so I blamed it metal debris from the factory. I cleaned the gun very well before the second outing, so when it happened that time I started thinking it could be ammo.

I am all ears, what do you think?

FM12 · July 15, 2009, 11:08 AM

The dotted lines are called "cannelures" keeps the bullet from being set back or seated beyond this line. Repeated reloading of these cases can cause separation at this line, but not a real problem.

Use and enjoy them.

LHB1 · July 15, 2009, 11:14 AM

High primers (protruding beyond base of case) can also cause the binding problem you describe in revolvers. Be sure all your primers are seated at or below the base of case.

jclayto · July 15, 2009, 11:41 AM

Thanks LH, I have had that issue before so I was extra careful on primer seating. Thank you for reminding me of that though. It took a while to get the hang of how much pressure I need at the top of my upstroke to properly seat primers on this press.

Good to hear that the cannelures are normal

July 15, 2009, 07:49 AM	#1
jclayto Senior Member Join Date: February 14, 2005 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 600	I think it's a crimp issue but... + a couple other questions. I am reloading .38 for my 686 revolver. Both times that I have been out with these reloads at some point during the day the revolver binds up. I originally posted over in the revolver forum thinking it was mechanical but after hundreds of successful dry-fires I think it is ammo related. Last time it locked up (cylinder did not want to rotate, hammer would not pull, cylinder would not open)) I was able to rotate I noticed it was getting stuck between cylinders so instead of trying to force it to rotate the normal counter clockwise, I turned it back clock wise and was able to open the cyl and remove rounds. I set them aside , shot some more, same thing happened a little later, fixed it the same way and shot some more. Do you folks think it could be that I do not have enough crimp? OAL is consistent as I checked the offending rounds against some that worked fine. I have this theory that some of the rounds are not crimping consistently causing the cartridge rim to sit slightly above the cylinder? Is there really a key to crimp when using lead rounds? I take it crimp is pretty subjective so I admit I am not 100% sure what I am looking for crimp wise. Next question: I've noticed on some of my brass that there is a little "dotted line" around the brass about 1/2 way down the cartridge. On some of them there is multiple dotted lines. I thought this was a problem with my machine (dillon 650, dillon carbide dies) until I ordered some once fired brass the other day and most of it had the same lines. What causes this?

July 15, 2009, 08:43 AM	#3
Bboomer Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2007 Posts: 108	Morning, Sounds like either carbon buildup or your ejector rod/stem is loose. As for crimping I prefer it light to moderate via the Lee FCD. I shoot almost exclusive 38's and cast wheel weight bullets in the 686 here. What powder & lube do you use? __________________ Bboomer

July 15, 2009, 08:53 AM	#4
Russ5924 Senior Member Join Date: February 18, 2005 Posts: 1,874	Need more information What bullet and powder how many grains an COLA __________________ Russ5924

July 15, 2009, 11:14 AM	#7
LHB1 Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,545	High primers (protruding beyond base of case) can also cause the binding problem you describe in revolvers. Be sure all your primers are seated at or below the base of case. __________________ Good shooting and be safe. LB

July 15, 2009, 08:27 AM	#2
GeauxTide Senior Member Join Date: April 20, 2009 Location: Helena, AL Posts: 4,423	I recall that the lines are an external rolled crimp at the base of the factory load; however, the more important issue is your load. The only time I've bound a .357 was either max load or bullets jumping crimp. Crimp heavily.

July 15, 2009, 09:39 AM	#5
jclayto Senior Member Join Date: February 14, 2005 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 600	158grn LSWC from mastercastbullets, 3.5grn bullseye, and I am not home at the moment to remeasure, but I am pretty sure it was 1.48. Winchester small pistol primer. For the .357 loads I was shooting that day they were 158grn JHP over 14.5grn 2400, winchester SPP. Do not remember the oal but it was just over the min stated next to the load in the manual, and below the max OAL stated in the manual. I am torn between blaming the gun or the reloads. When it happened on the first time out, it was a brand new pistol so I blamed it metal debris from the factory. I cleaned the gun very well before the second outing, so when it happened that time I started thinking it could be ammo. I am all ears, what do you think?

July 15, 2009, 11:08 AM	#6
FM12 Senior Member Join Date: February 5, 2007 Location: Monroeville, Alabama Posts: 1,683	The dotted lines are called "cannelures" keeps the bullet from being set back or seated beyond this line. Repeated reloading of these cases can cause separation at this line, but not a real problem. Use and enjoy them.

July 15, 2009, 11:41 AM	#8
jclayto Senior Member Join Date: February 14, 2005 Location: Anderson, SC Posts: 600	Thanks LH, I have had that issue before so I was extra careful on primer seating. Thank you for reminding me of that though. It took a while to get the hang of how much pressure I need at the top of my upstroke to properly seat primers on this press. Good to hear that the cannelures are normal