Reloading a pulled bullet cartridge?

RickCoop · September 1, 2014, 03:41 PM

Messed up on the powder charge in the cartridge of a 9mm. I pulled the bullet and checked, over charged case. Now I have an empty cartridge with a live primer in it. Can this safely be reloaded? If not, how do I safely destroy the primer? Thanks for the help.

Gary L. Griffiths · September 1, 2014, 03:48 PM

Your primed case is the same as the cased you primed before charging them with powder. You may have to run it through the expander die again to easily seat the bullet, but once you've done that, charge it with the correct powder charge and seat your bullet like before.

Pulling the bullet, whether done by a collet die or by an inertial puller won't affect the case or primer.

**Unclenick** · September 1, 2014, 03:48 PM

No reason not to reload it as long as the primer is properly seated below flush with the case head. If you are concerned about the impact puller having knocked it around, consider what it experiences in a magazine under recoil. It can withstand quite a bit of knocking about.

RickCoop · September 1, 2014, 06:22 PM

Great! I'll load it up. Thanks so much for your help.

Sport45 · September 1, 2014, 10:32 PM

I'd size it first to assure neck tension. Either take the decapping pin out of your sizing die or just punch the primer out and re-use it after sizing.

Gadawg88 · September 1, 2014, 11:10 PM

For future reference you can also safely deprime the live primer and re-use it.

Sevens · September 2, 2014, 12:31 PM

I am firmly with the idea that it's definitely best to re-size that case before you attempt to load it again. And I would simply decap that live primer rather than taking the decap rod out of my sizing die.

My argument: you have manipulated that brass with the flare step and the seat/crimp step. You want to make the safest, best ammo you can build and consistency is key, so start over.

If you've never decapped a live primer and it has you even a little bit concerned (I'd say that's a natural instinct!), most of us can tell you that they simply don't go off, but you can take extra precaution by laying a thick towel over the entire press while you do it to contain the blast (which isn't going to happen anyway.) Of course, whenever you're working with live primers in any way, you should be wearing the safety glasses. I absolutely do all of the time.

Nick_C_S · September 2, 2014, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Sevens said: I am firmly with the idea that it's definitely best to re-size that case before you attempt to load it again.

I agree. And I also agree that it's not worth the hassle to remove the decap pin from the die in order to resize without dislodging the primer. There is an outside chance that decapping the live primer will set it off, but it's very rare. Besides, you'll be wearing your safety glass like you always do at the load bench anyway

.

If we were were talking a roll crimped revolver round, I wouldn't bother resizing, btw. But we're talking 9mm, so I believe you should resize in order to get back the proper neck tension.

Sevens · September 2, 2014, 01:23 PM

I'll argue with your removing of the decap pin, and here's my reason:

I simply have not used other brands of carbide handgun sizing dies (in rifle, in pistol flare/seat, yes) but I've done a life time of handloading with Lee carbide pistol dies. If it so happens that (general) you uses them also, you've got a die with a unique and brilliant feature: a virtually unbreakable decap pin.

I say virtually because it's designed with a stress limit, held in place with a collet that squeezes it. When the decap rod encounters more stress than is normal (if you attempt to decap a Berdan case or if you have a piece of media blocking the flash hole), the Lee system is designed to slide up harmlessly out of the way before the decap pin itself gets over-stressed and compromised.

The key to longevity with the Lee decap pin is when you reset the decap rod after just such an instance. Or in this case, when you've willfully removed it to avoid decapping your one live primer.

If you don't torque that top nut down close to where the factory set it (if you over-torque) then you defeat the system. Too much torque makes that decap rod unmovable and it won't slide up harmlessly when over-stressed. It is now set up for failure.

If you are using a size die with a decap pin that is quickly & easily twisted out & removed, then I also support the idea of not decapping that piece. If you use a Lee sizing die, it simply is not worth the two-way effort to both remove and then get it back where it needs to be and with the proper torque to prevent failure.

It's not a big deal to decap a live primer.

T. O'Heir · September 2, 2014, 01:51 PM

Absolutely. Take out the decapping pin, resize and carry on.
"...Lee carbide pistol dies..." Lee kit is low end, entry level, stuff. If you need a torque wrench it's even worse.

Sevens · September 2, 2014, 02:06 PM

^Nonsense, proven over and over and over and over and over again.

If you can't make Lee carbide pistol dies work, and work well, it's absolutely a you problem.

September 1, 2014, 03:41 PM	#1
RickCoop Member Join Date: August 17, 2013 Posts: 45	Reloading a pulled bullet cartridge? Messed up on the powder charge in the cartridge of a 9mm. I pulled the bullet and checked, over charged case. Now I have an empty cartridge with a live primer in it. Can this safely be reloaded? If not, how do I safely destroy the primer? Thanks for the help.

September 1, 2014, 03:48 PM	#2
Gary L. Griffiths Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2000 Location: AZ, WA Posts: 1,466	Your primed case is the same as the cased you primed before charging them with powder. You may have to run it through the expander die again to easily seat the bullet, but once you've done that, charge it with the correct powder charge and seat your bullet like before. Pulling the bullet, whether done by a collet die or by an inertial puller won't affect the case or primer. __________________ Violence is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and valorous feeling which believes that nothing is worth violence is much worse. Those who have nothing for which they are willing to fight; nothing they care about more than their own craven apathy; are miserable creatures who have no chance of being free, unless made and kept so by the valor of those better than themselves. Gary L. Griffiths (Paraphrasing John Stuart Mill)

September 1, 2014, 03:48 PM	#3
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,061	No reason not to reload it as long as the primer is properly seated below flush with the case head. If you are concerned about the impact puller having knocked it around, consider what it experiences in a magazine under recoil. It can withstand quite a bit of knocking about. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle Last edited by Unclenick; September 1, 2014 at 04:25 PM.

September 1, 2014, 10:32 PM	#5
Sport45 Senior Member Join Date: May 25, 1999 Location: Too close to Houston Posts: 4,196	I'd size it first to assure neck tension. Either take the decapping pin out of your sizing die or just punch the primer out and re-use it after sizing. __________________ Proud member of the NRA and Texas State Rifle Association. Registered and active voter.

September 2, 2014, 12:31 PM	#7
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	I am firmly with the idea that it's definitely best to re-size that case before you attempt to load it again. And I would simply decap that live primer rather than taking the decap rod out of my sizing die. My argument: you have manipulated that brass with the flare step and the seat/crimp step. You want to make the safest, best ammo you can build and consistency is key, so start over. If you've never decapped a live primer and it has you even a little bit concerned (I'd say that's a natural instinct!), most of us can tell you that they simply don't go off, but you can take extra precaution by laying a thick towel over the entire press while you do it to contain the blast (which isn't going to happen anyway.) Of course, whenever you're working with live primers in any way, you should be wearing the safety glasses. I absolutely do all of the time. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

September 1, 2014, 06:22 PM	#4
RickCoop Member Join Date: August 17, 2013 Posts: 45	Great! I'll load it up. Thanks so much for your help.

September 1, 2014, 11:10 PM	#6
Gadawg88 Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2013 Location: Georgia Posts: 241	For future reference you can also safely deprime the live primer and re-use it.

September 2, 2014, 01:23 PM	#9
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	I'll argue with your removing of the decap pin, and here's my reason: I simply have not used other brands of carbide handgun sizing dies (in rifle, in pistol flare/seat, yes) but I've done a life time of handloading with Lee carbide pistol dies. If it so happens that (general) you uses them also, you've got a die with a unique and brilliant feature: a virtually unbreakable decap pin. I say virtually because it's designed with a stress limit, held in place with a collet that squeezes it. When the decap rod encounters more stress than is normal (if you attempt to decap a Berdan case or if you have a piece of media blocking the flash hole), the Lee system is designed to slide up harmlessly out of the way before the decap pin itself gets over-stressed and compromised. The key to longevity with the Lee decap pin is when you reset the decap rod after just such an instance. Or in this case, when you've willfully removed it to avoid decapping your one live primer. If you don't torque that top nut down close to where the factory set it (if you over-torque) then you defeat the system. Too much torque makes that decap rod unmovable and it won't slide up harmlessly when over-stressed. It is now set up for failure. If you are using a size die with a decap pin that is quickly & easily twisted out & removed, then I also support the idea of not decapping that piece. If you use a Lee sizing die, it simply is not worth the two-way effort to both remove and then get it back where it needs to be and with the proper torque to prevent failure. It's not a big deal to decap a live primer. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

September 2, 2014, 01:51 PM	#10
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Absolutely. Take out the decapping pin, resize and carry on. "...Lee carbide pistol dies..." Lee kit is low end, entry level, stuff. If you need a torque wrench it's even worse. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

September 2, 2014, 02:06 PM	#11
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	^Nonsense, proven over and over and over and over and over again. If you can't make Lee carbide pistol dies work, and work well, it's absolutely a you problem. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.