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Old May 17, 2010, 02:40 PM   #1
rude robert
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.223 reloading dies which ones?

I have just the regular dies for .223. I noticed that there are dies with the tc type of crimp, what is that for? Can I use just the regular dies to reload for my ar15 thx robert
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Old May 17, 2010, 04:41 PM   #2
mrawesome22
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TC = Taper crimp. Your dies, if they are FL(full length) dies, will probably have a roll crimp. But, you probably won't even need a crimp at all.
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Old May 17, 2010, 05:17 PM   #3
steve4102
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Quote:
I have just the regular dies for .223.
Regular Full Length sizing or Regular Neck sizing?

Here is a good article on handloading for service rifles.
http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...sgunreload.cfm
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Old May 17, 2010, 08:08 PM   #4
Jim243
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Depends on rifle, use your standard 223 dies. If you encounter feed problems then go to a "RCBS X-Small Base Die" about $55.00.

Jim
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Old May 17, 2010, 08:39 PM   #5
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I've loaded thousands of rounds with both Lee and RCBS standard dies. I don't crimp. I have one of those Lee FCD dies, but never saw much need for it.
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Old May 17, 2010, 09:26 PM   #6
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I use Redding FL dies with the bullet seater set back for no taper crimp but I use a Lee FCD to put a good crimp on the M193 cannelured Lake City bullets I reload.


Lee, RCBS, Hornady, etc FL resize dies will ALL work just fine for AR15 uses. I use a mil-spec 5.56 NATO chamber in my BCM upper on my AR15 and the cases are resized just fine for it.

Honest opinion:
Get a Lee, RCBS, Hornady, Redding, whatever Full Length resize die but then make sure you buy a Hornady lock ring because RCBS, Lee, and Redding use HORRIBLE locking rings. Hornady makes the best locking rings PERIOD.

Cheap combo "that'll do, pig":
[1] Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 223 Remington
[3] Hornady Sure-Loc Die Locking Ring 7/8"-14 Thread

For the seating die you may want to pay attention. Some people will complain about the specs of each seater and how some bullets will not seat well or may get stuck between the seater mouth and the wall of the seater die.

Generally, just buy the Lee pacesetter die set and hornady lock rings. It works great in progressives or whatever you're using.
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Old May 17, 2010, 11:34 PM   #7
rude robert
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Hi, I posted related to this topic just now, I probably should have put it this thread instead. Anyways, I wanted to see how my first rounds fit the ar15, they feed okay but the problem is in extracting unfired rounds. I want to see how the rounds fed with a load (10 round california clip lol) so I chamber a round then pulled the charging handle back so I can chamber the next one. I wanted to test all ten rounds this way. I can pull the charging handle back but it takes way too much to do so in my opinion. Maybe this is normal for reloaded ar ammo but It doesn't seem right. I even went back to the factor ammo and I don't have that problem. I checked out the measurements and everything seem like factory. I even compared it to the factory round and it's the same. Any suggestions thx robert
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Old May 18, 2010, 12:02 AM   #8
Bamashooter
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i use lyman dies and havent had any issues so far. also use lee factory crimp die for a light crimp.
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Old May 18, 2010, 12:04 AM   #9
rude robert
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Darn it, I may have to go to a small size .223 dies according to the link posted above. My dies are made by rcbs which the article says that it should be okay, but it says that the rounds should fit in the chamber loosely. I don't under stand though, my measurements with my reloads are the same as the factory as far as i can tell. How much smaller with the small size dies make it?
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Old May 18, 2010, 12:04 AM   #10
Longdayjake
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I have noticed it being difficult to extract unfired rounds from ar15's. I think its just the nature of the beast. I use the RCBS small base die as well. Now, is it hard to extract factory brass too? It is for me.
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Old May 18, 2010, 12:15 AM   #11
rude robert
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sorry did u mean to ask me how hard it is to extract?
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Old May 18, 2010, 12:19 AM   #12
rude robert
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I reloaded more then I first thought. I hope i dont have to pull a hundred bullets
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Old May 18, 2010, 12:56 AM   #13
alfack
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Sometimes you have to crank the sizing die all the way down to the base plate, then add 1/2 turn, to get them to fully size.

Anyway, I suggest you invest in a case gauge. It really leaves no doubt if the round will chamber or not.
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Old May 18, 2010, 02:30 AM   #14
steve4102
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Quote:
Maybe this is normal for reloaded ar ammo but It doesn't seem right.
Correct, it Isn't right. Nine times out of nine when this happens it's a sizing issue. Usually nothing more than an improperly set up sizing die. You need to get the shoulder set back. Screw the sizing die into the press until it touches the shell holder, lower the ram and screw the die in another 1/4 turn, tighten the lock nut. Size a piece of fired brass, see if it chambers and extracts with ease. If so , seat a bullet(no powder,primer) and see if it chambers. If not your seating die may be set to low and applying an unwanted crimp thus buckling the case just a bit. Back it out of the press and reset the seating stem.
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Old May 19, 2010, 02:24 PM   #15
rude robert
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Hi Steve, I have tried the cam over process several times or the course of a day and half. I tried without a crimp even though it was lite crimp. At this point in time I have the small base dies on order. It seems that some chambers need this set up to work properly so I will try this. I guess it's better then getting my cases stuck in the chamber after it fires.
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Old May 19, 2010, 02:30 PM   #16
rude robert
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Despite the oft-repeated advice that autoloaders, pumpguns and lever-actions require small base dies, the Service Rifles may be the exception that proves the rule. While it’s true that all of these action types lack the powerful camming forces of a bolt-action, the more generous chamber dimensions common to most Service Rifles are normally compatible with standard dies. Please understand that this is a general statement, and that there are exceptions to this. The point is, you don’t need to automatically go to a small base die set. Most of the standard reloading dies produced by reputable firms, such as RCBS, will resize fired brass properly to work in these rifles.

taken from a link posted here thx
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Old May 19, 2010, 02:38 PM   #17
greco
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I use small base dies for 223 and 308. I think some of my rifles in those calibers have very tight chambers. But even with SB dies, you have to screw them down probperly like alfack said. I just got done pulling 150+ because I used too much crimp (won't use crimp again), and didn't screw the die in far enough for one batch. Live and learn...
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Old May 19, 2010, 02:52 PM   #18
rude robert
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yikes I made up my mind when I get mine im testing them in my ar to see how they chamber and extract.
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Old May 19, 2010, 08:06 PM   #19
greco
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smart move. nothing worse than whacking the puller. I just did 15 a day until I got tired of it, then just shot up the rest. They chambered fine, just would not extract without lots of energy.

From now on when I load a new caliber, I will load 10 first, then chamber and eject them. If they are OK, I will shoot them. THEN, if they are OK, I will go to work.
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Old May 19, 2010, 09:17 PM   #20
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I usually make one round and see if it fits in the case gauge, before making any more.

These are your friends, when it comes to making in spec ammo:

http://www.dillonprecision.com/conte.../25547/catid/3
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Old May 27, 2010, 01:27 PM   #21
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I really am enjoying my Redding type-S F/l die and turret bullet seater die.

The bushing die allows for neck tension adjustments because you can use various bushings to adjust the neck resizing.

Redding and Forster bullet seater dies have inline seating than aligns the bullet before it is seated resulting in better accuracy because the bullet and neck aren't jammed against each other.

The turret is easy to repeat if you are going back and forth between bullets or experimenting with different COL.
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