Grease for revolver

[kylewood]

Hi all. I normally lube my revolver internals with CLP or Rem Oil. Lately, I've been getting tired of oil constantly running out of it. Can someone recommend a real light grease? What about something like synthetic wheel bearing grease? Will it creep like non synthetic grease will? How about the gun butter brand grease? Thanks for any help.

Wood

[edward5759]

I like to use White Lithium grease.
If you are trying to smooth out an action without doing a full trigger job, try some white rubbing compound in the action and then work the action.
Wash it out then use the White Lithium grease!
white rubbing compound will remove little imperfections without removing any real material.
Ed

[Twinsig]

Gungrease or similar quality, also a syringe (non medical) but i use that on my autos, gets into the parts without full teardown of the frame.

[James K]

If the oil is running out of a gun, you are using too much oil. A revolver needs maybe 8-10 drops of oil in key places and that will last a long time. I don't recommend grease because many greases will harden over time and interfere with the mechanism and also because proper application of grease will require removal of the sideplate and partial disassembly, which should be done only if necessary.

Jim

[Scorch]

SuperLube is a very light synthetic grease, I use it on virtually all firearms when I reassemble them in our shop as well as on my own guns. I believe it is one of the best solutions for what you are talking about.

[Bill DeShivs]

Never, ever put rubbing or polishing compound in the action of a gun! It will ruin edges that should be sharp-making the gun dangerous.
It will also imbed itself in the metal and continue wearing the parts.

Try automotive lithium grease in your gun.

[Dfariswheel]

I also used Super Lube in customer guns and my own for many years.

Super Lube is sold in two major forms, a true grease and a "oil". The grease is a good thick grease, the oil is a thin grease-thick oil consistency that stays put.
It's a clear-white synthetic Teflon bearing lubricant that's good from -65 to +450

Either works very well in autos and revolvers because it won't run out, evaporate or dry out, sling off, or wick out.
I've opened up guns that were lubed with Super Lube as much as 10 years before and it was still present, still lubricating.

You can buy small oilers and small tubes of the grease at Midway, but the best deal is to buy cans of grease and a 4 ounce bottle of the oil direct from Synco:

http://www.super-lube.com/

Interestingly, they also sell a can of spray grease. It comes out of the can as a liquid and the carrier instantly evaporates, leaving a coat of grease slightly thicker than the oil.

[TXGunNut]

I'm a fan of Rig grease and my trusty toothpick applicator. Overlubing and abrasives are a big no-no. 4-5 little dots are about all my S&W's ever need. One on the rebound spring, another on the rebound slide, two more on the hammer and trigger pivot pins and sometimes another on the cylinder bearing surface.

[mete]

I've been using RIG for many years and I'm very happy with it !
Most people use too much lube !

[TXGunNut]

Still on my first jar, probably 15-20 yrs old.

[kraigwy]

I love RIG, perfect for covering the surface of any gun but I'm not putting any grease in the inside of a revolver. Oil works fine. If some runs out, not biggy, there is some that doesn't run out.

[James K]

I still don't recommend grease, though Dfariswheel's use on guns that he is working on would be OK. I just hate those threads that start "I took my Registered .357 Magnum apart to grease it and bent the sideplate and ruined the screws and broke the hammer and now I can't get it back together..."

Jim

[edward5759]

The nice thing about white rubbing compound is that it is non-embedding. It is used in JB Bore scrub, found out on a chromatography and mass spectrometry, It is used by a lot of different applications.
One of the applications is for high speed gyroscopes 100,000 rpm. It was used by smiths on Taurus guns without dismantling them leaving edges sharp and bearing surface smooth. Brown rubbing compound is a no

[edward5759]

I still use stones when doing action jobs but I have seen lots of the new guys using the white compound
Edward5759

[Bill DeShivs]

Sorry for the thread drift, but I feel this is important-

Any compound that will polish steel can imbed under pressure from other close-fitting steel parts. It will also imbed in aluminum.
This is not a concern with bore paste, as you arent shoving a tightly fitted steel slug down the barrel with the paste applied.
Again- don't use polishing compounds in an action. It's bad JuJu.

[mete]

Right on Bill ! Remember Mt St Helen ? That dust [pumice ] wore out guns and other things very rapidly !! Lube +abrasive = lapping compound !

[BRE346]

I did some research early on. Teflon and lithium greases rank high. I had a tube of white lithium I found at Sears. Any metal-to-metal slides get the white lithium, rotating parts get Remoil. I haven't found any wear where those are used.

Caveat: I've been in handguns only a year. I don't know nuthin'.

[Don P]

Hi all. I normally lube my revolver internals with CLP or Rem Oil. Lately, I've been getting tired of oil constantly running out of it.

Pehaps you are over oiling if its running out of places.

[jfruser]

Wood:

There are lots of greases (gun-specific or otherwise) up to the task, folks have posted above several options.

I have used white lithium grease, but did not like how it reacted over time (evaporated & gummed up over time in the heat) or in the cold (stiffened a bit). Regular applications for use in warm weather, it is just fine, though.

I currently favor this product:
http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/cont...x?S=Y&PN=05351


Here are the claims:

A specially developed synthetic grease with a high-tech formula for use in disc & drum brake systems. High temperature grease is plastic & rubber safe. Use on metal to metal contact points and sliding surfaces. Resists moisture and will not washout.

Also, the following caught my eye:

Evaporation Rate <1 (butyl acetate=1)
Working Temp -40 to 600°F intermittent

Doesn't evaporate quickly, stays soft when it gets cold, doesn't migrate, water won't displace it, and not too likely to react with any plastic, rubber, or wood (finishes). Oh, and it lubes metal-on-metal interfaces & comes in a handy tube which lasts a long time.

For my own part, I have embraced grease more over the years. I got suspicious that over-oiling might have caused some misfires (by wicking through the primer pocket) and my one titanium-content gun galls terribly when it is steel-on-ti and desperately needs a grease that stays put.

Here is another grease I have had good results with. It comes in a larger tub:
http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...c_grease.aspx#
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ntifier=934751


Frankly, despite my affection for Breakfree CLP and Hoppes #9, I have drifted more to using synthetic motor oils & auto greases.

[Harry Bonar]

Sir;
I like Rig!
Harry B.

[T. O'Heir]

"...getting tired of oil constantly running out of it..." Means you're using too much oil. Mind you, I've never used anything on the innards of any revolver.

[Bernie Lomax]

Eezox. That's what my revolver gets. It's a dry lube so it'll never run out of your gun. Also, as an added bonus, it's the absolute best preservative there is. Seriously, this stuff is like stainless steel in a can. Check this out:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html