February 3, 2011, 11:52 PM | #1 |
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CLEANER(S):
Fellow Firearms Friends, Fanatics, Followers, Folks, and aFicionados:
Not sure which sub-forum would be any better suited for this question, so here we go...... Birchwood Casey "Gun Scrubber" (spray can) - is this stuff a "good" general/all-purpose cleaner for ALL firearms, please? Any/all opinions, etc. are welcome! Thanks in advance, Glenn... Last edited by Ambidextrous; February 4, 2011 at 02:05 AM. |
February 4, 2011, 12:55 AM | #2 |
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I haven't used it myself...but I would hesitate using a spray solvent due to the damage it can do to a wood stocks finish if oversprayed. For de-greasing my bullet moulds, I use brake cleaner..if B.C.G.S. comes out as cold as the B.C., I would be concerened about metal parts deep inside "frosting" and then sweating..would have to be careful to use good rust prevent.
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February 4, 2011, 02:05 AM | #3 |
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Gun Scrubber is basically non-chlorinated brake cleaner (degreaser). It will remove all lubricants & protectants and consequently any dirt and debris along with them. It is supposed to be relatively safe for polymers & wood finishes, but personally I wouldn't use it on either. As a cleaner by itself, it's not so good and I don't believe it is intended to be one. It is however good for flushing out fouling after you have used a proper cleaner (ie. Bore Scrubber), afterwhich you will always want to follow up and re-apply clean lubricant and/or protectant.
I don't know what you're using it for, but I would highly recommend trying isopropyl alcohol for degreasing & flushing purposes. The 91% is good, but the 99% is better. It's non-toxic as opposed to brake cleaners (or BC's GS), and when used in a spray bottle along with a tooth brush, just as effective for gun applications and a lot cheaper too. With the alcohol, you won't have to worry about it damaging polymers and should be mild enough not to damage most wood finishes. Last edited by Incognito; February 4, 2011 at 02:16 AM. |
February 4, 2011, 04:18 AM | #4 |
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Ballistol is non-toxic so no gloves needed. It is good for metal, wood, plastic, leather. The original "CLP" - The more I use it the more I like it.
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February 4, 2011, 08:01 AM | #5 | |
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February 4, 2011, 08:47 AM | #6 |
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Carb cleaner work great too. Just get the house brand at the auto parts store.
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February 4, 2011, 09:34 AM | #7 | |
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1. Its fumes are REALLY toxic so you have to take it outside to use it. 2. It is extremely flamable, so you need to let it dry off before taking it back inside if there is any possibility of the gun comming into contact with a heat source or spark. |
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February 4, 2011, 09:42 AM | #8 | |
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I buy and use the "synthetic safe" formula and it works great for what it is.
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February 4, 2011, 11:01 AM | #9 |
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ALL you need is a bottle of CLP, an M16 brush and a rag. Forget about aerosal products. You waste half of the product and as stated it goes where you don't want/need it to go. Forget about carb cleaner, it is not designed to dissolve powder residue. The fumes are nasty. If you gun is really dirty, tear it down and mop it all over with CLP, let it soak for a while and then clean it. Save youir pennies and buy a small compressor and blow most of the gunk out. Now for the bore, you may need something that will dissolve copper fouling. Buy some copper solvent. Let it soak for 20 minutes or so. No more. Repeat until the bore is clean. Relube everything.
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February 4, 2011, 07:19 PM | #10 | |
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February 6, 2011, 02:19 AM | #11 |
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Thank you all...I also have these products...they're Good quality - correct5?
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