Gun oil on wood grips

Greguw · October 5, 2007, 03:05 PM

Hey guys I took a few really nice trades on a gun I had one was a New in the box 686-3 in 4inch barrel , I like older S&W 3 series about as high .
This gun is really a clean piece and has the original wood grips ...I will shoot it ...I shoot everything I own ...You only live once !
No cabinet queens here !
Anyone notice any long term problem wiping over wood grips with gun oil .

Thanks

greg

HDTVSELLER · October 5, 2007, 05:22 PM

i havent had a prob with it on my iver johnson shotgun over the years. but it had a sealer on it so that might have somthing to do with it.and i have used the rem oil..

clayking · October 5, 2007, 05:32 PM

As long as the grip is sealed, it would be ok. Oil would be like water if allowed into the wood, thereby leading to rot. Why not wax it instead?.................ck

KevininPa · October 5, 2007, 05:46 PM

........Hoppes or FP-10, I believe that using it on the wood is encouraged. I've been using Hoppes on wood for years and it only made the wood better. Recently switched to FP-10 so I need to double check their instructions. BTW, I have a 686-3, great revolver. Really smooth action.

Kevin in Pa

Avenger11 · October 5, 2007, 06:41 PM

Do not use gun oil on a gunstock. It will build up over time and darken the wood. Instead, use a good furniture polish like Olde English, and sparingly.

Dfariswheel · October 5, 2007, 08:57 PM

Never use petroleum oils on wood. It softens and rots the wood, and causes it to turn dark.
The old black military stocks are just wood that's been soaked with gun oil and cosmoline over the years.

Some appropriate wood "oils" are boiled linseed oil, tung oil, and the various oil finishes.
Applying gun oils or other lubricants on wood will ruin it.

s4s4u · October 5, 2007, 09:09 PM

Good ole #9 on everything. The grips 'should' have a finish on them, polyurethane or lacquer or whatever. I have finished my cleaning episodes with a once over of Hoppe's #9 forever, going on 4 decades now. Can't hurt a thing. FWYMTIWON, Rod.

Bill DeShivs · October 5, 2007, 09:22 PM

Hoppes #9 is a bore cleaner, not particularly a rust preventative. I wouldn't suggest it's use on wood. There is no reason to use oil or solvents on wood.

Greguw · October 5, 2007, 10:16 PM

Thanks for all the good advice , I will proibly go with the furniture type polish on the wood grips , seems like only my older smiths have the fine wood finishes the rest in my collections are rubber or rubber with incerts .
Thanks again guys .

greg

Hal · October 6, 2007, 05:08 AM

Oil supposedly causes the wood to expand and crack...
(according to a number of well respected authorities)
I don't know 100% if that's true or not, but why chance it if you don't have to?

DMZX · October 6, 2007, 07:15 AM

i have used linseed oil on gun stocks and grips of older guns with good success. These were guns that did not have a lacquer finish.

I have an old Marlin Model 81 that dates back to 1939. The original finish was long gone when I got it 30 years ago so I have used linseed oil on it since. The stock now has a nice dark patina which seems to compliment the barrel which has a nice blue/brown patina. I still shoot that rifle quite often as it is still very accurate and it is no collector piece hanging on a rack in my outside shop.

I have also had luck with Johnson's paste wax or (as one poster already mentioned) Olde English furniture wax.

Tom2 · October 6, 2007, 07:28 AM

If they are shiny looking grips coated with varnish, laquer or urethane finishes, there is no need to put anything on them. Any oil that penetrates will probably just work under the finish if there are cracks. Solvents might eventually attack the finish, so I would not put Hoppes on it. I would suggest cleaning them if they get dingy is all. Wipe off any excess oil from the gun. So essentially if they are coated with polyurethane or the like, then the exterior of the grips is essentially "plastic" and might get dingy and dirty. Just clean and they should look great unless the finish is worn away. Maybe carefully clean with mild soap and an old toothbrush, if there is checkering to get the crud out and wipe and dry well.

22-rimfire · October 6, 2007, 08:15 AM

When I wipe down a handgun, I often do a quick wipe of the grips with the same oil I'm using on the gun when I'm doing the backstrap or other metal near the grips. I have not observed any problems over the years, but don't over do it. The use of other products is probably adviseable in the long term as mentioned above. Guess this is one of those, DO as I say NOT as I do.

Kreyzhorse · October 6, 2007, 08:28 AM

Quote:

When I wipe down a handgun, I often do a quick wipe of the grips with the same oil I'm using on the gun when I'm doing the backstrap or other metal near the grips. I have not observed any problems over the years, but don't over do it. The use of other products is probably adviseable in the long term as mentioned above. Guess this is one of those, DO as I say NOT as I do.

Amen - I always wipe the grips down with Hoppes and haven't see any changes or issues. With that said, every thing in moderation and I do also wax my stock and grips regularly.

Prince55 · October 7, 2007, 01:36 AM

Gun oil isn't good for wood. Ask anyone who works with custom gun stocks.
Just look at many older rifles and shotguns that are darkened and that have
been oil soaked for years. Petroleum based oils seep into the pores of wood
and then cause cracks especially on guns of heavier recoil.
I once bought a Winchester model 21 double barrel shotgun from a man
who had made many muzzle loading rifles and custom guns. He had the
21 Winchester in the corner standing on it's barrels. He said that was to keep
any oils from draining into the stock. He advised not using gun oils on wood.
The 21 Winchester was very old and a 4 digit serial number and the wood
was exc. plus. All he ever used was furniture waxes for stocks.

dbsoundguy · October 7, 2007, 07:51 AM

I agree with TOM2. Being in the paint industry, i have learned about the way wood finishes work and also what not to use on wood (Alot of Mistakes) The pic you have looks like they are finished. The older hard finishes are most likely Varnish or PolyUreathane. Some new finishes might be two part conversion Varishes or Laquers. The new finishes are harder and work faster in production. Lemon oils work ok, but a downfall is they have silicone and waxes. (If any one has ever tried to refinish a old stock or some type of furinture, sometimes you will see craters "fish eyes" when you put on a finish, that is from silicone. It seeps deep into the wood, that stuff has ruined alot of nice projects people have tried to do) This info might be useful for someone. OK, back to your post: the biggest threat to your grips is oil from your hands and moisture. Wipe them down really good when you are done shooting,once in awhile clean them with mild soap and water. You can put on some oil but only a little,too much just clogs the pores of the wood,use the oil... maybe twice a year. Hope this helped See ya

Tom2 · October 7, 2007, 08:20 AM

Yea, the finish on the modern Smith grips is some kind of poly. So it will keep it's shine if you keep it clean. Oil on them might just make them slippery or something. Some custom and old handgun grips are bare wood with an oil type finish, like linseed oil. Any oil, even linseed will darken bare wood. If alot of gun oils seep in they will eventually turn real dark, and rot. Lot of USGI military stocks you see are black inside the cutouts from gun oil seeping in. I have an M1 carbine stock that is beautiful walnut outside, but oil soaking into the gunstock rotted out all the wood under the recoil plate. So if it is ever to be used again, I would have to dig out all that rotted wood and and fill with epoxy or something, but the epoxy will not stick to the oil impregnated wood. Then again it would be alot cheaper to replace the wood stocks on a revolver than a rifle stock if oil ruins them.

RDak · October 8, 2007, 06:13 AM

FWIW, I never put gun oil purposely on wood. I wipe it off immediately if some gets on the wood. Same for solvents.

allen820 · October 9, 2007, 07:31 AM

Wiping a stock or grip with an oilly rag, i.e. a rag which is just oilly (not oil soaked and wet!) should not hurt a thing. However, for cleaning and shining modern poly-coated stocks, spray a little Pledge on a clean cloth and wipe down the wood. Gets rid of dirt and finger prints (and oil from the above oilly rag treatment . . .) and really brings out the shine.

Allen

TexasFats · October 9, 2007, 08:12 PM

The OP mentioned that the grips were on older S&W's. That means that they may well have had either a varnish or a linseed oil finish originally. In either case, stuff like Hoppe's or anything else that is petroleum based would be a bad idea. Petroleum based oils are much different than any of the oils used for finishes. New guns, with polyurethane or similar synthetic finishes may be a different matter, however. At least, that is my$0.02 worth.

October 5, 2007, 03:05 PM	#1
Greguw Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 2006 Location: Bucks County , Pa Posts: 519	Gun oil on wood grips Hey guys I took a few really nice trades on a gun I had one was a New in the box 686-3 in 4inch barrel , I like older S&W 3 series about as high . This gun is really a clean piece and has the original wood grips ...I will shoot it ...I shoot everything I own ...You only live once ! No cabinet queens here ! Anyone notice any long term problem wiping over wood grips with gun oil . Thanks greg Last edited by Greguw; January 18, 2013 at 06:51 AM.

October 5, 2007, 05:22 PM	#2
HDTVSELLER Senior Member Join Date: September 16, 2007 Posts: 248	i havent had a prob with it on my iver johnson shotgun over the years. but it had a sealer on it so that might have somthing to do with it.and i have used the rem oil.. __________________ What would the world be like without guns!!!!

October 5, 2007, 05:32 PM	#3
clayking Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2006 Location: Florida Posts: 796	As long as the grip is sealed, it would be ok. Oil would be like water if allowed into the wood, thereby leading to rot. Why not wax it instead?.................ck __________________ Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

October 5, 2007, 05:46 PM	#4
KevininPa Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2007 Posts: 253	If you use........ ........Hoppes or FP-10, I believe that using it on the wood is encouraged. I've been using Hoppes on wood for years and it only made the wood better. Recently switched to FP-10 so I need to double check their instructions. BTW, I have a 686-3, great revolver. Really smooth action. Kevin in Pa

October 5, 2007, 09:22 PM	#8
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,981	Hoppes #9 is a bore cleaner, not particularly a rust preventative. I wouldn't suggest it's use on wood. There is no reason to use oil or solvents on wood. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

October 5, 2007, 06:41 PM	#5
Avenger11 Senior Member Join Date: August 15, 2007 Posts: 311	Do not use gun oil on a gunstock. It will build up over time and darken the wood. Instead, use a good furniture polish like Olde English, and sparingly.

October 5, 2007, 08:57 PM	#6
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Never use petroleum oils on wood. It softens and rots the wood, and causes it to turn dark. The old black military stocks are just wood that's been soaked with gun oil and cosmoline over the years. Some appropriate wood "oils" are boiled linseed oil, tung oil, and the various oil finishes. Applying gun oils or other lubricants on wood will ruin it.

October 5, 2007, 09:09 PM	#7
s4s4u Senior Member Join Date: September 22, 2007 Location: MN Posts: 365	Good ole #9 on everything. The grips 'should' have a finish on them, polyurethane or lacquer or whatever. I have finished my cleaning episodes with a once over of Hoppe's #9 forever, going on 4 decades now. Can't hurt a thing. FWYMTIWON, Rod.

October 5, 2007, 10:16 PM	#9
Greguw Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 2006 Location: Bucks County , Pa Posts: 519	Thanks for all the good advice , I will proibly go with the furniture type polish on the wood grips , seems like only my older smiths have the fine wood finishes the rest in my collections are rubber or rubber with incerts . Thanks again guys . greg

October 6, 2007, 05:08 AM	#10
Hal Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 1998 Location: Ohio USA Posts: 8,563	Oil supposedly causes the wood to expand and crack... (according to a number of well respected authorities) I don't know 100% if that's true or not, but why chance it if you don't have to?

October 6, 2007, 07:15 AM	#11
DMZX Senior Member Join Date: June 6, 2007 Location: E. Oregon Posts: 563	i have used linseed oil on gun stocks and grips of older guns with good success. These were guns that did not have a lacquer finish. I have an old Marlin Model 81 that dates back to 1939. The original finish was long gone when I got it 30 years ago so I have used linseed oil on it since. The stock now has a nice dark patina which seems to compliment the barrel which has a nice blue/brown patina. I still shoot that rifle quite often as it is still very accurate and it is no collector piece hanging on a rack in my outside shop. I have also had luck with Johnson's paste wax or (as one poster already mentioned) Olde English furniture wax.

October 6, 2007, 07:28 AM	#12
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	If they are shiny looking grips coated with varnish, laquer or urethane finishes, there is no need to put anything on them. Any oil that penetrates will probably just work under the finish if there are cracks. Solvents might eventually attack the finish, so I would not put Hoppes on it. I would suggest cleaning them if they get dingy is all. Wipe off any excess oil from the gun. So essentially if they are coated with polyurethane or the like, then the exterior of the grips is essentially "plastic" and might get dingy and dirty. Just clean and they should look great unless the finish is worn away. Maybe carefully clean with mild soap and an old toothbrush, if there is checkering to get the crud out and wipe and dry well.

October 6, 2007, 08:15 AM	#13
22-rimfire Senior Member Join Date: February 19, 2005 Location: Tennessee Posts: 5,323	When I wipe down a handgun, I often do a quick wipe of the grips with the same oil I'm using on the gun when I'm doing the backstrap or other metal near the grips. I have not observed any problems over the years, but don't over do it. The use of other products is probably adviseable in the long term as mentioned above. Guess this is one of those, DO as I say NOT as I do.

October 7, 2007, 01:36 AM	#15
Prince55 Senior Member Join Date: June 22, 2007 Posts: 472	Gun oil / wood--- Gun oil isn't good for wood. Ask anyone who works with custom gun stocks. Just look at many older rifles and shotguns that are darkened and that have been oil soaked for years. Petroleum based oils seep into the pores of wood and then cause cracks especially on guns of heavier recoil. I once bought a Winchester model 21 double barrel shotgun from a man who had made many muzzle loading rifles and custom guns. He had the 21 Winchester in the corner standing on it's barrels. He said that was to keep any oils from draining into the stock. He advised not using gun oils on wood. The 21 Winchester was very old and a 4 digit serial number and the wood was exc. plus. All he ever used was furniture waxes for stocks.

October 7, 2007, 07:51 AM	#16
dbsoundguy Senior Member Join Date: October 2, 2007 Location: Arizona Posts: 170	I agree with TOM2. Being in the paint industry, i have learned about the way wood finishes work and also what not to use on wood (Alot of Mistakes) The pic you have looks like they are finished. The older hard finishes are most likely Varnish or PolyUreathane. Some new finishes might be two part conversion Varishes or Laquers. The new finishes are harder and work faster in production. Lemon oils work ok, but a downfall is they have silicone and waxes. (If any one has ever tried to refinish a old stock or some type of furinture, sometimes you will see craters "fish eyes" when you put on a finish, that is from silicone. It seeps deep into the wood, that stuff has ruined alot of nice projects people have tried to do) This info might be useful for someone. OK, back to your post: the biggest threat to your grips is oil from your hands and moisture. Wipe them down really good when you are done shooting,once in awhile clean them with mild soap and water. You can put on some oil but only a little,too much just clogs the pores of the wood,use the oil... maybe twice a year. Hope this helped See ya Last edited by dbsoundguy; October 8, 2007 at 07:20 AM.

October 7, 2007, 08:20 AM	#17
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	Yea, the finish on the modern Smith grips is some kind of poly. So it will keep it's shine if you keep it clean. Oil on them might just make them slippery or something. Some custom and old handgun grips are bare wood with an oil type finish, like linseed oil. Any oil, even linseed will darken bare wood. If alot of gun oils seep in they will eventually turn real dark, and rot. Lot of USGI military stocks you see are black inside the cutouts from gun oil seeping in. I have an M1 carbine stock that is beautiful walnut outside, but oil soaking into the gunstock rotted out all the wood under the recoil plate. So if it is ever to be used again, I would have to dig out all that rotted wood and and fill with epoxy or something, but the epoxy will not stick to the oil impregnated wood. Then again it would be alot cheaper to replace the wood stocks on a revolver than a rifle stock if oil ruins them.

October 8, 2007, 06:13 AM	#18
RDak Senior Member Join Date: October 17, 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 734	FWIW, I never put gun oil purposely on wood. I wipe it off immediately if some gets on the wood. Same for solvents.

October 9, 2007, 07:31 AM	#19
allen820 Member Join Date: December 13, 2006 Location: Oak Ridge, TN Posts: 38	Wiping a stock or grip with an oilly rag, i.e. a rag which is just oilly (not oil soaked and wet!) should not hurt a thing. However, for cleaning and shining modern poly-coated stocks, spray a little Pledge on a clean cloth and wipe down the wood. Gets rid of dirt and finger prints (and oil from the above oilly rag treatment . . .) and really brings out the shine. Allen

October 9, 2007, 08:12 PM	#20
TexasFats Senior Member Join Date: June 12, 2007 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 130	The OP mentioned that the grips were on older S&W's. That means that they may well have had either a varnish or a linseed oil finish originally. In either case, stuff like Hoppe's or anything else that is petroleum based would be a bad idea. Petroleum based oils are much different than any of the oils used for finishes. New guns, with polyurethane or similar synthetic finishes may be a different matter, however. At least, that is my$0.02 worth. __________________ Gun laws are designed to extend and solidify the power of an elite over a peasantry. Sauron lives, and his orc minions are on the march.