I want to reload.

[Misssissippi Dave]

I have gone through several HF calipers. They don't seem to last very long even replacing the battery. A mechanical dial type will last much longer and never needs a battery. It does take a little more time and effort to learn to use them correctly. You may want to get both types. One for ease of use for a while and one to you will be able to use for a long time.

You can get a HF tumbler and some people have had very good luck with them. The one you linked to is reputed to be a good one by most people. I have a Dillon. It isn't cheap but it also works quite well. I suggest getting one to match the number of cases you plan to clean at a time. There is nothing wrong with doing several batches either. I do sort my brass by caliber when tumbling. I hate trying to pull 9 mm cases out of .40 brass and .40 brass out of .45 cases. It is a real pain to do that.

I use corncob media from Grainger. I get it in 40 pound bags. I suggest using the 20/40. It is very fine and doesn't get stuck in the cases. Any that might be in the primer hole gets pushed out easily when you de-prime.

[dmazur]

Here's a fairly good analog caliper for around $40 -

Frankford Arsenal Stainless Caliper

[monaco]

Originally Posted by kostyanj

As far as the tumbler goes, Harbor freight sells one for almost 1/4 of that price.

The one I linked also had a media sifter with it... Someone recommended it was a must have.

[monaco]

From what I have read, cheap tumblers last about 1-3 years on average, while top name brands such as Dillon can last up to 5+ years.

I was considering buying a Hornady because they claim to offer a lifetime warranty on all reloading equipment: http://www.hornady.com/support/faqs/warranty-info

[Misssissippi Dave]

I believe Dillon offers a 1 year warranty on their tumbler and a 50/50 after that. I could be wrong there. The motor seems to be the weak point on any tumbler. A media separator is a nice thing to have. I once saw a picture of one some person built. It was make of two colanders used for pasta with a hinge on the handles of one side. He dumped the media and cases into it and flipped it over a few times to remove the media. If my memory is correct it they came from some dollar store. So you don't have to spend a lot of money if it isn't available. The one Dillon sells is expensive but I think it works well. The one you linked to seems to be of a similar design. As long as the separator you use will hold the contents of the tumbler all should be good.

[SVTCobra306]

edit.. posted in the wrong place

[Nathan]

My Frankford Arsenal tumbler is 11 years old. I hope that helps. I run it only about 2 - 8 hours a month.

For calipers, I would stick with Mitutoyo, Starrett, Fowler, etc. cheap Chinese calipers are not a good fit for reloading, IMHO. To me, this is like buying the cheapest scale.. NO GO!

[monaco]

Originally Posted by Nathan

My Frankford Arsenal tumbler is 11 years old. I hope that helps. I run it only about 2 - 8 hours a month.

Since time is money, I've decided to spend a little more on a case tumbler that's faster. Any recommendations?

[Lost Sheep]

Originally Posted by monaco

Since time is money, I've decided to spend a little more on a case tumbler that's faster. Any recommendations?

Frankly, since tumblers do most of their work unattended, I would choose one the runs slowly. It will probably be quieter and might last longer. Start it at night and turn it off in the morning.

Unless you need to have massive throughput and be running 24/7 that would be the way I would go.

As it is, I just picked (actually had picked for me as a birthday present) a standard run-of-the-mill vibratory tumbler which has been working just fine for a couple of years. The lapidary style (like used for polishing rocks) would probably last longer and would certainly be quieter.

I loaded for 30 years without any kind of brass cleaner/polisher, simply wiping my brass clean with a soft cloth. My brass is prettier now, but shoots just the same.

Lost Sheep

[monaco]

OK, I've got my tumbler with a lifetime warranty. $71 shipped.

and I also bought this Berry's rotary case sifter from Eabco. I've looked everywhere and I don't think you can beat $38.59, shipped.

I gave Dillon $27 for the missing parts on the Suare Deal, so I'm now up to a grand total of 486.59.

I almost ready to go. Where do you guys buy your primers and powder?

[Flea21]

Get a reloading manual and read, learn and ask questions beforehand!

[Barbicatter]

Awesome, Square Deals are nice little setups. Did you get any of the extras little Strong Mount, Bullet Tray. For your caliber changes I would highly recommend getting a quickchange kit (powered measurer, toolhead) or the very least a toolhead for each caliber.

Hmm... Primers and Powder. Online it's hit or miss. Since you are loading for pistol you'll have better luck, than us folks looking for popular rifle powders.
Widners, MidsouthShootersSupply, Grafs, Cabelas etc... Need to look daily.
My best resource has been Local shops.

I would study your load data for the various calibers and bullets you want to load, Then make a greats hits list of the powders you might like to load and start your search from there.

[snuffy]

I almost ready to go. Where do you guys buy your primers and powder?

You forgot bullets!

Now you have this awesome loader, and no components! You'll find the shortage extends to components for loading your own. Why do you think loaded ammo is in short supply? The big ammo companies use the same stuff for loading their own. They will use the primers and bullets to load their own ammo before making them available for us reloaders.

I've never seen a SDB in person. Only heard they're a good little loader. When I decided to go progressive, I went with the Dillon XL 650. I got it to start with without the case feeder. That lasted all of 2 weeks, I ordered the case feeder. I liken it to driving a Porsche with half the spark plug wires disconnected.

[Misssissippi Dave]

It depends on which caliber you plan to start loading first. I like using WST powder for .45 and 9 mm. I will probably also use it for .40 once I can find some bullets. Powder Valley does have WST in stock as of last night. When I buy powder from them only I normally get at least 16 pounds or more to help off set the HAZ-MAT fees. Lately the best source for primers has been the local gun shop. The prices are high but at least they have some. I am fortunate in having enough primers on hand prior to the most recent shortage. I keep looking at Montana Gold Bullet's site to see when they will have what I'm needing. When you look daily you will find them sooner or later. Jacketed bullets just seem easier to load properly than lead or plated bullets to me.

[monaco]

I'm starting with .45ACP. Can someone link me to a good powder to buy?

[Lost Sheep]

Originally Posted by monaco

I'm starting with .45ACP. Can someone link me to a good powder to buy?

The post immediately before yours mentioned a powder that is VERY often mentioned as ideal for the 45 ACP.

Do you have a loading manual? There are powders listed there. Pick one that gives a mid-range velocity for the bullet you intend to use. (for example, if the full range of velocities goes from 775 fps to 980 fps, pick the powders that run around 850 fps.) Avoiding the extremes of any performance envelope (low or high) is where I always suggest a novice to begin.

Lost Sheep

[monaco]

Powder Valley has 8lbs for 152.00 shipped, is that a good price?

They're saying the wait is 30 days Anyone know of a source that's in stock? Even 1lb will get me started.

My local gun store has Clays for 22.95/lb and International 21.95/lb. He says they're shotgun powder but will work for .45 ACP. However, he's also known as the doofus of gun knowledge here in New Orleans, regularly giving people misinformation.

[super6]

My jug of UNIVERSAL clays has loading data on the label for 45 a.c.p, Theres no min/max The f.p.s. is listed @ 993. The jug is also listed as handgun-shotgun powder. Correct me if I'm wrong, I think I remember seeing a jug of just plain clays.

[Misssissippi Dave]

Check the local gun shops. You might be able to find some powder there. You can use several different powders. I just find WST works well in .45. I have used AA5. It depends on the weight of the bullet and if it is lead, plated or jacketed as to the powders you might want to start with. Pistol Powder, W231/HP-38, HA-6, WSF and even AA7 are some of the ones you could use. I prefer powders that have a good spread between the minimum and maximum load data. I also like ball or spearical powders. They measure better than any type of flake or stick powder do for me.

I like faster powders with lighter bullets and medium to slow powders with heavy bullets. The fast powders normally work best between low charges to a little above the mid-range in many cases. The medium and slow powders often don't work well at the bottom end but do work better between low mid-range to the upper end of the data.

Double check any data you may use before you start loading. Only load 5 to 10 of a given charge for testing rather than loading up a bunch that may not work for you.

[monaco]

I found 1lb at a local shop to get me started. Anyhow, is that $152 a good price?

[Misssissippi Dave]

The PV price is good but it becomes better when you are buying larger quantities. Prior to the lastest shortage of everything gun related, I would buy 10 to 15k of primers along with 8 pounds or more of powder to off set the shipping/HAS-MAT fees. When I have found WST at a LGS the price has been around 25 to $40 per pound. When you do the math you can see the savings. Which bullet do you have to load?

[monaco]

Which bullet do you have to load?

That was going to be my next question. What's recommended for range ammo? If it makes a difference, I shoot a Colt 1911.

[Misssissippi Dave]

I prefer shooting jacketed bullets. They don't cause leading problems and getting the crimp right is much easier to do. Next on my list is plated bullets. You can get some nice loads with lead. You really need to slug the barrel to find just which size you should be using when loading lead. That alone will reduce leading problems a lot.

I have Montana Gold, Precision Delta and some Hornady XTP bullets. The MG bullets are 185 grain JHP and 230 grain FMJ. The PD are 185 JHP and the XTP are 230 grain. It currently is a matter of what you can get now. I check Montana Gold's website just about daily to see when they will have what I need. When it shows up in case quantities I place an order. I do have an order in for PD bullets but they have a wait time lately of around 18 weeks for delivery. The XTP bullets I got at the LGS. I picked some up just because I wanted to see how they work for me. I have heard lots of good things about them. MG and PD bullets are both designed for accuracy and not self defense/hunting. I'm sure they could be use for such but there are better options available.

http://precisiondelta.com/product.php?indx=5

http://montanagoldbullet.com/

[monaco]

Primers.. Does brand make a difference or are they all pretty much the same?

I'm having a hard time finding bullets and primers online.

[Misssissippi Dave]

The brand of primer does make a difference. Some are harder than others. When shooting from a pistol with reduced hammer springs you could have light strike problems with the harder primers. Federal seem to be the softest and Winchester are slightly harder from what I have found so far. CCI tend to be rather hard.

Slight variations will take place from brand to brand as well as from lot to lot. For plinking and general range use I will load with any primer I have available so long as it is switching standard pistol primer for another standard pistol primer. Switching to a magnum primer can be done but you have to reduce the power and work the load up again. If you have been using a max or near max load with a standard primer and switch to a a magnum primer you probably will start having problems before you reach a max load. The presure is going to increase with a magnum primer over a standard primer in just about all cases. Few powders used for pistol loading really need a magnum primer. H110/W296 and maybe 2400 are some of the ones I can think of right now. The majority of pistol loads can be loaded with standard primers. There are both large and small pistol primer brass used with .45 acp ammo. I use the same load with either case. The .45 is a very forgiving round to load for. My .45 brass is only sorted by the primer size and not head stamp.

I do go through a lot of ammo per year. I don't compete so I'm not looking to find the magic load that allows me to shoot every round through the same hole at any distance. I just load for ammo that has as good accuracy or maybe even better than I can get for cheap factory ammo.