November 29, 2008, 03:22 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: September 30, 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 750
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Recoil Pad Repair
The screws for the recoil pad on my Remington SP-10 are stripped out. They no longer have any wood to bite into. So I was thinking to glue in wood dowels to fill in the holes and then re-drill the holes again.
My main reason for posting this is, this is the second gun where the recoil pad screws stripped out on me. Is this a problem that most guns have when you try to remove the pads? I think the factory is drilling the holes in the wood a little too big. What are your experiences with the pads on your guns?
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November 29, 2008, 07:52 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
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This is the usual repair and woodworker's supply even make a taper tool and provides the plugs. The plugs are tapered like a pencil point. I have only seen this problem on older guns and seems to be mostly what they call dry rot in wood. However, I have seen some Remingtons that have a great stock finish but raw wood under the butt plate. I sometimes coat these butt ends with epoxy or a good spar varnish. Take care to mark and drill the new holes as your butt plate won't be veryy forgiving. I know some folks to put beeswax on the threads of the mounting screws and other put epoxy, I guess in part to seal this area as well. I use beeswax. Understand that I am not a gun smith but a tinkerer. I do build M/L,s and rework stocks. Good luck..
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November 29, 2008, 08:35 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: June 20, 2007
Location: Rainbow City, Alabama
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If you don't feel like drilling out and doweling, you can try the toothpick trick. Get a toothpick and cut the tips off about 1/2 inch from each end. Dip the pointy ends in wood glue and stick them into the screw holes (2 to the hole. Now, put a little wax on the screw and screw them into the holes almost as deep as they would go with the pad on. After letting it dry for about 2 days, gently remove the screws and try to screw on the recoil pad.
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